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Injector rebuild Yellow Submarine.

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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

Injector rebuild Yellow Submarine.

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  #91  
Old 03-06-2018, 04:59 PM
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The white interior O ring on these injectors, does anyone know what size this is? ID, OD, Thickness, type of material? I've only seen those in a complete rebuild kit that includes other parts that I don't need, but they don't say any of the info I am curious about. I haven't opened up one yet, but my apprehension with this project is that I really feel I should take the tips and clean them in the US cleaner, but don't want to take off the shell if this white o-ring will have to be replaced if I don't have replacement parts. Anyone know the answer on this thread? Thank in advance. I'm starting my project today, and will hopefully finish by Thursday. (I have other things to do while I'm in here.) I have all the exterior ones. I've edited this post as I realized I linked the wrong photo... C'mon coffee!!!!
 

Last edited by ajsemtb; 03-06-2018 at 05:21 PM. Reason: Wrong part mentioned
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  #92  
Old 03-06-2018, 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by ajsemtb View Post
The white interior O ring on these injectors, does anyone know what size this is? ID, OD, Thickness, type of material? I've only seen those in a complete rebuild kit that includes other parts that I don't need, but they don't say any of the info I am curious about. I haven't opened up one yet, but my apprehension with this project is that I really feel I should take the tips and clean them in the US cleaner, but don't want to take off the shell if this white o-ring will have to be replaced if I don't have replacement parts. Anyone know the answer on this thread? Thank in advance. I'm starting my project today, and will hopefully finish by Thursday. (I have other things to do while I'm in here.) I have all the exterior ones. I've edited this post as I realized I linked the wrong photo... C'mon coffee!!!!
I know that trying to pinch pennies to get just one injector o-ring is a bad idea. Ed at FICMRepair.com will sell you a set of o-rings, c clip and copper washer for about $10 per injector. You ABSOLUTELY NEED TO replace the black and white o-rings as well as the copper washer EVERY time the injector is torqued down into the cup or you risk blow by and o-ring failure causing major issues. Iíd do the full re-seal for $10 per injector so there are no questionsble parts.
 
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  #93  
Old 03-07-2018, 09:15 AM
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Sorry for the confusion, I have all of the O-rings for the exterior of the injector including the black and white and copper to which you're referring. What I'm talking about is the internal o ring and based on the picture there's only one. Those are not included in the kits. And the internal one is the one I'm wondering about. Thanks for your reply though.
 
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  #94  
Old 03-07-2018, 09:26 AM
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I see! You said it was white so I automatically thought you meant the lower o ring below the fuel inlet screens. The internal o rings on mine are black and came with the rebuild kits from Accurate Diesel. I’m sure if you call them they can get you these without buying a full rebuild kit.
 
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  #95  
Old 03-07-2018, 03:37 PM
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  #96  
Old 03-13-2018, 06:20 PM
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I am fighting getting 5 & 7 injector cups clean. sides are all fine, it's just the very bottom outside edge that would be the buildup outside the copper gasket from the injector tip. I'm mean I've been at this for hours.... I have the Alliant brushes, and I'm using carb cleaner, wd-40, microfiber clothes.... I know it's just a thin buildup, and honestly it should be outside of the copper gasket. But does anyone have any tips to get these as shiny as the 1-4 ones? Honestly, I left 6&8 with just a micro bit, but it was far enough away from the copper I'm not worried about it, but 5&7 are a little more concerning... Unless it's clean enough by having the rubber oring seats clean, and the middle clean. ???

Also, I have T-40 hold downs, and everything I read says 24'lbs of torque, but a couple threads, with no supporting documentation say 26-27'lbs, and one thread said 31'... Now, maybe this is for people who don't clean out the hold down bolt holes, but I spray them out a half dozen times, including once with carb cleaner AND I clean off the bolts themselves AND blow out the hold down bracket, as there is usually oil in that as well. So, I'm not as concerned about hydro-torquing that some people may be over torquing to compensate... ??? Thanks
 
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  #97  
Old 03-13-2018, 07:40 PM
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303-D112 is the brush that should clean the face of the cup.
Use you phone to get a photo and post it. If you are able to
get a good closeup shot of the cup face.




 
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  #98  
Old 03-13-2018, 07:59 PM
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Diesel Tech Ron states 27ft lbs on the injector torque so that’s what I went with. Ford’s spec was 26 then they bumped it to 27.
 
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  #99  
Old 03-13-2018, 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by SmackDaddy View Post
Diesel Tech Ron states 27ft lbs on the injector torque so thatís what I went with. Fordís spec was 26 then they bumped it to 27.
but the 26 is specific to the t45s. And I haven't found any documentation that says they bumped the t40s up...
 
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  #100  
Old 03-13-2018, 11:04 PM
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Some will skip reading about the Yellow Submarine rebuilt to answer your question, you'd probably get more traffic if you start a new thread.
 
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  #101  
Old 03-13-2018, 11:32 PM
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Originally Posted by ajsemtb View Post
but the 26 is specific to the t45s. And I haven't found any documentation that says they bumped the t40s up...
I missed that part, good catch. I hope my 27# is good. Iím still fighting the adjustable fuel pressure regulator. Iím sending it back and installing my blue spring.
 
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  #102  
Old 03-14-2018, 08:19 AM
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The last official torque spec from Ford that I saw was 24ft-lbs for pre 2006 and 26 ft-lbs for 2006 and up (but I could easily be forgetting a TSB update). Since then many experienced forum regulars and techs seem to be recommending 27 to 28 ft-lbs for all of them.
 
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  #103  
Old 03-14-2018, 08:31 AM
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In the end the torque spec is just maintaining the integrity of the seal between the injector, copper washer and cup so I went with 27 ft lbs feeling like more is probably better. We are splitting hairs between the lowest I have seen (24ft lbs) and the highest I have seen anyone talk about (32ft lbs). The difference between 26 and 27ft lbs seems marginal. A torque wrench could be off that much, even an expensive one. I used my digital Craftsman. I think making sure the cup is clean and threads are blown out make more of a difference than anything. The last thing you want is the hold down bolt to loosen up and allow the combustion chamber to get past the washer. I think that’s what was going on with those dark and dirty cups, there was some blow-by going on.
 
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  #104  
Old 03-14-2018, 08:41 AM
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Well said. An accurate (and calibrated) torque wrench is a valuable tool!

I hadn't seen 32 ft-lbs recommended before. That seems a little much for my blood.
 
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  #105  
Old 03-14-2018, 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by bismic View Post
Well said. An accurate (and calibrated) torque wrench is a valuable tool!

I hadn't seen 32 ft-lbs recommended before. That seems a little much for my blood.
I ran across a post about injector torque specs and someone threw that tidbit of information in there. 32 is pretty high but the guy said he had always torqued his down that much. Iíll stick with 27.
 
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