Yea I wouldn't use LED's if I lived where it snowed. I'm trying to find a video that show cases the bulbs you linked, I think that the pics they show don't show the true output of the bulbs.

 

ZombieSlayer: Thanks let me know if you find something. The more I have looked at these projector type housings, the more I am coming to believe that their entire "function" is merely cosmetic. I.e., to provide that "cool" halo look. I have no interest in cosmetics, I just want simultaneous high beam and low beam when on high beam.

 

In another thread Redark1 posted the following link:

https://www.tomsbroncoparts.com/prod...ord-bronco-new

This is what it says:

"NOTE: Our headlight harness includes a pre-installed diode that allows the high and low beams to emit light at the same time when the brights are turned on. Should you need to disable this feature, simply remove the diode from the wiring harness."

But the wiring harness is for the 1966-77 Ford Bronco. Did those model years use the two filament single 9007 halogen bulb per side (which is what the 92-96 Bronco's use)?

I was told (you can read it in my link to the other thread above) that if I set up the wiring (I think I would use a third relay rather than a diode to light the low beams when the high beams are lit) that both lit at the same time would overheat the bulb causing the housing to melt or even a fire. If I upgrade the wire gauge and add fuses to the wiring on my existing relay upgrade, I can't see a wire fire starting, but it is conceivable that having both filaments in the single 9007 bulb both burning for a long time could create too much heat resulting in the headlight housing melting or a fire. I don't really know what would happen, but I am reluctant to try it unless someone else has already done it with success.

 

the early bronco used round glass headlights.

as for overheating its possible, but if your driving the air over the housings cool them. starting a fire i don't think so but time would tell. melting the housing might be a possibility. really think the heat will affect the bulb first but that my personal opinion.

the after market housings with 2 headlights might be the way to go but not for sure.

im getting ready to install led headlights to try them along with new clear headlight housings.

 

I haven't been able to find housings with 2 headlights for halogen. So if you come across any, please post them up!

Also regardless please post up here or in your own thread if you prefer, what you do regarding your headlights.

 

Tim, why not add an extra set of lights switched; and I can help you wire them as they come on when your high beams are activated? Heat created by both filaments being activated together is great, bulb life is decreased and as I mentioned earlier they are not made for this .TR

 

Black Ford XLT: I appreciate your suggestion and your offer to help, and I may take you up on your offer if I cannot find/make what I want in the existing headlight housing area.

I am in California where freedom is nonexistent and especially in the South Lake Tahoe area the PD pulls you over for light violations as an excuse to search your car if after pulling you over they can find an excuse to further invade your privacy or if you foolishly consent to let them.

So, oem appearance but an upgraded performance is of importance to me.

 

these are the headlight housings i bought. hope this came out right. i cant access ebay from work. i will check tonight.


https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F371925133098

 

Redark1: The link just leads to ebay.com When you are not at work please update the link if you have time. Thank you.

 

Redark1, do these buckets allow you to do all 3 adjustments with the headlights installed.Most aftermarket if you have the blinker housing and side marker housing installed two adjustments are voided .TR

 

I just ordered two of these to test for offroad use:

HELLA 9007 100/80W High Wattage Bulb, 12V


And I also ordered this Hipro Power 9007 Heavy Duty Ceramic Headlight Wire Harness:


And I think I will beef up the headlight relay wiring from the battery to the light sockets and back to the battery to 12 gauge copper THHN from Home Depot in convoluted tubing.

Any thoughts?

 

I cannot remember the wire size our kits came with,but do consider the amperage of the relay and the contact amperage rating.Contacts in this case are taking the most amperage . 100 divided by 12 is 8.333 amp .(high beam) low beam 80 by 12 is 6.66 amps .I don't remember seeing the amperage coil or contact rating on these relays.When I add relays to any of my trucks it's always 40 amp contact rating or more.Of course I am using 12 volts and trucks idling or driving the voltage increases and the amperage decreases.I will look tomorrow at the relays and wire sizes .TR

 

FYI Today the market is flooded with relays contacts that are not stated on the component.They say it in a lot of ads- oh it's 40 amp,but I always question that.China/ Japan and other countries sell cheapies. What's good about our wiring harnesses ,it's a short distance ,and I don't feel you need to upgrade yet.Install the bulbs install your meter inline with the load on amperage,that's the true value .Most relays I use are military /government /industrial .Listed as surplus ( brand new).

 

Black Ford XLT: Thanks. And I will probably use the higher temp rated insullation on the automotive copper stranded wire.

Let me ask this: I would like to use a small relay box rather than just let those Shori relays be expose under the hood. Any thoughts on a no more than four relay box I could adapt?

And if you have a link to the .mil relays which may be appropriate for my use in this instance, please post it if you don't mind.

 

Bosch, Ford,come to mind as 12 volt, no pictures -sorry ,(these were purchased in the 90s,)if you mount them in a box use weep holes and air holes, heat - humidity ,water kills all things electrical.Are you planning on burning high beam /low beam together? Caution never make a relay water proof if not intended.Moisture gets in it and can't escape.TR