Blown Motor?
#16
Yeah those compression readings don't meant the engine is toast, they just mean that cylinder #3 and #8 aren't very happy cold. Warm might be a different story... but if not then there are more serious issues. Test again when warm once you can start her.
I would check the spark and go from there - it should be a bright blue spark. If it doesn't have spark replace the coil, these can and do fail regularly. Don't spend big on a coil, either, buy one locally and if you can get one with a warranty then that is perfect.
If the new coil doesn't work then try looking at the distributor and its pickup coil and/or module. Depends exactly what you have under there.
Cheers - boingk
I would check the spark and go from there - it should be a bright blue spark. If it doesn't have spark replace the coil, these can and do fail regularly. Don't spend big on a coil, either, buy one locally and if you can get one with a warranty then that is perfect.
If the new coil doesn't work then try looking at the distributor and its pickup coil and/or module. Depends exactly what you have under there.
Cheers - boingk
#17
OK. The distributor is stock with an aftermarket pointless kit. Later today I will drain the oil and refill with fresh oil while looking for metal shards in the old oil. Will try to fill new filter as much as possible but it goes on at a rather steep angle. I purchased a new coil and will give it a try to start.
I probably should drop the pan but I am anxious of opening up pandora's box. Wish me luck in not being overly stupid.
I probably should drop the pan but I am anxious of opening up pandora's box. Wish me luck in not being overly stupid.
#18
#19
Apologies for getting frustrated and moving on to other projects. Now back to thisl with tenacity. At least one of the prior owners poured mucho love into this baby. Has remnants of an alarm system, interior hood latch and reinforcements to the wing windows to strengthen security here. Definitely has no spark. Wondering if this thing has a kill switch some were. Any advice how to find it or bypass it?
#20
Originally Posted by 1974 f100
Apologies for getting frustrated and moving on to other projects. Now back to thisl with tenacity. At least one of the prior owners poured mucho love into this baby. Has remnants of an alarm system, interior hood latch and reinforcements to the wing windows to strengthen security here. Definitely has no spark. Wondering if this thing has a kill switch some were. Any advice how to find it or bypass it?
#22
Those compression readings are very low and if you numbered the cylinders the Ford way, you have one on each bank and not on the same crank throw. Plus, there are a couple of other cylinders that are more than 10% low.
This is a structural problem and no amount of wishing will make it go away.
When the engine overheats for whatever reason, the oil thins out and parts that are supposed to ride on a cushion of oil instead bump into each other and damage occurs. This often times results in bearing damage and piston damage. The rings can over heat enough to lose their tension. NONE of this is related to ignition. I would start by checking that the distributor rotor is moving when you crank the engine. Then you drain the oil and check for shiny particles. BTW oil gets thinner with temp but it also thickens up again when temperature is reduced. That's the nature of it. It's not like it thins out with temperature and stays thin. Forget about the new filter, remove the old filter and cut it apart and see what is stuck to the outside of the paper element. Sludge? Shiny particles in the oil? Chunks?
Once the oil is out, DROP THE PAN! There is no use in trying to start an engine with bad rod or main bearings, just makes things worse. Cowboy up and see what damage is down there. It will become obvious pretty quickly. The good news is your block is intact and no connecting rods are broken and sticking through the block. But it's going to take some effort and money to repair the engine. Fortunately for you the Ford FE is coming back in popularity and all parts are being produced.
Noodling on about the ignition is ignoring the situation.
R.
This is a structural problem and no amount of wishing will make it go away.
When the engine overheats for whatever reason, the oil thins out and parts that are supposed to ride on a cushion of oil instead bump into each other and damage occurs. This often times results in bearing damage and piston damage. The rings can over heat enough to lose their tension. NONE of this is related to ignition. I would start by checking that the distributor rotor is moving when you crank the engine. Then you drain the oil and check for shiny particles. BTW oil gets thinner with temp but it also thickens up again when temperature is reduced. That's the nature of it. It's not like it thins out with temperature and stays thin. Forget about the new filter, remove the old filter and cut it apart and see what is stuck to the outside of the paper element. Sludge? Shiny particles in the oil? Chunks?
Once the oil is out, DROP THE PAN! There is no use in trying to start an engine with bad rod or main bearings, just makes things worse. Cowboy up and see what damage is down there. It will become obvious pretty quickly. The good news is your block is intact and no connecting rods are broken and sticking through the block. But it's going to take some effort and money to repair the engine. Fortunately for you the Ford FE is coming back in popularity and all parts are being produced.
Noodling on about the ignition is ignoring the situation.
R.
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