Just replace the sensor and stuff some of the plastic weed whacker string down the tube to ensure the tube is open.

Think of it this way, if you remove the sensor and start the motor - the tube opening should be spitting exhaust fumes into your clean engine bay, if not then the tube is plugged with carbon and soot.

Also, the sensor is a no return item once the packaging has been opened. So never buy a sensor that has been previously opened.

 

The following is a gross oversimplification:

At key on, the computer synchronizes Manifold Absolute Presure, atmospheric pressure sensor and EBC and DFP pressure sensor - as they are all ambient at that moment. Once the motor is running, the computer is responding to the go pedal input to manage fuel and air based upon rpm. EBP is telling the computer that there is excess energy available to spool the turbo in order to manage air, accomplished by changing the geometry surrounding the turbo to increase rotation resulting in more air.

Increasing RPM as a response to the go pedal is a synchronization of adding more fuel and then adding more air as there is momentary excess energy in EBP to work with as RPM increases.

So if “no” pressure or “low” presure from EBP, the motor still runs and the computer can only advance the air and fuel management so far because there is little/no excess energy available as reported by EBP.

 

Epic Copper...epic. Thank you for the explanation. It's always great to increase ones understanding of something they're interested in.

 

These sensors are way beyond what came in my beginners electronics kit from Radio Shack, and i’m not an EE. So my default is to respect the importance of the sensor in that some engineer put it into the overall equation for a reason.

As we all have experienced, over time and temperatures the electronics become a point of vulnerability with age.

I’m good with a life span of 9 to 10 years with EBP.

 

Okay. Ran a coat hanger & weed eater string down the tube...undid the bottom end as well and tried to clean out as best as possible without removing the tube completely. I installed a nice new shiny EBP sensor from the Ford parts warehouse right down the street. Motorcraft of course. About $109 after tax.

Can't say I notice a real difference. Perhaps I should clean the MAP sensor as well?

It's been so long since I ran the stock HP tune...I can't say I remember how a stock truck is supposed to act. Just seems to be too much boost with not enough ummph behind it.


Bottom end unscrewed. Taken from the fender well.



Bottom end unscrewed. Taken from underneath truck. I worked the wrench from here. Not a lot of room.



Brand new EBP sensor installed.

 

What do yall think?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PIfm...ature=youtu.be

 

subscribing - I have the same symptoms and would like to get it figured out.

I had a 08 F250 KR about 6 months ago, stock with all emissions, etc. It had a crack in the DPF but that was it. It had all kinds of get up and go. the rear axle was a limited slip 3.73

now I have a 08 F350 lariat, rear axle is 3.73 open, and it doesn't have the same pedal response at all. Boost numbers are right, and if you really put the pedal down it will go, but it sounds like it is working too hard all the time. This one is deleted now, but it had all the emissions on it when I got it and acted the same.

 

At this point I am wondering if trans fluid might be a culprit - perhaps fresh fluid would wake up the torque converter and make shifts sooner?

Transmissions are voodoo to me - hopefully someone else can give an intelligent opinion..

 

Something definitely isn't right there. You should be accelerating much faster than that with that kind of boost, especially if deleted. The trans fluid, even if it was disgusting, wouldn't hold the truck back that much.

How does the truck respond when you dig down into the skinny pedal? Are you egr deleted? What kind of exhaust smoke are you getting on your stock tune?

Not exactly apples to apples, but my 6.0 stayed tuned for about a year and ran great until i flashed it back to stock tuning. It showed higher boost numbers without going accelerating fast. very similar, albeit not as severe, as your truck. It also put out a lot of black smoke on acceleration. The culprit was a sticky egr valve, which was always commanded shut with my tuning. After cleaning the egr valve, ebp tube/sensor, and iat sensor, it was back to normal power and nearly no smoke on stock tuning.

 

That is a good point. I am pretty sure the original poster was tuned with the egr’s still connected. He will correct me if I am wrong.

That does make since with the ERG though. Will have to see what Picton says.

 

The op did say that it was regardless of which tune he runs... which would mean egr off and egr on tunes. With a egr on tune the computer should still throw a CEL for lack of egr flow if the valve was stuck.

I also can easily hit 20 psi just going around town, not accelerating hard. If I really need to get somewhere I see 30 and 32 psi very easily.

 

I can tell you I just had a dealer do the complete trans flush and filter change. No different. Also changed EBP and MAP sensor. Cleaned EBP tube and port from both ends. Cleaned connection port. No change.

I've never been certain on this and Torque Technologies closed for business. So I don't know what the EGR valve is doing with their tunes. Though the trucks ran well when I was running that tune. Spartan says their tunes, past a certain level, cycle the EGR valve at idle or something. I wonder about that. I do have my EGR coolers still installed. But I have the valve unplugged (grey plug). I was told to unplug them if they were disabled via tune by another forum.

Indeed. EGR coolers and valve still connected and "disabled" via tune and unplugged.

This is essentially what I experience. High boost and a lack of power overall.

 

*UPDATE*

I think a simple reset of the tune may have been the issue. Basically, switched to the 40hp tune...let it run for a minute. Turned it off and put the stock (DPF off) tune back on. Seems to be acting better. Gonna give it a few more miles but that may have done the trick. Good grief...at least I know my MAP and EBP sensors are good.

 

I will try this and see what happens.

Did you go through a trans relearn procedure or just start driving normally? I am using H&S minimaxx and anytime you load the stock tune, which uses stock trans tuning, it erases the trans memory.

 

I think most tuners are the same in that regard. I've never followed the relearn process though. Of course my shifts are quite firm again but it'll iron out once more. I'm just glad the turbo situation seems to be resolved. I'll find out for sure on the way in to work tomorrow.

Hopefully it works for you as well.