My 06 was having issues when cold. Had the shop keep it overnight, and cold start it. Turns out I have 3 injectors sticking. So, my question is this: how hard are these to change out? I’d like to just do the 3 that are bad now, since I can’t afford to change all of them right now. Thanks!

 

I just changed one in mine, in roughly 2 hours. On the drivers side. #2. But, it didn't seem to help my situation. But, it still took just shy of 2 hours.

 

If your in for one on a side adding more would be about 30 minutes more for each
one R&R time. The thing that takes the most is the oil rail each injector past that
is really just the brush and blow out of the bore and hold down bolt hole.

 

I guess "hard" is a relative term depending on your mechanical experience, Pat. They're really not that bad, even with just hand tools. IMHO it's more about having the correct tools.

 

Well, I’ve done plenty of engine work just not on a diesel. Tools aren’t an issue, unless there is something special. Wonder if anyone has posted videos of this on YouTube? Have to check that out!

Appreciate the reply’s, guys!

 

Just removing valve covers, I found the stubby gear ratchet 12?mm invaluable for the passenger side bottom middle VC bolts. Swivels and extensions can get other bolts. Never removed the rails so have no experience to offer beyond VCs.

 

Doing the injectors on the passenger side it’s always easier to remove the inner fender well.

 

You need to qualify that statement with "If you don't have fender flairs."

The real time saver is the cover on the Evaporator box. Once you have it off
then you have very easy access to the passenger side and don't have to use
the very short tools or beat the back of you knuckles red and raw.

Now if you have access to an odd assortment of tools like what I have you
can do the job without removing the A/C cover or the fender liner. The only
one that can be a pain without an offset torquing adaptor is the one oil rail
bolt in the back.

One good thing to do how ever you go about is to use captive torx bits.
You don't want to have to fish one out of the lower engine That is where
they head most times if they fall out of the holder. Just ask Rusty.

 

Thanks for the tips, men!

 

Check out DieselTechRon's videos on Youtube... he has most of the info you are looking for.

Richard

 

Thanks Richard, I'll do that!

 

You will need a VERY short T30 1/4 drive socket and a flex head ratcheting 12mm and a 10mm helps. Also need a long shank T40 for the injector hold down but I think that has changed over the years.

Pretty easy job.

Blue point makes the short T30, or you can get a set of torx sockets from Napa that has a T30 that is short enough.

 

There is absolutely no reason to remove the evap cover to replace injectors. It is more of a hassle than it is just working around it.

 

The last time I did this was the new truck and there was no way
I was going to live with that SMELL. The cover is not really that
hard to remove when you know where the screws are and have a tool
to pop the captive clip off. but like I said it was more to get at both
sides of the evaporator to give it a really good cleaning. I can say that
is smells so much nicer in the cab now after that.

But the point is I would pull the evaporator cover before ever trying
to do a fender liner. The reason is the factory flairs. The liner is under
the lip and last time I tried did not want to come out at all. When I pulled
the fender on the wrecked truck the flair was only hanging on by the lower
edge. That one was not too hard to move.

 

I would totally agree with this. By the time you get the fender liner and/or evap hsg out of the way the injector is out. I will admit that it helps to have long skinny arms for a couple of the VC bolts.