So i got the XFR ball joints and the paper show torque lower to 35 lbs then upper to 70 then back to lower to 150.

On the 2wd there is only one BJ that has a nut on it the lower. the upper is a clamp type feature.

so what is the correct way to do this and what is torque for upper clamp bolt.

 

Well, your box says Dodge Ram Straight Axle Ball joint torque sequence. So you sure you have the right ones??

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/898909-changing-2wd-ball-joints-for-dummies.html

torque specs in post #4 in that thread^

 

I thought that was odd as well but according to XRF website and the numbers on the boxes i got matched so I guess it correct.. seems to be thus far. I did see the dodge info so might have to give a call to them on Monday to see for fricken sure. Kinda disappointed in the instructions they sent.

I appears to be some generic thing they send with BJ's.

I bought BJ's for a 2003 ford f-250 RWD so the instruction should be specific to that or those vehicles or at least have the info on website. sorta lame in this day and age.

 

cool deal cousin carl.. just what i needed..

your other cousin carl..

do have a question on wheel bearing nut install.. the sheet says to rotate wheel and torque to 21 ft lbs then to back off till loose, spin wheel again and retorque to 18 in lbs. I have read other stuff that says after the first torque to loosen nut and not spin wheel and to hand/finger tighten nut to get cotter pin in through castellated nut and you are good to go. not sure which way to go.

 

I did the second torque while spinning my wheel (not the finger tightening thing) then moved the nut to match the closest notches to the cotter pin hole.

 

DO NOT USE ft-lbs when tightening up your spindle nut, unless you use only 1 ft-lb (same as 12 inch-lbs). Too much torque and you'll dimple the inside of your bearing race! Everything I've ever found says that you should use about 6-8 inch-lbs at the final tightening, but that's really hard to do unless you go out and buy a high-dollar low torque wrench. Below is how I've ended up addressing the issue using other "best practice" types of information from old timers.

- Slowly tighten the spindle nut while spinning the wheel until the wheel will not spin. -
- Back off half a turn on the nut without touching the wheel, and then finger tighten the nut.
- Spin the wheel without moving the nut.
- Let the wheel stop spinning, and match up your nut cap notch with the cotter pin hole in the spindle... just make sure that the wheel spins freely by hand afterwards.
- install the grease cap and then the center cover

 

yeah that is the way i learned as well.. I did not tighten till it stopped spinning I used a good size crescent wrench on the nut and got it real tight with out really smaking on it. then stopped turning the wheel and loosen the nut to loose and then back to finger tight, align the castle nut with hole and slide cotter pin in , give slight bend and reinstall grease cap.