I see no reason for the dana 60; the TTBs work just fine.
If you have tire wear, you'll probably have to replace some bushings in the leaf springs and center mount... cheap, but somewhat of a pain.

 

Tried to delete this post.

 

I also noticed that the factory Stanadyne fuel/water separator mounted on the driver side firewall has been bypassed. The fuel/water separator mounted forward on the block is from a 7.3L with a cast aluminum bowl/collector on the bottom. Is this common? Since I started it it runs like a champ.

 

More advice please. Where do I find the I.D.'s on the front and rear axle housings.

 

Hello,
I'd like to suggest that you go with 235/85R16 tires, because with the 265's the chance is much bigger that the walls between the tires on the back, will touch on the bottom where they bellow out, and so destroy your sidewalls.

just my .02 cts

 

i agree with Bart. the 235 is a better choice for a dually truck, the 265's will give you sidewall rub with any kind of weight in it.

 

I am waiting for the fuel/water separator to be delivered. I plan on using (off-road high sulfur diesel) to fill the new filter. Is this a good,bad, or ugly idea?

 

Thanks for all the good advice! Macrobb, TJC, and Bart. Instead of making guesstimates. I'm able to make edumacated decisions...

 

If you have found high Sulphur off road fuel. it six years old, as all diesel sold in the USA is ulsd...their is no difference in fuel except the dye except in cali where they oxygenate the diesel,...it will pull any thing you put behind it...just slowly...don't be in a hurry.

 

i fill the fuel filter with automatic trans fluid.

 

Would it be a good idea to put some seafoam in with the off-road diesel?

 

Go Marines! Sempre Fi!

 

No more than any other diesel... I'd just add powerservice or another normal lubricity additive just because - it's cheap and won't hurt anything.

Also, I've successfully run nearly 50 gallons 6+ year old diesel I found in a tank I bought...Smelled OK, so I figured it'd probably run just fine. And it did.

 

After changing the oil/filter, air filter, cutting out the soup bowl, new fuel/water separator I just found the block is stamped 7.3D U2 U523969*. I'm glad that the new parts are common between the 6.9 and 7.3. So, the transplanted 7.3 is connected to the T-19 4 spd. I guess I'll check the front and back differential to verify gear ratios and possible use of a ZF-5 from a 460 or newer IDI.
Any suggestions?

 

I assume the T19 is a Manual?
Why then bother by changing it to a ZF5? (costing money and work to change, let alone you might have to shorten/lengthen the drive shafts)
or does it have a defect?