I had no choice but to rent a car hauler and tow a 95 F-250 crew cab with an 8 ft bed. My truck is a 08 F-150 4x4, 4.6L engine with extended cab and a 6 ft box. Now it randomly stalls, I have replaced everything the scan tool said including the fuel pump. It is now showing no codes and the problem still exists. I'm thinking I fried a wire somewhere, any suggestions on where to start looking???

 

Me thinks you would do better to look in the gas F150 forum for this answer... think you will get better results. I'll ask a moderator to do it for you.....

 

moved to the forum for your year. I don't think that towing a 95 F250 is what caused your problem. That truck is probably around 7K.

 

It is now showing no codes and the problem still exists............


explain exactly what the truck is doing and when it is doing it... "stall" is not a precise definition.

 

Is the original fuel filter still installed?

 

It acts like it has run out of gas and after re-starting and moving about 10 feet it will stall again. After doing this for about 2 dozen times it will finally start and run like nothing is wrong. I have changed the fuel filter, the oxygen sensors, the fuel regulator module, the fuel pump, and forgive my garage mechanic skills but I also replaced some component on the fuel rail. As well as all left bank coils. now I'm thinking I may have fried a wire somewhere and when it makes connection the truck runs fine. If I'm right I don't know where to start looking for this fried wire??? Any advice would be appreciated!!!
When driving I lose all power and power steering so I have to coast to the side of the road where I attempt to re-start the truck. I don't know how else to explain it other than it just randomly DIES!!!

 

You have touched many things. It might be worth an hour of time to just go back and triple check EVERY LITTLE THING to make sure it is all connected correctly. Stuff happens sometimes.

 

Very vague-- but this is one symptom of a bad throttle body . The gas pedal tells the pcm where its at, the pcm sends coded pulses to the throttle body circuit card attached to motor . The throttle lever has a tps on the one end that checks the status back to the pcm ,if they don't agree the pcm shuts it down quick .
Mine failed , I replaced tps and cleaned throttle body but it still acted up . Bought a new one oem on ebay for $200 that was it .
If that card bad or motor sticking its the same thing .
The other thing is a bad FPDM module above the rear axle . they corrode and crack open , check yours . Very very common . Clean connectors too .

 

Check (and replace) your FPDM (fuel pump drive module) located on the rear frame cross member above the spare tire (driver side half of the cross member). This sounds exactly like what happens when that ****s the bed.

 

I third the FPDM recomendation. Drop the spare tire and do a visual inspection. If it is corroded/cracked, replace it. (remove the module and check the back, often the back corrodes through first) If it visually looks good, I would Check/test the wiring/connectors for corrosion before replacing the module. Do you know if the module has been replaced before? They are a quite high failure item, especially in the salt belt. Also, if the current module doesn't have standoffs to space the module out from the frame, make sure the replacement does. If the aluminum body of the module is touching the steel frame, it causes bi-metal corrosion, and can also trap dirt, which accelerates corrosion.

 

Thank you for replying to my problem, I have replaced the FPDM twice now thinking the new one may have been faulty. I am going to try the throttle control module today, if it corrects my problem I will let you know. It is running a lot better after changing the Fuel Rail Pressure Module for the second time now. Am still having a problem with the left bank especially cylinder 2 so I am going to replace all 8 spark plugs.

 

I got my truck to quit stalling out!!!! On mine it was the Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor. Bought a motorcraft replacement part for just over $100.. Other than a shorted out wire going to it, the only other part I found that can cause your truck to stall is the Vapor Canister Purge Valve. With either of these parts failing your truck will randomly stall and start right back up again. I hope this helps everyone with a stalling out problem.

 

purge valve would throw a code. fuel rail sensor should as well.

 

The fuel rail sensor did throw a code but I bought one from Amazon for $17., truck ran great for two days before stalling again. It was out of stock at the other on-line places I tried, finally found it in stock. The code definition was bad rail sensor or a shorted wire. But not everyone has access to a scan tool, I found the Purge valve problem while searching for a slow gas fill problem. It made sense so I changed it as well after my truck quit stalling out, it was a $40. part. Hope this was helpful!!