So I tow a 13-14k competitive BBQ rig all over. I bought my 6.0 excursion specifically to tow my cook rig. It's not only pavement/ road towing but also some off road field and grassy area positioning of the trailer. I've already installed the ATS spring upgrade with Timbren's to handle the trailer and the 6.0 is being bulletproofed this week. The things I'm considering now (and are looking for opinions on) are:

Some type of rear locker - I'm leaning toward an Eaton Electric. The X has a factory limited slip but even with 4WD engaged it's sometimes difficult to get the trailer moving when it's been sitting in a wet field for 2 days.

08 tow mirrors - I've got a set of OEM manual extend / fold on my V10 but would like electric extend fold on the 6.0. Are any of the aftermarket replacements any good or should I bite the bullet and pay the big bucks for OEM's?

Opinions / thoughts and suggestions welcome.

 

The Eaton is a good unit for a daily and should serve you well, knowing it's weakness will help keep you from breaking it.

Avoid "crashing" it by locking it before you are stuck and use low initial throttle in reverse until it locks.

To lock the mechanism going forward it takes 120* of axle rotation for the unit to lock. If you are already stuck and are trying to throttle out causing wheel spin during the lock cycle it will crash the internal mechanics and break.

Also ( and this is its biggest weakness ) even when you are locked and going forward, if you have to back up the unit unlocks and needs 240* of axle rotation to relock in the reverse direction.

If these constraints don't work for the conditions you expect to see then consider the ARB air locker. It doesn't need any considerations for useing it just flip the switch and hammer it, or flip the switch in the middle of being hammered, it doesn't much care.

 

1aauto has aftermarket 08 style mirrors with power fold for use on earlier years. I've had 2 sets on 2 different vehicles and they're great.

 

1aauto has a couple of different versions. Is one better than the other?

 

They basically let you pick and choose what features you want. With or without marker/blinker lights. Chrome caps or paint to match caps, or just black caps. with or without power fold. etc.

If you just want the ones with all the bangs and whistles I can find the model # for you.

 

Damn this was some detailed, excellent information on the two different products, helping a person choose.

Reps sent.

Stewart

 

Sounds like the ARB unit would be better suited for my application. Thanks for the detailed ainfo

 

Other option to consider for lockers is the front end. You already have a LSD in the back. The front Dana 60 is less expensive to add a locker than the 10.5, easier, and then you'd have a locked front and LSD rear. For your use, get a lunch box locker (Spartan/lock right/etc) in the front. ~$300, do it yourself, no adverse handling issues, no extra air or electric circuits, and always available. Works great in snow/sand/mud and provides full locked action forward and reverse. The "hard core" offroaders will scoff at the lock right and say "it's only as strong as the factory carrier" - but when was the last time you broke a factory carrier? I agree - never. Save $2k in parts and labor (well, save it to put into the 6.0)

 

PowerTrax makes the lock rite for the Excursion.

I agree it would be a good choice for the front but pretty miserable for the rear on a daily driver.

Fwiw, I've broken a few and the failure point was the pin and spring, they can be rebuilt as long as the pin bore doesn't get wallowed out.

 

Not sure if you know this or not, the front 4x4 axle on an excursion is a Dana 50 for all years made.

 

Thanks for the backup! I stand upgraded. (Original discussion still applies)

 

Does the Powertrax Lockrite require wheel spin to engage? I'm obviously not rock climbing but when these trailers have been sitting on soft ground I need engagement without requiring wheel spin both Reverse and forward which is why the Eaton won't work. Is there any disadvantage to having an ARB unit in the rear and a Powertrax up front? I'm guessing that as long as the front hubs are unlocked even with a locker the front will still act like an open differential.

 

Lock right (style) does not require movement to engage. It is actually always engaged, and only opens when a wheel spins faster than the other (such as the outside tire in a turn). As long as your hubs are locked, it is working. Big benefit is it won't adversely affect your steering since it can unlock the faster wheel. If you unlock the hubs, you are in 2WD, so front diff doesn't matter anyway.
I ran a detroit locker in the rear of my 03 F350 SRW 6.0 for years and would recommend it to anyone. With the size of the truck it never gave me any problems on the street and was always there for me offroad. Again, no switches, wiring or air to worry about. I installed an ARB in the front axle, though I found I almost never had to use it because of the detroit in the rear. Now, I did both because I already had to tear the front and rear apart to install new gears. If I didn't have to change gears, I probably would have just gone with the lock right up front.

 

I just had a d60 swapped to my front and added an ARB Locker and the rear gone thru with a new Yukon Duragrip setup inatalled.

At the same time, both received 4.30 gears. Mine is an 05 6.0 with 35" tires.

I did it for better gearing for towing our 9500 lb enclosed 28' trailer.


Pirate, would this be a suitable rear option for him? (I admittedly don't know how the rear works)