I have a 2000 F350 4X4 with a V10. I am about to give up trying to make the V10 run right. It pings under a slight load, even running empty pulling a slight hill. It seems to have a small miss in it all the time that really shows up pulling a load.

I have read many many threads about the problems with these engines and have done most of the suggestions made to fix these problems with no positive results yet. I have removed the cat, check the vacuum lines for leaks, replaced the plugs, replaced the coils, replaced the injectors, replaced O2 sensors, cleaned the MAF sensor (with the proper cleaner), the list goes on and on. The engine is not throwing any codes at all. I even bought a code reader just for this truck just so I could check for codes. I checked with the engine off, idling, driving empty, driving loaded, around town, on the highway, under every situation I could think of and still no codes.

My next step for this V10 is to pull the intake, replace the knock sensor and the intake manifold gasket. IF I were to go this route, engine has 143,000 miles on it, I feel like I should replace the timing chains and all related equipment.

My question is, is it worth spending this kind of on money on a "maybe" fix? I priced the parts needed on line and they will run in the neighborhood of $700.00 for what I know I will need off the top of my head. Your input would be appreciated.

The other option I am considering is swapping engines IF there is one that will work. I am thinking about a carbureted 460 with a MSD ignition. I know the gas mileage of a 460 sucks but then so does the V10 gas mileage. My only concern is will the 460 bolt up to the tranny that's in my truck now? The only numbers I can find on the transmission are: F81A-7003-FE 1317050015 the transfer case is married to the transmission and the numbers on it are: New Process Gear Model 271. I can move motor mounts if I need to so that won't be a problem. I am sure there will be obstacles with brackets for A/C, Alt., power steering pump, etc. but I believe I can handle these also.

Does any one know if there is a 460 or equivalent engine that will bolt up to the transmission I have? I have read several good posts in different thread about building 460s for power with small modifications is the reason I am looking at the 460. Thank you for your input and advice it is greatly appreciated.

 

I had alot of pinging as well and did all of the usual checks/cleaning and such. The last I tried was the Seafoam intake treatment. It is a spray can with a nozzle to put into the throttle body. It can be done with 1 person, but recommend 2 people. After the 2nd can, the pinging is all but gone. It will do it every now and again, but nowhere like it used to.

 

Thank you sir, that's one thing I haven't tried, never heard of this. I am guessing I can pick up some of this at a auto parts store. I hope you and yours have a Happy Thanksgiving.

 

have you replaced the fuel pressure regulator on the back of the intake. i had a problem with my v10 i had a lack of power while pulling hills and i would get a pretty bad spark knock. replaced the regulator and it was a whole new truck

 

Did you purchase this vehicle with the problem already going on? Or, have you owned it a while and it's only recently that it's developed the issue?

 

Thank you sir, no I haven't replaced the fuel pressure regulator I will definitely have to check into that.

I purchased the truck used in 2006 and it was running fine when I bought it. This problem started approximately 2 - 2 1/2 years ago. At first it was occasional but in last 6 months or so it has gotten considerably worse. I always run non ethanol fuel and sea foam 3 to 4 times a year. It was a really strong truck until about 6 months ago and now I have to really wind the gears out to get any kind of load rolling. Thank you sir

 

I sense your deep frustration with the pinging, but if you clear your mind you’ll realize that a 460 swap is a very extreme solution to your problem.

Focus us on the pinging (again). It sounds like you’ve put a lot of time and treasure into this already. But just start over- Get your vitals : fuel/spark/compression.

Fuel pressure is easy to check. And the regulator like the other guy suggested. And what about the TYPE of fuel you use- is it a good brand from a reputable station? You mention non-ethanol but that’s not specific enough. Maybe it’s 85 octane for all we know. Empty your tank and put in some 89 or higher. Drive a few hundred miles and report back.

Compression would be next. Also while you do this maybe buy a $30 scope and look inside the cylinders. See if there’s and carbon buildup or other problems.

Check spark plugs. Even if you changed them recently. If they’re all 10,000 miles old then they should all be exactly the same if you take them out now and have a look.

It could be unrelated to the engine. Have you put some 40” mudders on there? Have you negelected your tires and now they’re all at 26psi instead of 60 or 80? Do you have a brake dragging? Theres more to do but im out of time.

I say lose lose the engine swap idea and fix what you have. It’s cheaper to keep her.

 

If you do end up taking the intake off, you may find a good bit of gunk built up inside the intake and throttle body. The gunk built up on mine was unbelievable. It wouldn't hurt to take a look in there.

 

Thank you for your input gentlemen it is greatly appreciated.
Yes this has become very frustrating but I am not 100% sold on an engine swap. This is why I like to come to FTE for advice from fellow Ford lovers. You gentlemen have a lot of knowledge and I appreciate you sharing it with me. Though it is an extreme solution it would be a solution. I think a 460 would power this truck with no problem but is it worth it. I have spent a lot of money and time trying to fix this engine with more time and money to be spent if I continue trying to fix the V10. BUT if I can fix it then I'll have a very vast knowledge about this engine. I am going to try what you gentlemen have recommended and if I can get just a small amount of improvement I will fell a lot better about continuing with the V10.

Fuel...Shell brand fuel, only non ethanol kind we have around here....it is 85 octane so I will change to higher octane.

I can run a compression check soon. Where can I buy one of these $30.00 scopes? Harbor Freight? Suggestions appreciated.

I will check the plugs when I do the compression test and look in the cylinders with the scope.

Tires are stock size, I do not have a lift kit on it and the western hauler bed it came with won't allow bigger tires, not enough room. Recommended tire pressure is 68 psi and I check it monthly so it is good. I don't believe there is any brake drag either because I am able to put my hands on the rotors after driving the truck. They are warmer but not hot, but I have not checked them with a temp. gun.

Again I honestly thank you for your input gentlemen and please keep it coming. If I am going to fix this engine I am going to need all the direction I can get from all of you gentlemen.

Happy Thanksgiving to you and yours.

 

I just had another thought. My truck will throw a code without lighting the check engine light. If you hire somebody who really knows how to run their test equipment to test your truck and advise you, it will be money well spent.

 

85 octane?!
good ness man! Fix that first. What location are you that they even sell that fuel? Backwoods of Tennessee?

How many miles do you drive drive per day/week?
And how full is your tank right now? If you’re at half tank I suggest you fill it with 93; thatll net you about 89octane as they mix in your tank.

I wouldnt run 85 octane in a lawn mower.

 

I would also try another brand of gas both modular motors I’ve had in different trucks both hated shell gas consistently 1.5-2 mpg lower with shell gas. They sell 85 octante in higher altitude locations but defiantly try minimum of 87 octane gas.

 

I will have to check into that and see if I can get someone else to run a check on it for me. My check engine light works, comes on when I crank the truck, but that's the only time it comes on. I know of one shop that will run a check for $100.00, a little steep IMO but maybe I can learn something that way.

My bad buddy it's 87 octane not 85 octane.
Backwoods Tennessee LOL no sir it's backwoods Arkansas.....Texarkana to be exact.

I probably average between 100 and 150 miles a week.
Tank is about 3/4 full. I will top it off tomorrow with the 93 and start running the 93 and see if that helps. Might try a bottle of octane booster also if that will help any.

I actually repair lawn mowers as a part time job. I have no doubt you wouldn't run 85 octane in a mower, you are to intelligent for that. But you would be surprised what people WILL TRY to run in a mower.

I really wish I could change brands of fuel but unfortunately that's not really an option for me. There are only 4 places that sell the non ethanol fuel in my area. 1 of the 4 places claims non ethanol but it has been tested by 2 different people and they both came up with 15% ethanol in their fuel. 2 of the 4 places are little mom and pop type places and their fuel is non ethanol but if you buy fuel there make sure you have a good supply of fuel filters, it takes about 1 filter per tank to catch the trash. I hate that but it is what it is. The shell fuel is actually sold through ez mart C stores but it is true non ethanol and they have a large volume turn over so it is fresh fuel. Basically the only option I have is go to the highest octane shell gas I can buy.

Again I thank you gentlemen for your input please keep it coming. I hope you all had a blessed Thanksgiving.

 

I was being facetious about the lawn mower thing but that’s funny that I made that comment while you literally DO work on them.
I’d love to hear some oddball fuels you known people to try.

Your gas station situation sounds difficult. But man why are you insisting on ethanol free?

I say: next time you’re in the “big city” you should hit up a top tier gas station and buy 10 gallons of fresh 89 octane.

Then run your truck as empty as possible. Literally- run it til it dies.
Put in the 10 gallons of top tier fuel and drive directly to the city again and fill up your truck with the same fuel.

Drive to to the nearest restaurant and disconnect your battery in the parking lot. Push the brake pedal 3-5 times (maybe a wives tale- uncertain).

enjoy your meal then reconnect the battery and drive home. Drive very gingerly like an old grandma.

After 100 miles or so, drive like normal.

Report back.

 

I don't want to hijack this thread but 85 octane is the standard fuel once you get above 4 or 5 thousand feet elevation. My parents live at 5000' and I always have to be mindful of that when filling the tank for a trip from there back to home (we live at 2500').