The DIYMechanic Step by Step Mod Results Thread
#46
#48
Yeah, that's a bit much. You're just "regrouping" right now. It's for the best, I'm sure.
I spent a couple hours on the truck last night was able to get the exhaust manifolds off the truck.
You can clearly see where both sides were leaking on the rearmost cylinder.
I'm going to have a buddy of mine flatten them out with his surface grinder, then I plan to reinstall with some high temp silicone (thanks, Aaron for the recommendation - I've found that same recommendation in a couple old threads I've been able to locate on the interwebz). Actually, the job wasn't really as bad as I thought it might be. All but one of the bolts came out with a socket and swivel, working through the wheel well with the fender liner in place. Had one bolt head round off before I was able to break it loose, but I was able to reach in and cut it off with a cutoff wheel. Unfortunately, I'll likely loose the weekend going this route, which kills me, but it saves me $150 over having the local machine shop machine the faces (sheesh guys, I can buy brand new manifolds for barely more than that). I'll use the time to remove the couple bolts that are stuck in the head, maybe clean the EBPV tube, and work on some other projects. At any rate, progress is being made.
All the rest of the parts (exhaust, turbo wheel, tuner, tunes, injectors, o-rings, HPOP and gasket) are sitting on the bench in a neat little pile just waiting... Seems that pile should be a lot bigger for what it cost.
I spent a couple hours on the truck last night was able to get the exhaust manifolds off the truck.
You can clearly see where both sides were leaking on the rearmost cylinder.
I'm going to have a buddy of mine flatten them out with his surface grinder, then I plan to reinstall with some high temp silicone (thanks, Aaron for the recommendation - I've found that same recommendation in a couple old threads I've been able to locate on the interwebz). Actually, the job wasn't really as bad as I thought it might be. All but one of the bolts came out with a socket and swivel, working through the wheel well with the fender liner in place. Had one bolt head round off before I was able to break it loose, but I was able to reach in and cut it off with a cutoff wheel. Unfortunately, I'll likely loose the weekend going this route, which kills me, but it saves me $150 over having the local machine shop machine the faces (sheesh guys, I can buy brand new manifolds for barely more than that). I'll use the time to remove the couple bolts that are stuck in the head, maybe clean the EBPV tube, and work on some other projects. At any rate, progress is being made.
All the rest of the parts (exhaust, turbo wheel, tuner, tunes, injectors, o-rings, HPOP and gasket) are sitting on the bench in a neat little pile just waiting... Seems that pile should be a lot bigger for what it cost.
Were you look at Dorman manifolds? Our favorite sponsor has them on his site for 400. A piece. Mine are so pitted, I would like to buy new. But 800 for manifolds!!?? Lord.
#49
That's my Stanley tape measure an in the US we lay out wood framing (in most instances) with the studs on 16" centers. Since the tape measure is a carpenter's tool, the 16" increments are all highlighted in red to make laying out framing for a wall easier. I take it the standards are different in Mexico?
#50
Note: I Did Not verify that these part numbers match, so don't order them without making sure they're right. I like Amazon, but I'm not sure I trust their parts lookup system just yet. Buyer beware.
#52
Amazon. I hate to undercut our favorite sponsor, but a guy's gotta save where he can. There are plenty of things I would go to them for, but for some stuff, I just gotta "Prime it" and get it done.
https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-674-38...haust+manifold
https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-674-38..._&dpSrc=detail
Note: I Did Not verify that these part numbers match, so don't order them without making sure they're right. I like Amazon, but I'm not sure I trust their parts lookup system just yet. Buyer beware.
https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-674-38...haust+manifold
https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-674-38..._&dpSrc=detail
Note: I Did Not verify that these part numbers match, so don't order them without making sure they're right. I like Amazon, but I'm not sure I trust their parts lookup system just yet. Buyer beware.
Has anyone actually used the Dorman manifolds? I hate to say it, but for those prices you could replace them almost 4 times before you get to the price of Motorcrafts.
#53
#54
Ive used the Dorman manifolds on all the 6.0 Chevys and GMC´s at work and and 1 5.4 2v F250 and they seem good quality minus all the rough innards other than that they are good, how good will they be on our trucks? No clue. Because i resurfaced my exhaust manifolds when i rebuild the engine.
Stock 6.0 chevy exhaust manifold are real thin at the matting surface and they warp and snap the bolts easy, what I found out is that the Dorman were actually thicker than the OEM ones so +1 on Dorman.
Stock 6.0 chevy exhaust manifold are real thin at the matting surface and they warp and snap the bolts easy, what I found out is that the Dorman were actually thicker than the OEM ones so +1 on Dorman.
#56
Manifolds are fixed. The job really wasn't as bad as I expected (having done 5.4 manifolds in the past I imagined a similar experience here). Pulled them both off in about 2 hours, had a good friend and neighbor machine them flat, cleaned the heads with a scotchbrite ro-loc pad, smeared the heads with red RTV, and slapped it all back together. Let it sit for 24 hours before driving it. Maybe it's just me being overly sensitive and wanting to justify the effort, but it seems to run better already.
At any rate, I weighed the truck on the scales at work this morning (7520 pounds with me in the cab) and I plan to load the trailer, get a weight again this afternoon and then do the first round of testing this evening.
I plan to do the following sequence for testing as it seems to most closely resemble most guys' progression as they mad their trucks:
-Stock (as much as possible)
-Intake and Exhaust
-Chip
-Delete the EBPV
-Billet Turbo Wheel
-Intercooler
-Stage 1 Injectors (with the appropriate tunes)
-17* HPOP
Each "run" will be done with the truck at full operating temperature, over the same route (a big hill near my place). I plan to measure EGT up the hill from a set speed, and mat the throttle to see what the speed at the peak of the hill will be. Planning on a set speed (maybe 45 MPH) at the base of the hill in 4th gear (direct). I'd also like to measure turbo spool up by starting at around 1500 RPM and plotting RPM and Boost against each other. I figure that will be a good test of the billet wheel, and I'm curious to see how it compares to stock.
Any objections to that sequence or method? Any other input?
At any rate, I weighed the truck on the scales at work this morning (7520 pounds with me in the cab) and I plan to load the trailer, get a weight again this afternoon and then do the first round of testing this evening.
I plan to do the following sequence for testing as it seems to most closely resemble most guys' progression as they mad their trucks:
-Stock (as much as possible)
-Intake and Exhaust
-Chip
-Delete the EBPV
-Billet Turbo Wheel
-Intercooler
-Stage 1 Injectors (with the appropriate tunes)
-17* HPOP
Each "run" will be done with the truck at full operating temperature, over the same route (a big hill near my place). I plan to measure EGT up the hill from a set speed, and mat the throttle to see what the speed at the peak of the hill will be. Planning on a set speed (maybe 45 MPH) at the base of the hill in 4th gear (direct). I'd also like to measure turbo spool up by starting at around 1500 RPM and plotting RPM and Boost against each other. I figure that will be a good test of the billet wheel, and I'm curious to see how it compares to stock.
Any objections to that sequence or method? Any other input?
#57
That's my Stanley tape measure an in the US we lay out wood framing (in most instances) with the studs on 16" centers. Since the tape measure is a carpenter's tool, the 16" increments are all highlighted in red to make laying out framing for a wall easier. I take it the standards are different in Mexico?
#58
I was really hoping to get the first run made this evening, but it just didn't work out. Got the skid steer (paper weight) loaded up on the trailer and weighed. Truck / trailer combo weighs in at 14,400 pounds, so the trailer weighs about 6,900 pounds. I wish I could add about another ton to that, but it should be sufficient to make the data legitimate.
Test logged a couple runs on the way home and yeah, I wish I would have found and fixed those leaking exhaust manifolds a long time ago...
I'll save the numbers for when I report the first run but needless to say, for a stock truck it runs pretty doggone good!
Test logged a couple runs on the way home and yeah, I wish I would have found and fixed those leaking exhaust manifolds a long time ago...
I'll save the numbers for when I report the first run but needless to say, for a stock truck it runs pretty doggone good!
#60
Ive used the Dorman manifolds on all the 6.0 Chevys and GMC´s at work and and 1 5.4 2v F250 and they seem good quality minus all the rough innards other than that they are good, how good will they be on our trucks? No clue. Because i resurfaced my exhaust manifolds when i rebuild the engine.
Stock 6.0 chevy exhaust manifold are real thin at the matting surface and they warp and snap the bolts easy, what I found out is that the Dorman were actually thicker than the OEM ones so +1 on Dorman.
Stock 6.0 chevy exhaust manifold are real thin at the matting surface and they warp and snap the bolts easy, what I found out is that the Dorman were actually thicker than the OEM ones so +1 on Dorman.
I was really hoping to get the first run made this evening, but it just didn't work out. Got the skid steer (paper weight) loaded up on the trailer and weighed. Truck / trailer combo weighs in at 14,400 pounds, so the trailer weighs about 6,900 pounds. I wish I could add about another ton to that, but it should be sufficient to make the data legitimate.
Test logged a couple runs on the way home and yeah, I wish I would have found and fixed those leaking exhaust manifolds a long time ago...
I'll save the numbers for when I report the first run but needless to say, for a stock truck it runs pretty doggone good!
Test logged a couple runs on the way home and yeah, I wish I would have found and fixed those leaking exhaust manifolds a long time ago...
I'll save the numbers for when I report the first run but needless to say, for a stock truck it runs pretty doggone good!