My IP is moved as far as it will go to the passengers side and it still has trouble above 1500 or so RPM. At around 1500 or starts to stutter and skip and I get some white smoke. I also have to use ether to start and have checked all the glow plugs with a multimeter and they all check good as do the connectors. So I'm assuming its time for a pump and injectors. Any other ideas before I jump in?

 

Have you checked for air intrusion in all the usual places? This kit should eliminate possible air intrusion at your injectors:


Don't forget that the stock water separator is notorious for causing air intrusion. Here's the aftermarket filter I used when I ditched my stock water separator:



If you've done all the basics it might be time for a new IP.

 

The only reason I don't suspect air is when I start it with ether from cold it starts and runs like it should. No rough running like air in the lines and it doesn't start then stop line air in the lines. I do need to check the water seperator but it just doesn't seem like air this time. Would be great if it was.

 

I'm still new to these IDIs. Hopefully someone with more knowledge will chime in. If you've done the basics I don't want to lead you astray by guessing.

 

what year and engine?
electric fuel pump, or stock lift pump?
how many miles on injector pump and injectors?

 

86 6.9
stock lift pump
no idea on mileage of pump or injectors

 

The two options you have are replace the IP/injectors immediately, or do it later.

In the mean time, one "workaround" you can do is to skip the IP gear one tooth "ahead"(clockwise when looking at it), which will give you an extra 7 degrees of advance. Then you can fine-tune it with the normal IP rotation/adjustment.

 

I've heard of this but to be honest it kinda scares me. And I'm not so sure it hasn't already been done as the timing marks on the housing are WAY off. I'll get a picture of them and post it.

When doing this I'll take the housing loose, raise it up, turn the pump one tooth, and put it back right? When you say clockwise when looking at it you mean standing in front of the truck? Thanks. I knew if anybody would know Macrobb would

 

Yeah, it ought to scare you. Keeps you from screwing up too badly(I hope) :P

Yup. Think about how you rotate the pump to advance it(top towards the passenger side). So, you rotate the gear the opposite way(top towards the driver's side).

What you are basically doing is just making up for the IP's missing advance, by giving it more 'base timing'. You are at the "driving by feel" stage of timing, so just make adjustments and see how it does.

That being said... MAKE MARKS. Rotate the engine to TDC, then mark where the IP gear alignment pin is on the housing. Now, you can always go back to where you are now, or at least get close.

 

What is your opinion of using a used pump from carpart? I found one for $150 and they say it's good. Now I understand that's like listening to a car salesman but is it worth the chance? I don't know if they have the injectors or not. Is this any more risky then having mine rebuilt at around $300?

 

Just my opinion, but why would you roll the dice on a used IP? The one in your truck is "used" and you're having trouble with it.

If you can find a reputable place to rebuild your IP that would probably be the way to go. I've read mixed reviews about parts store rebuilds. Hopefully someone can give you a contact for a good rebuild shop in your area.

 

i would not use a used injector pump or injectors. yea, the engine runs. but how good? the one you get may just be worse than the one you have.

 

True. There's a place I've heard of in Marietta GA called Turbo Diesel that deals some with idi's. That's about 35 miles south of me. Anybody know anything about them?

 

from what i can see on the internet, they are more dodge/cummins boys than Ford IDI.
R&D IDI performance: Injection Pumps
and Conestoga Diesel: fuel injection injection pump injection pump rebuilding injection pump repair, Conestoga Diesel Injection Fuel Injection and Turbocharger Rebuilding. The Moose Pump people! Willow Street, PA Ford
are the two most recommended injector pump re-builders.
they both cost more at around $700, but you get what you pay for.
Justin at R&D and Mel at Conestoge replace everything in the pumps, including the rotary heads..
others will just replace some parts and call the pump rebuilt, but they do not touch the head.

and the rotary head is the most critical part, and the one that is usually wore out.

 

I totally agree with everything said here.