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Need urgent help, stuck on interstate with anemic truck

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  #16  
Old 10-22-2017, 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Colorado350
OEM GLOW PLUGS And SENSORS ONLY!
I know there is a message in there somewhere, but for the life of me I can't figure it out...
 
  #17  
Old 10-22-2017, 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Sous
I know there is a message in there somewhere, but for the life of me I can't figure it out...

the OEM glow plugs for these are Motorcraft ZD-11, I have replaced both batteries however
 
  #18  
Old 10-22-2017, 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Jaime74656
...I have a dual gauge set up...
What are the gauges for? What info do they give?
 
  #19  
Old 10-22-2017, 10:34 PM
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Made it safely home immediate crisis over

Originally Posted by dn29626
What are the gauges for? What info do they give?
correction I have a dual fuel/pyro set up (however they need to be reworked due to a possible grounding issue) but when they work they read around 60ish psi

update: we are safe back home so the urgency has been stepped down and both batteries replaced, truck starts like new, still has running trouble but that is now looking like one of two possibilities, bad fuel or something in the tank clogging up the pick up screens/foot so we're going to drain the tank as much as possible and try to inspect the pick up and associated screens and do at least the harpoon mod (will try and do the hitch mod if able but I'm not good at working with steel lines)
 
  #20  
Old 10-23-2017, 07:13 AM
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I would have unplugged the ICP sensor when the problem occurred. Typically... when an ICP sensor fails - it reads a false high. This false high tricks the PCM to lower the IPR signal, giving you a for-real anemic truck.

This may not be it, but it's worth keeping it in mind if the problem pops its head up for detection again.
 
  #21  
Old 10-23-2017, 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Tugly
I would have unplugged the ICP sensor when the problem occurred. Typically... when an ICP sensor fails - it reads a false high. This false high tricks the PCM to lower the IPR signal, giving you a for-real anemic truck.

This may not be it, but it's worth keeping it in mind if the problem pops its head up for detection again.

good thought, I didn't think of that (was a bit in a hurry when this went down) I'll give it a try, also I will look opt too
 
  #22  
Old 10-23-2017, 06:14 PM
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i went out side to check the IPR, and the stupid tin nut is still in place (wonder why International would make such a horrid design), next time I need to use the truck I will drive it around and then try removing the ICP when/if the issue comes back.
 
  #23  
Old 10-24-2017, 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Jaime74656
....

update: we are safe back home so the urgency has been stepped down and both batteries replaced, truck starts like new, still has running trouble but that is now looking like one of two possibilities, bad fuel or something in the tank clogging up the pick up screens/foot so we're going to drain the tank as much as possible and try to inspect the pick up and associated screens and do at least the harpoon mod (will try and do the hitch mod if able but I'm not good at working with steel lines)

My vote is bad fuel and/or trash in the fuel. If it was trash which got displaced by blowing back through the line, it WILL come again. I've been down this exact road several times. If it comes back after cleaning the tank out, then it suggests a weakening pump, and I would just go ahead and proactively replace the pump.

Also, if you're planning to do the H&H (and it's really not hard to do), for your own sake, go ahead and purchase a NEW pickup foot from either Clay (Riffraff) or Bob (Diesel Orings). Your stock foot has been soaking in diesel for a looong time now, and it is like already disintegrated and all that plastic "kibbles and bits" needs to get manually removed from the tank. Get the part before you drop the tank... you'll need it.
 
  #24  
Old 10-28-2017, 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by F250_
My vote is bad fuel and/or trash in the fuel. If it was trash which got displaced by blowing back through the line, it WILL come again. I've been down this exact road several times. If it comes back after cleaning the tank out, then it suggests a weakening pump, and I would just go ahead and proactively replace the pump.

Also, if you're planning to do the H&H (and it's really not hard to do), for your own sake, go ahead and purchase a NEW pickup foot from either Clay (Riffraff) or Bob (Diesel Orings). Your stock foot has been soaking in diesel for a looong time now, and it is like already disintegrated and all that plastic "kibbles and bits" needs to get manually removed from the tank. Get the part before you drop the tank... you'll need it.

sounds like a plan, however, I have since driven the truck, poured cold water on the icp which clears up the issue for 20 or so minutes of driving, also pulled out the connection and looks to have oil in it so I'm suspicious of the ICP going south on me and will be getting a new motorcraft unit (or one for international) as well
 
  #25  
Old 11-04-2017, 04:51 PM
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ok guys and gals, got good news and not so good news....good news is the truck is at least working better-ish...and got some new Motorcraft goodness to the tune of $163 out the door....bad news is after taking the 5 minutes to replace the ICP the truck still persists to have the same issues, the issue only happens when it is at operating temps from what I can see, also when I empty the fuel bowel I can generally get it to crank and turn over (sometimes after a bit of long cranking.

not sure if this info will help but I will give it just in case, when I first had the issue (time of first post) truck had been running ok, shifted (not sure into what gear) but it made a squeel type noise almost like a belt slipping for a brief second and then continued on for another 20 minutes and once I hit the first hill on the interstate is when it started having anemic power troubles. I believe the brief squeel happened around 45 or so MPH...also the SES Light is now off so I think the old icp had something to do with this issue it seems
 
  #26  
Old 11-04-2017, 05:49 PM
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Turbo blade hitting the housing? Bad fan clutch? These can make those squeeling noises you describe. The hard hot start could be just a bad IPR.
 
  #27  
Old 11-04-2017, 08:05 PM
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Truck hasnt made any furthur noises since the inital start of this issue. when cold I do hear the truck making its growling noise like usual too, the SES light is no longer active so I think the ICP fixed something at least.
 
  #28  
Old 11-04-2017, 10:29 PM
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Originally Posted by z31freakify
Turbo blade hitting the housing? Bad fan clutch? These can make those squeeling noises you describe. The hard hot start could be just a bad IPR.
x2 for the turbo.
 
  #29  
Old 11-04-2017, 11:25 PM
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re: the bad batch of fuel theory posted earlier

Jaime, I recall not too long ago you were experimenting with putting motor oil and tranny fluid in your fuel tank. Have you done any more of this lately?

Just a thought, in case this might have something to do with your issues.
 
  #30  
Old 11-04-2017, 11:36 PM
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The EBPV if functioning makes funny noises/squealing sounds. The IPR is a possibility. So are the injector o-rings. The only code that usually comes up when those are leaking or blown is the ICP is low. What can cause that is the oil is leaking past the o-rings and the HPOP can't keep up. When the injector o-rings leak, oil makes it's way into the fuel system. If you've got a 1000 miles or more on the present fuel filter, you could pull it and see if it's black. If it's black, then oil is getting into your fuel.
 


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