Good Day FTE, nube to site and have been reading feverishly to try and get to the root of my P1316 code. 02, 7.3 excursion, 297,000 miles. Purchased from a friend about 10 months ago who was diligent on maintenance. Changed the oil the other day and on my way back from taking the used oil to an autozone, engine started to run rough and major loss of power. Limped it home and thought problem might be fuel filter as I had not changed mine in some time, ran back to Autozone and grabbed a duralast complete filter with cap. Relieved fuel pressure and swapped out filter, turned ignition to on and the filter cap didnt seal and blew diesel all over the engine compartment. Shut off key, drained the fuel bowl again and pulled new filter out, made sure all the o rings were in correct spots and re-installed, again, it held pressure for a few second the blew diesel all over engine compartment again. Put the old filter back on and it sealed up fine with no issues other than its the old filter, will be replacing with baldwin filter soon.
However, after all of that, it was obvious it was not fuel filter as the truck still ran horrible and with my scanner pulled a P1316 code. I have read this entire thread and have performed many of the suggestions to fix.
Pulled both valve covers and checked vc gasket plugs, both appeared to be in good condition no burnt pins. The inner connectors were slightly off but not to where I would think it would create the P1316 code, but did the quarter mod on both since I was in there. I also re torqued the injectors and glowplug etc.

Passenger valve cover harder to get off but less junk has to be removed to get to it, I recruited by kid who is 6/4" long skinny arms to get in between the ac unit and that back bolt.
Driver side is much easier to get in and out but have all the air tubes to get out of the way.

So, did the quarter mod, double checked the plug connectors were all seated good, reassembled both valve covers fired it up and same problem exists. Let it run for a few minutes then carefully felt the exhaust manifolds, passenger side was very warm driver side was barely warm so I am figuring the issue is with the driver side bank. I disassembled the driver side valve cover again made sure the plug was seated with the quarter mod and it was good. Ohm'd the pins on the injectors and go tthe following.
inj 2 = 3.3 gp = .5
inj 4 = 3.4 gp = .6
inj 6 = 2.6 gp = .9
inj 8 = 3.4 gp = 1.1

I'm going out now to pull the valve cover again and will re-ohm the plug to verify previous figures. Will fire truck up and visually check injectors and start unplugging one by one to see if the engine will smooth out with the bad injector removed from the system.

Does this seem to be the correct path to find the problem?

Also, not sure if this is the correct place to be posting this and if so I apologize. Great site by the way and I can tell already I will be a frequent visitor. Love this excursion and want to keep for a long time.

Thanks for any help or suggestions.

Greg

 

Before I completely ruled out the UVCH I would replace the harness and valve cover gasket. When I was having the same problem with mine I did not want to do the 50 cent mod but did buy the shim kit from Ford(did not like the idea of loose change in the motor). It worked for a little while but soon the problem was back. I replaced the harness and valve cover gasket
with OEM parts and the problem was gone for good. The new connector is supposed to be improved so should not come apart again.

 

Keep your apology pal, you aint getting out of the wet noodle lashing for posting wrong!

It's always a good idea to start your own thread when you have a problem you want help with, but not to worry, I got your back.

Voilà, instant thread.

Stewart

 

So it's Stewart's fault. I was fixing to send him a PM asking why I got an email about a reply to an old thread and it suddenly wasn't there.

To Greg, welcome. Since you read through the other thread and have done a lot of that stuff, to me it sounds like you have a bad injector solenoid on #6. The others read really close together, but I've seen a bad solenoid read about half an ohm off of the good ones.

Cheap test for confirmation is clear the codes with your scanner, pull the valve cover, unplug #6, and start it up. It's fine to start it up with the valve cover off. It won't make a mess at idle. If your rough shaking truck with half the engine not working turns into a truck with a noticeable, but much slighter miss, then the solenoid is your issue. You'll still have the CEL and P1316 code because #6 isn't firing, but 2, 4 & 8 should start working again.

They don't often go bad, but when they do, they cause the IDM to shut down that entire bank. Not many options for just replacing a solenoid, so it's either junkyard injector that you can swap the solenoid off of, or buy a new or rebuild injector and swap out the whole thing.

 

Thank you all for the replies and ribbing...
Turned out to be a bad #6 injector, purchased a rebuilt injector installed and viola truck is up and running like a champ.

Great site! Chris your posts sent me in the right direction and made diagnosing and fixing so much easier. My technical skills on automotive repair is from the school of hard knocks, so diving into these repairs can be daunting but this site and your post made so much easier to diagnose and repair. 1 bolt at a time!

Thank you all again.