Ideas on problems starting?
#466
Followed up with engine builder today, had an interesting take on the coil/ignition module. He said very rarely he uses factory ds2 boxes on anything above stock, simply because an aftermarket coil is useless because of the factory “driver” behind it. He said to take full advantage of the system it was an option he recommended to step up to a msd box. By doing so you can take full advantage of all the features an upgraded coil can advertise. Also you have the ability to retard spark feature at starting. It’s a viable option I must agree.
essentially I am in the boat where I’m not sure what caused it to not give me grief this weekend. Do I stick a fork in it and says it’s fixed?
essentially I am in the boat where I’m not sure what caused it to not give me grief this weekend. Do I stick a fork in it and says it’s fixed?
#467
The DSII ignition system is a good one when everything is working right from the ICM to the distributor. The ICM retards ignition spark when starting, the stator/reluctor, if in good shape and you have 0.018" clearance between the two, work well together.
There's no problem running the stock DSII on a "built" engine. It provides enough spark for any occasion. My opinion on the MSD stuff, et al, is it's a waste of dollars unless you're turning 7-8K RPM constantly...as in at the track.
Me? I have an HEI distributor not because the DSII wasn't working well, because it was, its because the HEI cleans up a lot of wiring the DSII has.
If all the connections between the two are clean and snug things are hunky-dory.
If you haven't done the blinking test light deal yet and are relying on the working tach for your ICM/stator results, well, ok......but I'm confused as to how the tach would work if your engine won't turn over at speed.
I would still do the blink test....but that's just me.
Just my opinion on your coil but it's VERY borderline....I would replace it to be sure.
Remember - you still have a ballast resistor wire that's history.
EDIT: Another thought on "slow cranking:" I would tend to agree with the others that indicated a "tight" engine/timing...and mebbe not enough poop - amperage wise - getting to the starter.
There's no problem running the stock DSII on a "built" engine. It provides enough spark for any occasion. My opinion on the MSD stuff, et al, is it's a waste of dollars unless you're turning 7-8K RPM constantly...as in at the track.
Me? I have an HEI distributor not because the DSII wasn't working well, because it was, its because the HEI cleans up a lot of wiring the DSII has.
If all the connections between the two are clean and snug things are hunky-dory.
If you haven't done the blinking test light deal yet and are relying on the working tach for your ICM/stator results, well, ok......but I'm confused as to how the tach would work if your engine won't turn over at speed.
I would still do the blink test....but that's just me.
Just my opinion on your coil but it's VERY borderline....I would replace it to be sure.
Remember - you still have a ballast resistor wire that's history.
EDIT: Another thought on "slow cranking:" I would tend to agree with the others that indicated a "tight" engine/timing...and mebbe not enough poop - amperage wise - getting to the starter.
#468
Um, you may want to go back a couple of years in this thread, to post #311. I had thought the same thing about the timing, but apparently it's not true:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post17731499
Back to the MSD idea, that may be a good one, if indeed it actually retards the timing during start. That should hopefully give you the reserve you need for reliable cranking. Is it a plug & play system, or is new wiring required?
#469
Um, you may want to go back a couple of years in this thread, to post #311. I had thought the same thing about the timing, but apparently it's not true:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post17731499
Back to the MSD idea, that may be a good one, if indeed it actually retards the timing during start. That should hopefully give you the reserve you need for reliable cranking. Is it a plug & play system, or is new wiring required?
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post17731499
Back to the MSD idea, that may be a good one, if indeed it actually retards the timing during start. That should hopefully give you the reserve you need for reliable cranking. Is it a plug & play system, or is new wiring required?
I’m sure associated wiring is needed, but my engine builder is using the msd box with stock coils and ds2 dizzy. My coil seems pooping out, like I said, I’m not sure if these conditions are related, but it still seems/seemed to be wiring related. I’ll cobtibue testing on the other thread I started.
#470
Any updates? I wonder if the starter misengagement is a common problem with this type of starter. The engagement mechanism is different with this style, so maybe it doesn't line itself up with the flywheel teeth as easily as a direct drive starter?
Similar problem in this new thread, although he has you beat on the number of starters installed:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...rter-help.html
#471
#472
Did you see this, from another current thread?:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post17774330
The link in that post has some instructions about taking a measurement and possibly adding a shim. Maybe your starter's drive gear is extending too far and bottoming out. That might explain the noise and some shimming could take care of it.
#473
Interesting theory, didn’t see how exactly it was measured, just said “without measuring” he added the shim. Surely ford wouldn’t make that mistake? I’m almost willing to accept it, as it doesn’t have the “other” issue as of now. I’m going to change back to 87 octane this week and see if it comes back.
#474
Agreed, those instructions were poorly written. It wasn’t super clear what was to be measured.
Does your noisy, grinding starter have a shoulder on the drive gear? In other words, if it stuck out too far, is there a shoulder that would rub against the engine side of the flywheel ring gear?
If so, pull the starter and put some paint on the shoulder. Let the paint dry, reinstall the starter, and then try it a few times until you hear the grinding again. Pull the starter and if the paint is gone, you’ve found the source of the grinding.
#475
And....back from the dead. The past 6 months I was running a Frankenstein parts store starter (motorcraft unit won’t engage properly) and the motorcraft solenoid mounted to it. Worked for 6 months when all of a sudden....bang. The whole nose come snapped off. Put parts store starter back together as original and was told this was the last time they’ll allow warranty exchange on a lifetime warranty starter. I believe I’ve gone through 4 or 5 of their flavor. First couple days, no issues, now, I can tell the starter is slowly dying as the hard crank becomes more and more frequent. I’m at a loss. I’m just stumped out of my mind.
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