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First oil change?

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  #16  
Old 11-07-2017, 05:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Tact
Is FORSCAN the only way possible to see your oil life %age? At 5000 miles I'd like to know what %age I have remaining.

I can't help that every time I see the word FORSCAN.....I think of foreskin.
The Ford Pass app can gather the information for you and it can be reviewed on the owner.ford.com website, but it can be difficult and unpredictable to deal with.
 
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Old 11-07-2017, 06:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Redrockerstl55
If someone uses quality oil and crappy filters you are probably wasting money on the oil.
So are you saying I shouldn't be running FRAM? But..... they have the textured grip to help you remove them.
 
  #18  
Old 11-07-2017, 08:57 AM
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I have tried to find the Beta ratings for many automotive filters and at most can only find one point, like pointed out on the Amsoil filter. I'm not saying the filter isn't helping, they just don't do well below 20 microns. It takes a bypass system to filter down to a lower size particle. The filter is normally sized to have twice the flow capacity as the pump to minimize the pressure drop across the filter. If it is filtering down to 5 microns it would need an extremely large surface area to be used as a main filter.


All in all, everyone is draining their oil out long before it has failed. I easily get 12K miles out of a synthetic oil and it still hasn't broken down or become full of contaminants. The oil life is just an algorithm, it doesn't actually test the oil to find out the condition.


I deal with the reliability of multimillion dollar industrial engines and we don't change the oil until the analysis shows a problem. On an reciprocating engine that runs 24/7 around 90% load the oil will last for years if it doesn't get contaminated, but we are doing a better job of filtering it. These engine routinely run for 80,000 hours (equivalent to a million miles) before they are overhauled and then it is just done because it is cheaper than running it longer. These engines are also built for durability, no short skirt pistons like in an automotive engine. Oil is pumped through the engine until it reaches a minimum pressure and for a long enough time to reach all components before the engine is started. It is also pumped after the engine is stopped until the turbos have spun down.


Oil is a slippery subject
 
  #19  
Old 11-07-2017, 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by harmanrk
So are you saying I shouldn't be running FRAM? But..... they have the textured grip to help you remove them.
Go buy, or do an internet search, a Wix, Hastings, Amsoil, Royal Purple, and Purolator Pure 1 filter and cut them open...put them up next to what you are using and you will see the difference in the filters.


The oil is more important than the filter, but that doesn't mean the filter isn't helping.
 
  #20  
Old 11-07-2017, 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Turbo Dog
Go buy, or do an internet search, a Wix, Hastings, Amsoil, Royal Purple, and Purolator Pure 1 filter and cut them open...put them up next to what you are using and you will see the difference in the filters.
The thing with forums is, sometime sarcasm does not get conveyed. I was just agreeing with RedRockerstl55, it really does not make sense to spend 60 dollars or more on oil, then use a 4 dollar filter. I moved to WIX over a decade ago, when I moved to synthetic oil, and away from the 3000 mile change, and never looked back. I did just check, FRAM does not even make a filter for the 6.7.
 
  #21  
Old 11-07-2017, 09:36 AM
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LOL...I didn't hear that part.
 
  #22  
Old 11-07-2017, 09:41 AM
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I agree with what turbo dog is saying. A quality synthetic oil can last much longer than what most people push it to. I just like to do a few early oil changes to flush out break in metals and then I start extending them out. 12,000 Miles should not be a problem for either the gasser or psd if quality oil and filters are used.

Relying on on a company like Blackstone can help assess how far you can safely run your oil.

3,000 mile oil changes after an engine is broken in is a waste of money and time. At the same time 20, 000 mile intervals probably are not responsible. The right interval is somewhere in between for most drivers of these trucks.
 
  #23  
Old 11-07-2017, 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Jim Rossi
When changing my oil, after I drain it, I always pour a quart of kerosene or diesel fuel into the crankcase. It never comes out clear ,a cheap way to flush crud out of the system .

Instant crankcase dilution! Beautiful!
 
  #24  
Old 11-07-2017, 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Redrockerstl55
I disagree...look at my wifes Mercedes Benz...
You've laid out one case of a different engine that may or may not actually have something wrong with it, and there is no evidence that the problem (if one actually exists) is related to oil change intervals or something else entirely. I really do not know how you made the jump from high metals in oil samples to the conclusion that the recommended oil change interval was the cause of (eventual) engine failure.
 
  #25  
Old 11-07-2017, 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by harmanrk
The filter along is 19 dollars. Where are you getting 3+ gallons of Mobil 1 for 16 dollars?
He's not, so ...
 
  #26  
Old 11-07-2017, 03:29 PM
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First Oil Change for Me, Too

My 2017 F250 XLT 6.7 is my first Ford, and my first diesel. Today the change oil indicator came on, and I've only got 3309 miles on it. Seems a bit soon, especially considering I'm still running on the original DEF. I've towed my travel trailer a couple hundred miles on flat terrain, and it's no more than 6K lbs. Other than that it's mostly been around-town driving. I purchased the truck in late July. Is anyone else seeing the change oil indicator this soon, and is it all that unusual?
 
  #27  
Old 11-07-2017, 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by bronyaur
My 2017 F250 XLT 6.7 is my first Ford, and my first diesel. Today the change oil indicator came on, and I've only got 3309 miles on it. Seems a bit soon, especially considering I'm still running on the original DEF. I've towed my travel trailer a couple hundred miles on flat terrain, and it's no more than 6K lbs. Other than that it's mostly been around-town driving. I purchased the truck in late July. Is anyone else seeing the change oil indicator this soon, and is it all that unusual?
That's really low mileage, but it may be a time thing. I don't think anyone knows the exact calculation used. What's your build date?
 
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Old 11-07-2017, 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by wfedwar
That's really low mileage, but it may be a time thing. I don't think anyone knows the exact calculation used. What's your build date?
Build date is 12/16.
 
  #29  
Old 11-07-2017, 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Turbo Dog
I have tried to find the Beta ratings for many automotive filters and at most can only find one point, like pointed out on the Amsoil filter. I'm not saying the filter isn't helping, they just don't do well below 20 microns. It takes a bypass system to filter down to a lower size particle. The filter is normally sized to have twice the flow capacity as the pump to minimize the pressure drop across the filter. If it is filtering down to 5 microns it would need an extremely large surface area to be used as a main filter.


All in all, everyone is draining their oil out long before it has failed. I easily get 12K miles out of a synthetic oil and it still hasn't broken down or become full of contaminants. The oil life is just an algorithm, it doesn't actually test the oil to find out the condition.


I deal with the reliability of multimillion dollar industrial engines and we don't change the oil until the analysis shows a problem. On an reciprocating engine that runs 24/7 around 90% load the oil will last for years if it doesn't get contaminated, but we are doing a better job of filtering it. These engine routinely run for 80,000 hours (equivalent to a million miles) before they are overhauled and then it is just done because it is cheaper than running it longer. These engines are also built for durability, no short skirt pistons like in an automotive engine. Oil is pumped through the engine until it reaches a minimum pressure and for a long enough time to reach all components before the engine is started. It is also pumped after the engine is stopped until the turbos have spun down.


Oil is a slippery subject


Pretty much spot on. My wifes new Range Rover oil change interval is 15000 miles. We wont put that many miles on in 2 years. I change the oil in my SD at 5000k intervals. Only due to the fact it is almost all towing miles.

Sam
 
  #30  
Old 11-07-2017, 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Jim Rossi
When changing my oil, after I drain it, I always pour a quart of kerosene or diesel fuel into the crankcase. It never comes out clear ,a cheap way to flush crud out of the system .
I suggest you reconsider this practice. Anyone who has torn an engine down can attest that more oil sticks around than many realize.

Consider sending a sample of your new oil (after you run the engine for a few minutes) for a UAO to see how badly you are diluting your oil.
 


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