I need to know what this part is called ASAP. I'm at work and apparently it came off. The picture is from my bosses identical truck. It appears to be a rubber sleeve plug with 2 clamps on a steel fuel line. Because that is what is leaking on the floor at the moment. Just bought this truck.

 

That would be your fuel bowl drain line, there's a lever behind the fuel bole that when open allows fuel to come out. There's re seal kit for that.

 

Is this expensive? Relatively simple to repair? Or damaging in any way?

 

Wow!! That engine needs removed, immediately! Or, ill just buy the truck as-is, ofcourse....😈
Actuate the yellow arm behind the fuel bowl and see I it closes the leak. Check out riffraff performance/diesel for the cabinet kit and start replacing orings

 

So yellow arm should be pointed towards engine oil fill point. When turned toward driver side of truck more fuel leaks out fast. Correct?

 

Is this the piece I need to replace?

 

Yes, there's 2 o rings behind the valve look into RiffRaffdiesel.com you will find everything OEM and upgraded parts for your 7.3 at a bargin.

 

Sweet thanks

 

Can a standard rubber o ring take their place until the good seals get here or is that inadvisable?

 

Viton is what most of our O-rings are made of, it is good for higher temps than butyl, another common material that O-rings are made of. Butyl is OK up to 250 degrees and Viton goes higher than that. In a pinch I wouldn't be afraid to use butyl for a while there but there is another issue...the dimensions of the O-rings. The two that seat against the bowl are small OD but real thick rings (I don't know what that dimension would be called) so you might have a hard time finding the size that you need.

 

I'm just waiting for the new seals to come from Riffraff. Another question though, what causes a truck to always run really cool? As in the temp gauge stays at the bottom of the operating level. Or is there a bad sensor/gauge. The truck had a diagnosis and code scan before I purchased it.

 

If the sensor and gauge aren't lying, then always cold would be a stuck open or missing thermostat. To check this, when it should be warmed up, check the heater hoses and see if you get heat. These trucks offer great heat, so if there's heat, then your sensor's bad or there's build-up or such blocking the water from getting to it. Or you might have a bad gauge.

Don't try this until someone else verifies it, but to test the gauge I would guess that if you applied 12Vdc directly to the gauge wires at the sensor, you should get full deflection. If I get a chance I'll measure the voltage on my truck this afternoon to figure out how it works.

EDIT: Now that I think about it, I'm certain I'm wrong here. Coolant temp is monitored by the PCM, so it's probably either a 4-20mA or 0-5Vdc circuit, which are more common for digital inputs. But now I'm curious...

 

Running cool can't hurt anything though correct? My tractor does the same thing and I am replacing the thermostat and the sensor. I did have the air intake sensor I think it was replaced before buying the truck.

 

Do you have an IR thermometer by any chance? If you do shoot your hoses and radiator when 'warm' and see what kind of readings you get. That would give you an idea of what direction you should go. If you don't have one they are nice to have, you can check brakes, bearings and more for excess heat now and then to insure that things are running properly.

 

I do actually.