Swapping motor. What would you do?
#91
#93
#94
It does look very dry, even the dipstick bung looks clean. I agree that just cleaning it up and repainting is probably fine. However my dipstick didn't leak until I pulled the tube out when doing my injector cups I kept hitting the tube so I decided to pull it off and get it out of the way. When I got the truck back on the road the bung started leaking.
#96
Mine took some effort to remove, but at the time I was doing it I thought it was because I wasn't pulling it straight out - I did this with the engine installed of course, with lots of truck in the way. It was insanely difficult getting it back in with a new o-ring, so I imagine all that pushing and pulling is what did in the bung seal. But that big o-ring was garbage anyway when I removed it later, very oil soaked and flimsy. Whether that happened after I disturbed it or not I can't tell you.
#98
#99
#100
#101
So an update on progress. Been able to log some hours the past few days. I have gotten the valley cleaned, billet plenums installed, fuel bowl installed along with fuel lines w/ new Parker sleeves, swapped my billet thermostat housing over, turbo pedestal installed, exhaust manifolds w/ new gaskets and bolts installed, and a engine mounts reinstalled, oil cooler rebuilt and installed, oil rail plugs and HPOP fitting installed with new orings, and have gotten the drivers side injectors installed with new o rings, and new o rings on the UVC oil plugs. Glow plugs are pulled and wire wheeled cleaned. Gonna leave them out so I can spin the engine once in to make sure and clear the cylinders. Drivers side valve cover temperaly installed. Will plan on doing the passenger injectors in the morning. I think after that she will be ready to go back in. Have tod reinstall the dipstick too.
Did find one bad oring. Curious if that was contributing to the long start.
Did find one bad oring. Curious if that was contributing to the long start.
#103
#104
#105
So woke up early and did the injector o rings on the passenger side. Installed the 90 degree fitting for the fuel pressure guage (sanded down some of the fuel bowl housing to make it fit). Cleaned off 10 lbs of grease and dirt from the frame. Took the engine harness and install new loom and tape to make that look a lot nice. Re installed the dipstick tube with new $6 dollar Ford o ring. Scuffed an painted the oil pan with Zinc Cromate Primer x2 followed up by two coats of gloss engine block enamels. I declared it ready to install.
SHE IS IN !!!!!!!!!!!!! Getting the tranny/torque converter lined up was a huge pain in the butt!!!!!!!!! So on to installing everything else tomorrow. I am beginning to think she might be running tomorrow.
Anyways a few questions.
Trans to engine torque?
Torque converter to flywheel torque?
And according to the engine mounts the engine sits about an 1/8 to a 1/4 farther to the driverside? Is that an issue?
The dipstick tubes are the same for all the years correct?
SHE IS IN !!!!!!!!!!!!! Getting the tranny/torque converter lined up was a huge pain in the butt!!!!!!!!! So on to installing everything else tomorrow. I am beginning to think she might be running tomorrow.
Anyways a few questions.
Trans to engine torque?
Torque converter to flywheel torque?
And according to the engine mounts the engine sits about an 1/8 to a 1/4 farther to the driverside? Is that an issue?
The dipstick tubes are the same for all the years correct?