Has anyone ever needed to replace their bonded slip yoke dampener on their aluminum drive shaft? Part# F7UZ-4841-AA ? Mine on my '03 E250 at 213k is pushing out like a harmonic balancer does. I'm thinking about getting my driveshaft serviced and I bet anything the shop tells me not to worry about that dampener. But in my mind it probably wouldn't hurt to replace it but at $220? That hurts!

 

I've taken them off completely with no ill effects. I'd do that first before committing that kind of $$$ for a new one.

 

My tailshaft bushing on my trans is worn out. It's got about 1/4" of deflection. I recently switched to 4.10's from 3.73's and now the added driveshaft speed is causing a vibration at 84mph, that never occurred with the stock 3.73's. Guess I'll need to get my trans rebuilt and just do the driveshaft at that time, not bad for 213k on the clock.

 

Just change the tailshaft bushing. Not hard to do. Pull the driveshaft, then unbolt the tailhousing and pull it off the transmission. The bushing is split, you can drive a sharp screw driver between the bushing and housing to remove it. Then drive the new bushing back in. You'll need the new bushing and the tailhousing gasket or sealer in place of the gasket. And a new tailshaft seal. I would coat the bushing with moly grease help break it in.

 

baddad457,
Thanks for posting that. I need to get mine done and wondered if it could be done w/o any special tools. From what I've read, I was thinking it would be easier to have it done or buy a complete housing of the bid web site.

 

Man, I never thought about that. I glanced at it the other day and didn't think I could do that myself cause I didn't know that it comes apart. I just watched a video, looks cake! My trans still shifts pretty darn good, I guess I'll order a kit and do it ASAP!

 

Nothing tricky about removing it, just work the bushing towards the middle of the hole by wedging the screw driver between the bushing and the housing, the split in it lets the wedging to get started.