Also, on the ARP studs the directions say go right to 210FT-lbs....Shouldn't I do it like 70ft lbs in order until i get to 210?

 

Most do it in increments of either 50-70 ft lbs and a few shops in my area torque them to 220 ft/lbs for a margin of error.

 

Got the heads back, blocks all cleaned, injectors all have new o rings, HPOP is in, brand new oil cooler is in.

Question my biggest concern is installing the injectors and oil rails I don’t want any leaks there.

Can i use assembly lube or is that to thick?

I have a bottle of it for when I rebuild dirt bikes and quads and it works great.

I don’t want to damage the top injector o ring where the nipple cup goes in since the injectors are only a couple months old.

 

I would use the same engine oil that you use in the truck for the nipple cups.

Rob

 

Good advice Rob

 

Was gonna say, this is why people and I believe even Ford suggest filling the tops of the injectors with oil before putting the rails back on.

 

Ok thanks guys!

One last question when it comes to torquing the rocker arm bolts down should that be done BEFORE or AFTER the stud is torqued down?

Or does it make sense to torque them down BEFORE and rechecking torque AFTER?

 

Torq head styd first

 

There is a specific sequence that you use to install the head onto the block and you should follow that closely. If you don't have access to all that information I bet Sean (Yahiko) can get it for you. I'm not sure it's in the tech folder, but it might be. I used the Navistar assembly manual with the updated Ford headbolt torque tightening sequence and ARP torque specs.

 

Glad to see you had the heads checked out. I do believe that quite often when you read that people have had to redo the head gaskets a second or third time the heads were not flat.
The main thing I would be sure is to take your time when torqueing the heads. The other piece of advice is CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN.
Make sure you use lots of lube on the ARP studs.
If I remember correctly I had to use a special adapter to torque ONE head stud if you are doing this with the cab on.
I have also read that you should use the 6.4 pushrods( I didn't realize this till afterwards)
If you have any questions while assembling post it right away as I find most members here will help out fairly quickly.


Rob

 

Got the heads all torqued down, valve covers are back on, up pipe is back in.....

as far as the back bolt next to the fire wall on the driverside. Unbolt the trans mount and jack it up and you can torque it down no problem.

I used the entire supply of the arp lube

 

Truck runs!

3 small issues though. 1 the oil filter house where the bolt goes thru cracked so it’s leaking badly. 2 while checking the oil leak I managed to break off the little nipple on the radiator 3 the up pipes at the manifolds are leaking. I want to figure out 1 and 2 before I worry about 3

 

Good to hear it runs again. It is a nice feeling of accomplishment. Be sure to monitor all data with something like a torque pro app. As for your questions:

1. Not sure how to repair this one.

2. Look at youtube as there are videos on using a pipe tap and installing a hose barb- way cheaper than a new rad.

3. I had this as well when I did my head gaskets. It took some tweaking but I finally got them sealed. I also used stainless steel bolts/nuts in case I ever had to remove anything again on the exhaust.

Rob

 

You can see where the oil filter housing cracked.

Any one have any idea why that would happen?

I was able to repair the nipple on the radiator thanks for that tip.

I have another oil filter housing from a 2005 but 1 fuel line is different. I wonder if I could just change that fuel like out all together?

 

Alright I got the 05 filter housing with the 05 fuel line no problem.

Drove the truck and pulled in my drive way and had a fuel knock like it was out of fuel. Took the fuel filter cap off and it was full of air....that doesn’t impress me none.

What’s that mean injector isn’t seated right? Once I re installed the cap truck has been idling now for 20 minutes. Sometimes it hiccups and IPR goes to 29% but then clears up assuming that’s still from air in the system