Are exhaust brakes necessary or just nice to have?
#1
Are exhaust brakes necessary or just nice to have?
As you can tell im new to this towing a 5'er. Buddy of mine insists that im going to be pushed to almost runaway mode going down the grade to the desert. Seems like i can just put the diesel in the appropaite gear and let the 6 speed std. Trans do its thing. Am i missing something here? That with good trailer brakes should do it? I mean guys are going up and down that grade every day with out incident. Of course my buddy has the exact same truck and has never pulled a thing with it so is he bolwing smoke or is an exhaust brake something i should be thinking about?
#2
Nice to have, but not required.
Tell your buddy that people with trucks like yours and mine have been towing heavy all across this country for a long time and we do just fine. Mind you, make sure all of your brakes are operating properly including the trailer.
When I pull over the Rocky Mountains and some of the ranges in ID and MT I use my transmission (just like yours) more than the brakes.
Don't waste your time or money on an exhaust brake mod. Just don't drive beyond your means when traveling.
I used to tow a 10K lbs travel trailer, now I tow the 5th wheel in my signature. There are guys towing 20K lbs or more with these trucks and do just fine. Again, don't drive beyond your means or ability.
Tell your buddy that people with trucks like yours and mine have been towing heavy all across this country for a long time and we do just fine. Mind you, make sure all of your brakes are operating properly including the trailer.
When I pull over the Rocky Mountains and some of the ranges in ID and MT I use my transmission (just like yours) more than the brakes.
Don't waste your time or money on an exhaust brake mod. Just don't drive beyond your means when traveling.
I used to tow a 10K lbs travel trailer, now I tow the 5th wheel in my signature. There are guys towing 20K lbs or more with these trucks and do just fine. Again, don't drive beyond your means or ability.
#3
My 2c, yes it's nice to have & definitely takes some strain from the service brakes. The key to negotiating long steep descents is starting the descent at the correct speed or less, don't let it build then have to slow it down. I have a DP tuner with the deceleration tune & I love it, it uses the EBPV as the exhaust brake but you can just operate it with a switch, there are threads about how to do it along with TCLU for max effect.
#4
Wonderful, thats what i was hoping to hear. He gets a bit lofty at times so ive learned to double check a lot of what he says. Now ican relax and focus on other life threating issues! Lol hoping to do a Thanksgiving run and try it all out. Im sure i will be able to discuss things more intelligently with some experience under the belt. Thanks
#5
#6
Like Shovelheadrob said, the best thing you can do is set yourself up for success by cresting the grade at the appropriate/safe speed. When you are downshifting to with the ZF6 to help control your speed, try to rev match or bring your speed low enough so that the RPM's don't shoot up.
When descending a long grade and towing heavy, I prefer for the truck to be in 4th and sometimes 3rd if required. I have run down hundreds of grades where I just keep my foot over the brake and let the truck do its thing with gravity. If you get to the bottom and you feel you were going to fast, start the next grade slower. Go as fast or as slow as you are comfortable with and the truck can handle.
I have slotted/drilled rotors and Hawk LTS pads on my truck and have had zero issues with grades, up or down with my 20 year old truck. I may be doing 60 MPH up a grade instead of 75 MPH when towing heavy like some of these fellas, but I am not in a race when I am towing.
Your truck is more than capable and you should tell your friend to stop reporting fake news!
When descending a long grade and towing heavy, I prefer for the truck to be in 4th and sometimes 3rd if required. I have run down hundreds of grades where I just keep my foot over the brake and let the truck do its thing with gravity. If you get to the bottom and you feel you were going to fast, start the next grade slower. Go as fast or as slow as you are comfortable with and the truck can handle.
I have slotted/drilled rotors and Hawk LTS pads on my truck and have had zero issues with grades, up or down with my 20 year old truck. I may be doing 60 MPH up a grade instead of 75 MPH when towing heavy like some of these fellas, but I am not in a race when I am towing.
Your truck is more than capable and you should tell your friend to stop reporting fake news!
#7
This makes total since! Thanks again... He's a great guy, he just lives in a perfect world. One much different than I! LOL
I just looked at the info. Tags on the trailer and un like the paperwork its calling it a 92 not a 93. If i go to the spec sheet on line ti says it weighs 4800 lbs. where the 93 claims 5300 lbs. as mentioned either way im going to be just fine. If the thing wasnt in such good shape for its age id probably go buy a newer heavier unit. For as much use as its going to get i cant justify it. It was only used about 5 times in all these years!
I just looked at the info. Tags on the trailer and un like the paperwork its calling it a 92 not a 93. If i go to the spec sheet on line ti says it weighs 4800 lbs. where the 93 claims 5300 lbs. as mentioned either way im going to be just fine. If the thing wasnt in such good shape for its age id probably go buy a newer heavier unit. For as much use as its going to get i cant justify it. It was only used about 5 times in all these years!
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#8
Join Date: Oct 2015
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As others have said, the exhaust brake is a nice to have feature but if you don't already have it there is no way I would put even two brain cells toward adding it.
My toy hauler has a GVWR of 11k and I do use the exhaust brake when coming down passes in the Rocky Mountains. The diesel engine itself is pretty stout and does a decent job of slowing things down. I rarely have to touch my brakes.
My toy hauler has a GVWR of 11k and I do use the exhaust brake when coming down passes in the Rocky Mountains. The diesel engine itself is pretty stout and does a decent job of slowing things down. I rarely have to touch my brakes.
#11
Well it sounds like the consensus is " Not Needed". To be honest out of San Diego to the desert floor is quite a grade on hwy 8. But most likley the most this truck will see with me in it. Seems like an un necessary investment for such seldom use. As mentioned i will probably look back at this thread after Thanksgiving and be embarrased for even asking. Thanks again guys.
#12
As you can tell im new to this towing a 5'er. Buddy of mine insists that im going to be pushed to almost runaway mode going down the grade to the desert. Seems like i can just put the diesel in the appropaite gear and let the 6 speed std. Trans do its thing. Am i missing something here? That with good trailer brakes should do it? I mean guys are going up and down that grade every day with out incident. Of course my buddy has the exact same truck and has never pulled a thing with it so is he bolwing smoke or is an exhaust brake something i should be thinking about?
This is the old truckers formula.
#13
That would be a good rule of thumb coming out of thr desert not going the other way. It about a 30 mile gradual incline to the rim then a very quick descent to the desert floor in just 12 miles. I just looked it up and its a 6% grade. A runaway truck trap down the hill at the 5 mile mark. 6% is probably nothing to some of you guys... So what is the steepest you guys have driven down pulling your rigs?
#14
That would be a good rule of thumb coming out of thr desert not going the other way. It about a 30 mile gradual incline to the rim then a very quick descent to the desert floor in just 12 miles. I just looked it up and its a 6% grade. A runaway truck trap down the hill at the 5 mile mark. 6% is probably nothing to some of you guys... So what is the steepest you guys have driven down pulling your rigs?
Also, since this is an interstate highway, there is likely not a stop sign/signal or very sharp curve at the bottom of the hill, so that gives one a lot more leeway.
Use discretion to start, then proceed with what your level of comfort allows.
This will likely NOT happen on the open freeway........
A 6% grade on an open highway is a lot different than a 6% grade like Davis Dam hill dropping into Bullhead City/Laughlin from the AZ side where there is both a fairly sharp curve AND a stop light right at the bottom of the hill.
Also a 6% grade with no curves is a lot different that a 6% grade with twisties.
Last edited by Desert Don; 11-04-2017 at 08:41 AM. Reason: Add comment.
#15
I have driven 5million over the road mile in semi's for 46 years, a lot of them did not have an engine brake. Given my druthers I much prefer having one. Just remember that an engine brake can fail so even with one you still need to control your downgrade speed to a level that brakes alone can control it, never go down the other side faster than you than you climbed it, if you keep your speed in control you will not have any problems. Also if you have to use your brakes, don't pump them an easier steady push is much better. I have seen brake fires on trucks where the driver pumped them, they got hot and when released the gap between the pad or shoe and drum or rotor allowed enough oxygen in to have a flash fire. Keep your speed down steady moderate braking when needed and you will be fine, with or without a "Jake brake".