I realize that tenacity is probably the only thing I need, but I wondered if anyone had any quick tips before I go at it again....

1992 F-150 XLT 4x4

I was trying to replace my brake shoes whis weekend, and I was having a hell of a time getting the drum off. I removed that little plug on the inside of the hub and turned the adjusting screw many many many times and still couldn't get the thing to budge. I am almost 100% certain I am turning that thing the right way, rotating it down (while looking at it from the inside, right side up). I did check to make sure the parking brake was not engaged...I wouldn't put that kind of thing past me!

Any thoughts? They aren't seized or anything...I drove the darn thing to work today...

thanks,

Bryan

 

Jack it it and block the front wheels. keep the parking brake off and the tranny in neutral. Can you turn the drum by hand or with a lever? it should turn but may be a bit tight. You probably will hear some shssssing sound as the drum turns and occasionally contacts the shoes.

It if won't turn at all then maybe the adjust was turned the wrong way. If you turn it long enough the adjuster should even get wiggly and maybe even fall out of its slot. Then you can be sure the shoes are not contacting the drum unless there is a problem. What it may take is some steady whacking with a hammer around the rim. You might also need to use a propane torch to heat the drum where it fits around the axle. Sometimes the hub gets stuck due to rust, tight fit, whatever and heat and whacking is what it takes. Or if you have a brake drum puller, have at it.

Usually gentle whacking is all that is needed, you don't want to crack or make a rim out of round.

When you reinstall, you should remove all rust on the contact surfaces and maybe put in a little antisieze on the axle hub where the face will contact the drum surface.

Good Luck,

Jim Henderson

 

I just did mine and all I needed was to heat the drum with apropane torch around the hub center in between the studs and it popped loose all by it'self. Make sure the ajuster is backed off though because if ther is a lip on the edge of the drum it will hang up and cool down before you can get it off. Just reheat it again after backing the slack sjuster off and Robert's your fathers brother! (bobs your uncle)

 

Thanks for the tips. WD-40, blow torch, and determination got those suckers off. They were rusted pretty solid. ....And after all the work, the stupid shoes were fine! You can bet your butt I changed them anyway after all the work getting the drums off!

There sure is something satisfying about using a blow torch and a hammer when working on something! (insert Tim Allen bark here)

Bryan