I was planning on replacing the connector. Should it only have two wires going to it?

also, would thisnpoor connection cause the bucking and hesitation?

 

The connector you're going to buy has 1 red wire that you'll connect to your existing red wire. It will have 2 green wires. Connect one green wire to your existing green wire.

The other green wire you DON'T need. Cap it off so it can't ground on anything. The purpose of the second green wire would be to connect an aftermarket tach to the coil. BUT even then there's a signal wire in your dash you can use so you really don't need it anyways. JUST MAKE SURE IT CAN'T GROUND when you cap it off.

 

Two questions. First one is do you need to remove spout for vacuum gauge timing advance.

Second one is what the heck is this and where does it go?

 

I would leave SPOUT connected for setting timing via vacuum, otherwise you might set base timing too far advanced? Hope others chime in.

Those hoses are for your secondary air injection for emissions. The ports on the head have been plugged (by the bolts) so you can leave the hose or remove. If you have a catalytic converter one hose goes to that.

 

Cool I️ may remove it to just get it out of the way. I️ have a digital code reader ordered and on the way so I️ can see what’s going on. It’s still surging and choking at idle. Drove it today. Actually drives semi normal at super low rpms (when check engine light is on) throughout the gears, but once giving it hard acceleration, and when the check engine light goes off, it starts to buck and act up.

 

Next on your list should be vacuum lines. Your lines to the AIR valve (above alternator) are too big & the colored lines are OEM / old. You probably have vac leaks out the wazoo. Fortunately it's cheap and easy to do. I had to replace all mine, took about an hour.

Get the wire fixed first. Vac lines should be high priority also.

Edit: you have an oil cap, right? lol

 

I will replace those. Yes I have the coffee can looking thing on front fender. My PCV hose easily comes out of valve cover, and easily falls out of air box.

Yes it has an oil cap too, haha. I guess the top came off a long time ago. When I was looking for a place for that hose to go, i was like “surely this doesn’t go on the oil cap” because it looked so funny

 

The PCV is located on the back of the valve cover. The front hose that goes to the air box is the breather. The hose attaches to a small filter in the air box. There "should be" a sheet metal "fork" that fits on the outside of the air box to hold the hose in.

The little filter is hard to find... Kind of. I had to go to a couple stores and find an old guy who knew what i was taking about.

I edited comment about can lol, I'm viewing on a phone and didn't see it first time.

The code reader will be a very nice tool to have. I use mine at every oil change to see what's up.

 

Got my digital code reader from summit. I will run codes in next few days

I replaced the battery with a Duracell from Sam’s. So far so good. I also went to a local Lkq and got a new dipstick and oil cap. Went to advanced and got a new fuel filter and coil connector. I will install all of those soon.

the reason from getting new dipstick is it was broken on tip. Not sure if it’s stuck in the pan or not. Is this a big deal?

Drove the truck another 60 miles today. Still sucking gas and driving bad. A buddy of mine has a 93, and said he saw something on replacing the Map sensor.

 

Ran codes today

122
TPS below minimum voltage

327
EVP/EPT circuit below minimum voltage

522
vehicle not in neutral in KOEO

565
canister purge solenoid circuit fault.

No clue what any of these things are. I will do some research. Oh, and the truck was in neutral with the e-brake on, so don’t know why that code came up?

also, haven’t had a chance to replace fuel filter or coil electrical connecter.

 

Code 122: there is a specific testing method for the TPS. See attached PDF. Credit to subford for the document.

Code 327 / 565: emissions related. There is a large black plastic box near front passenger side of engine. It has rubber hose to gas tanks and second hose to throttle body. It is controlled by a round thing about the size of your fist that's nestled in the intake manifold "tunnel". Make sure it's plugged in.

Code 522: you have to keep clutch pushed in during test. A lot of people bypass the clutch switch when it goes bad. If you can start your truck without clutch in you'll always have that code. If you have an automatic... I'm not sure what the implications are.

 

Update on the truck. I was able to do a few things today. I replaced fuel filter, new coil connector, new Throttle position sensor, cleaned the throttle body and IDle air controller, and replaced the throttle body gasket.

Truck idles much smoother. It is even peppier and more responsive m, but it still has the miss. It continues to buck and sputter under full throttle.

A few things that I noticed while working. The two vacuum lines on top of throttle body have been capped off. No clue what they are. It appears a lot of vacuum lines have been bypassed. I need to get a Haynes manual and just go through everything. No clue if this is the problem or not, or if these things are not a necessity.

Also, those fuel filter retaining clips are stupid and cheap. I couldn’t get the filter on, and saw the clips were messed up. Took awhile to research and find out they make the replacement clips. I had to go to store and get a pack of them. They mangle up too easy.

 

The two vacuum lines on top of the throttle body go to a black canister next to the battery (not the coffee can). That canister collects fuel vapor from the fuel tanks and periodically sends them to the throttle body where they are taken in by the engine and burned. You should use them if the canister is still there.

 

 

[QUOTE=All in tiger 888Also, I’m interested to know more about that rail that runs parallel to the fuel injectors that the vacuum line isn’t attached to in the picture above. May have to try and find one in a salvage yard
[/QUOTE]