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diagnostics help needed F350 one ton dually dump truck

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Old 11-12-2017, 04:49 PM
jesse_jack jesse_jack is offline
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diagnostics help needed F350 one ton dually dump truck

before i bought it
rotten deck
new box tires and brakes


new gates have 3/4 inch i have round led lights to put back in .
8 inch bullet hinges
hello. i am new to this site and have never owned a ford before. was always a chevy guy. im a person who sees vehicals as tools . i do home renovations and for 30 years i have owned 4 chevy g20 vans.

last year i had an oppertunity given to me. 100 cords of mixed hardwood and softwood mostly in rounds some or a lot i guess in 4 to 6 foot lengths at 4 to 6 foot in diameter. the rounds were also that large in diameter. these were all the lowest portion of old growth trees hundreds of years old. i git the wood from a tree service that removed dangerouse trees in the city. sawmills dont want it. nor do firewood companys because over the years people nail and bolt multiple things to trees in the city and the trees as they grow bassically grow right over those pieces of steel and the steel becomes embedded all the way up the trunks.

anyways i found it quite profitable even with the extra work of prossesing such large pieces of wood. and the added expence of chains that get destroyed by the steel if you hit it.

but i was killing my 1995 g20 chevy van delivering a cord at a time with it. a cord of mixed wood is about 3 to 4000 lbs.

so i bought a 1986 F350 with a 6.9 IDI international harvester/navastar engine and a c6 3 speed auto trans. it has 206 773 kilometers not miles on the odometer. i figure thats decent low milage on a diesel
it is a one ton dually with an 8 foot x 12 foot deck and its a dump box too.

so. ive done a lot to it . new box and barn door gates. new tires all around agressive snow tires. new rear brakes complete even the emergency foot actuator was not working so complete emergency system replacement as well. new lights all lights mow working . firewall was leaking like a sive. removed cowl between hood and windshield and cleaned it up. hosed with rust converter and reputtyed seam. old truck needed some love. lol

here is the only thing i cant seem to diagnose. it starts beautifully. glow plugs take 20 seconds to warm up. and starts right away. after i let it warm up a few minutes and even after driving for an hour im experienceing acceleation problems coupled with automatic upshifts from when i stop . when i go to move it almost feels like its slipping but once i get going its fine. but continues to rev up to the factory rev limiter setting. it does not shift. not untill i release a small amount of preasure from the throttle. it then shifts from low to second. as i continue to accelerate it does the same thing again. so i let of on the throttle and it shifts from 2nd to drive. however the engine continues to run at higher rpm. its almost like im towing something or its being pulled back because at any speed in any gear i have to keep my foot into the throttle to maintain speed. i can maunually shift it and can feel both second and third kick in

its got a new green stripe vacume modulator and the oil is in good condition and properly topped up. thats as far as my limited knowlege about ford or diesel mechanics. i could still adjust 2nd gear bands from what ive read. will attempt tgat next but thought maybe someone here might have a better solution.

so has anyone got any idea what could be causing that.
any help would be greatly appreciated

jesse out

Last edited by jesse_jack; 11-12-2017 at 05:45 PM. Reason: want to add pictures
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Old 11-13-2017, 08:15 AM
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welcome to FTE.
it sounds like you may have low vacuum from the vacuum pump.
the trans needs at least 19-20 inches of vacuum to work properly, but the brakes and heater controls will work fine down to around 14-15 inches vacuum.
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Old 11-13-2017, 01:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjc transport View Post
welcome to FTE.
it sounds like you may have low vacuum from the vacuum pump.
the trans needs at least 19-20 inches of vacuum to work properly, but the brakes and heater controls will work fine down to around 14-15 inches vacuum.
thanks for the reply. vacume pump??
do you mean the vrv thats attached to the side of the injector pump. ive posted on several sites and that seems to be the concenses. however. upon inspection the vrv and the vacume modulator both look brand new. no oil or dust on them. the vacume lines appear tight and there is no transmision fluid in them. its pouring rain here so i have not gone to look but there are two vacume lines on the vrv. i guess one is going to this pump you are talking about and the other goes down to the vacume modulator at the side of the transmission. i dought it but maybe they are reversed. lol. ive not traced those hoses yet. i tried to adjust the vacume modulator screw but then it did not seem to even want to shift into 3rd or drive gear. i turned the screw out one full turn. i turned it back in again because i figure its already preset . i dont have a vacume tester so will have to get a mechanic to check it out. uggggg. so expensive. im pretty sure it has something to do with these parts as i can shift manually and definately feel a nice smooth shift. its just the over reving that concerns me. or what sounds like high reving. ive never operated a deisel before but gas powered v8s seem to gluide once your up to speed with no need to be on the throttle to maintain speed.

Last edited by jesse_jack; 11-13-2017 at 01:33 PM. Reason: spelling mistakes
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Old 11-13-2017, 01:44 PM
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Jesse, don't take it to a mechanic just yet. You can rent a vacuum gauge from the nearest auto parts store. You might need to spend a few dollars on a brass fitting adapter from the hardware store. The vacuum gauge I have and the ones I've seen use a 1/4" vacuum nipple. I don't know if the 6.9L IDI uses 1/4" vacuum lines, I've never looked close enough.


You mentioned the engine has oil in it, did you check the condition and level of the ATF?


Also, the vacuum pump is on the passenger's side of the engine below the alternator and above the mechanical lift pump. BTW, that truck is AWESOME! I love the dump bed.

Last edited by Olds64; 11-13-2017 at 01:47 PM. Reason: Oops...
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Old 11-13-2017, 03:28 PM
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vacuum pump is belt driven and is below the alternator.
diesel needs a belt driven pump because the diesel engine does not produce vacuum like a gas engine does.
the VRV regulates the amount of vacuum going to the trans modulator. too much, and it will upshift fast. not enough and it will not upshift.
if the vacuum pump is dying it will not supply enough vacuum to the VRV, and you will get the funky shifting you are experiencing.
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Old 11-13-2017, 03:35 PM
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Here are vacuum pumps available from RockAuto. I don't know if there's a better source. Maybe there are rebuild kits available.

1986 FORD F-250 6.9L 420cid V8 DIESEL Vacuum Pump | RockAuto
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Old 11-14-2017, 12:25 PM
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vacume pump

Quote:
Originally Posted by tjc transport View Post
vacuum pump is belt driven and is below the alternator.
diesel needs a belt driven pump because the diesel engine does not produce vacuum like a gas engine does.
the VRV regulates the amount of vacuum going to the trans modulator. too much, and it will upshift fast. not enough and it will not upshift.
if the vacuum pump is dying it will not supply enough vacuum to the VRV, and you will get the funky shifting you are experiencing.

hello. thanks for tge reply. yes. after i posted that message i went lookings for info on it. its raining so much here i cant work on it. but im curiouse if the vacume lines are reversed at the vrv. or would it even shift at all. i can shift it manually and it shifts very smooth. anyways. i learned that the top port of the vrv is hooked to the tee from the pump . the tee also goes to yhe brake booster. the brakes work awesome. and the bottom port goes to the vacume modulator so im going to check next time im out at the truck. i have a feeling its backwards though from what i remember cause i was looking at those but did not know this stuff then.

also. yes . i meant i checked the oil in transmission. it was down a quart so i topped it up. its very clean .
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Old 11-14-2017, 12:37 PM
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i wouldn't take it to a shop. they'll end up charging you money only to not fix your problem. these trucks are super easy to work on with the help of people on these forums that just my 2 cents. Welcome to FTE!!
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Old 11-14-2017, 01:13 PM
jesse_jack jesse_jack is offline
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thanks for the compliment

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Originally Posted by Olds64 View Post
Jesse, don't take it to a mechanic just yet. You can rent a vacuum gauge from the nearest auto parts store. You might need to spend a few dollars on a brass fitting adapter from the hardware store. The vacuum gauge I have and the ones I've seen use a 1/4" vacuum nipple. I don't know if the 6.9L IDI uses 1/4" vacuum lines, I've never looked close enough.


You mentioned the engine has oil in it, did you check the condition and level of the ATF?


Also, the vacuum pump is on the passenger's side of the engine below the alternator and above the mechanical lift pump. BTW, that truck is AWESOME! I love the dump bed.

hello. yep. the dump box is sweet. those rear gates i made out of one drop down gate from an F550. just cut it in half. i like the center portion. it looks like a shield. ha ha. its an autobot. lol

and although the engine oil is good i meant the transmission oil was good and i added a quart to top it ip so it showed half way between the add lines.

so far im into this puppy to the tune of 6 grande. bought it for 3 . so three more for what ive done was very good.

1000 for 6 tires and 2 inch spacers on rear. mounted and ballanced. these were all new take offs. the rears are 245 75 16. because they are 1 inch wider per tire it required aluminum spacers so the tires would not rub when loaded. the fronts are 215 85 16. cooper discovers. these are brand new. they are all aggresive tread winter snowys . tires alone new were going to be 1600 mounted and ballanced.

1000 for new rear brakes. complete. this truck had the deep drums. had to order them in. new spring kits. new shoes. new wheel cylinders. new automatic adjuster kits .new emergency brake cables and even the emergency brake pedal and complete actuator. oh and also a new inner tie rod on drivers side. the kingpin has a 1/16th of play at the top on that side too. and replaced the bushings in the two arms that bolt to the frame and are attached to the front end.

1000 for the dump box. those rear gates ate 600 of that. had two side posts fabbed up and then the gate and hinges and pay a welder. most of the lumber was stuff i had kicking around. used. i got from jobs ive done. i do renovations for a living.

so. now it has new tires all around. complete new brakes. and new box. and some labour with a wire wheel and brush to get surface rust down to a minimum . sprayed whole frame even the flat deck frame with rust converter and then sprayed whole frame and deck with rubberised rock gaurd.

the wood has two coats all around of thompsons waterseal. going to undercoat the cab next. all the body mounts are like new. as are rocket panels and floors and cab corners. zero rust. white paint from factory still all good. fenders the same. just some slight rust on the hood.

i also had to replace the high low foot botton on the floor. was rusted bad. headlights did not work. the firewall seal under the cowl was leaking. so took that off and cleaned it up . rust converter again. and resealed with fiberglass roof repair to plug small rust holes and reseal the seam.

replaced the rear tail/brake/signal lights . but all other lights worked fine. lights up like a christmas tree.

well thats it so far. hoping it will pay for itself in first year of work. but i definately need to get this transmission problem fixed.

thanks again for the help.

jesse out
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Old 11-14-2017, 01:23 PM
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Good job getting all that work done. It's definitely a cool truck.
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Old 11-14-2017, 01:49 PM
jesse_jack jesse_jack is offline
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transmission shops

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Originally Posted by jmuenchow View Post
i wouldn't take it to a shop. they'll end up charging you money only to not fix your problem. these trucks are super easy to work on with the help of people on these forums that just my 2 cents. Welcome to FTE!!
hello. yes. i agree. ive only taken 2 vehicals to a trans shop. both times they completely disassembeled the transmission and gave it back to me that way. i was sooooo peeeeed off. and both times i drove them to the shop. and both were dofferent shops. they wont fix small problems. if the transmission has more than 100 thousand on it and its having problems they want to replace it. it should be against the law for them to do that. ive heard many other people tell me the same thing happened to them.
i took a heavy duty mech tech course in college. rebuilt both auto and standard transmissions. 2000 to 4000 at a shop. get real. they are robbing people blind.
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Old 11-14-2017, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by jesse_jack View Post
yes. i agree. ive only taken 2 vehicals to a trans shop.

I'm the same way. I had the TH400 in my Olds rebuilt when I was restoring it only because I was too lazy to go through it myself and a friend at work gave me a reference to an old timer that didn't rob me blind.


The C6 automatic in our Bullnose trucks is about as simple and bulletproof as automatics get. If it doesn't have clutch material in the pan just change the fluid / filter and drive it. Even if it does have 200k+ miles on it.
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Old 11-14-2017, 02:23 PM
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top tap on VRV goes to vacuum source, bottom goes to trans modulator .
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Old 11-16-2017, 04:02 PM
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vacume pump

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Originally Posted by tjc transport View Post
top tap on VRV goes to vacuum source, bottom goes to trans modulator .
hello again. so i traced the hoses and everything is hooked up right.
i decided to move the adjustment on thr vrv . it helped a lot with the acceleration from when i begin to move the truck. i had to move it all the way toward the back of the engine at its futhest adjustment. but now i cant feel it shift at all. i think it is shifting because i can get up to 70 ks without it roaring at high rpms still but the feeling that its being held back is still there. still around 3000 rpm all the time at any speed.
i dont have a tach so im going by ear and feel and experience from the sound a gas engine makes at 2500 rpms. i find most gas engines run at about 2000 rpms at hyway speeds. and 1500 in town.

i checked it by shifting manually again. from start to 20 kilometers it shifts to 2nd and i can feel the smooth acceleration. same with 2nd to 3rd. i can feel it shift up nice and smooth with a slight acceleration but like i said. it will only maintain speed of if put my foot into the throttle and raise the rpms.
i checked all hoses for collapsed inner walls by just blowing through them. with my mouth . lol not compressed air.
there appears to be no blockage.
so i guess i need to replace the pump. 150 bucks. but hey. it wont give me any problems down the road.
will update when ive done that.
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Old 11-16-2017, 04:54 PM
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irritated

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Jesse, don't take it to a mechanic just yet. You can rent a vacuum gauge from the nearest auto parts store. You might need to spend a few dollars on a brass fitting adapter from the hardware store. The vacuum gauge I have and the ones I've seen use a 1/4" vacuum nipple. I don't know if the 6.9L IDI uses 1/4" vacuum lines, I've never looked close enough.


You mentioned the engine has oil in it, did you check the condition and level of the ATF?


Also, the vacuum pump is on the passenger's side of the engine below the alternator and above the mechanical lift pump. BTW, that truck is AWESOME! I love the dump bed.
jueeeesh. everytime i look at this thing i find another part connected to the vacuum system. i just noticed another small can. bolted to the fender. it has a small hose comeing from the manifold on the firewall. its about the size of a tunafish can. it also has an electrical plug with 3 wires on it. i cant for the life of me bring up a schematic on this darn vacuum system. so now there is one more part that i dont know what it does
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