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No Crank-No Start-Sometimes

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  #1  
Old 10-12-2017, 05:34 PM
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No Crank-No Start-Sometimes

Our 2002 Excursion has started to act up. Sometimes when we turn the key nothing happens. I have replaced the neutral safety switch, had the starter checked and checked the 2 torx head bolts that hold the shift tube.

Last night I unplugged the neutral safety switch and plugged it back in and it started up fine. Started fine this morning but after work no crank. After several tries with the ignition it finally fired. Got it home and it starts fine.

I hate the thought of being stranded and towing it home. Any suggestions?
 
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  #2  
Old 10-12-2017, 06:40 PM
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Any codes present?

Also, what is your theft light doing when it doesn't start?
 
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  #3  
Old 10-12-2017, 07:05 PM
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No CEL, Not throwing any codes that I can tell from my scanner, it is a budget model. So far it has been starting the last few times I've tried. I don't want to drive anywhere and be stranded.
 
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Old 10-13-2017, 08:23 AM
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Sounds as though tiy have a wiring issue or Ignition Switch issue since the problem is intermittent.
 
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Old 10-13-2017, 10:37 AM
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if its anything like my 5.4 I'd check the linkage bolts under the dash . Maybe loctite them if they are loose.
 
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Old 10-13-2017, 07:06 PM
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You can test if it cranks better in neutral.
 
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Old 10-13-2017, 09:54 PM
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I changed out the ignition switch to no avail. No crank in neutral. I sprayed that electrical contact cleaner where the neutral safety switch plugs in, that didn't help either. I'm at a loss and will most likely have it towed to the shop next week unless I can miraculously figure out what the issue is. I don't have a multimeter to check things out.
 
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Old 10-14-2017, 01:22 PM
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IIRC the transmission range selector cable has an adjustment on the trans. Like a wheel to fine tune the position of the cable. Maybe that's backed off a bit so the position is borderline. I've never even seen mine so I'm just regurgitating internet stuff here. YMMV.
 
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Old 10-14-2017, 01:59 PM
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Check the ignition fuse in the fuse box below the steering wheel. I dont remember what number it is but is in the middle. It could be just loose. The fuse box Ford put in these trucks are a very poor design. Sometines the fuse will just work loose enough so that it doesn't make contact.
Don't ask me how I know !
 
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Old 10-17-2017, 12:59 PM
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Well I had it towed to the shop that specializes in electronics. Turned out to be the Autozone starter that was a year old. I even took it out and had AZ check it out and it came out good twice-I saw it on their testing machine. No more buying rebuilt in China parts for me. The shop will install a higher end brand, I couldn't remember the brand but they have had excellent results from the starter.
 
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Old 10-17-2017, 07:31 PM
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Another word of advice: As much as starters and alternators cost, take it to a shop that specializes in vehicle electronics and have them test it. The tester at Autozone does not do a good job of testing.
 
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Old 10-17-2017, 07:37 PM
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The tester isn't going to find a fault in it when it is functioning properly, these intermittent issues can be hard to find. A multimeter in various spots and trying it until it fails is the only way to be 100% sure of the issue.
 
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Old 10-17-2017, 09:14 PM
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At least you got her fixed.
Thanks for letting us know what you found.
 
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Old 10-17-2017, 09:29 PM
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Go get a genuine Denso Starter from Generator Starter Shop on Hansen Lane in the heights. Big bucks but that thing will crank like there's no tomorrow once winter hits.
 
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Old 10-18-2017, 08:26 AM
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Cleatus is right on this one. I just installed a Denso high torque starter that I bought from CNC Fabrication and it is a beast.

Video of the starter cranking over the engine, clear difference!



Denso on left, OEM on right...





If you decide to use the Denso, keep in mind the mounting surface is thicker than the surface of the OEM starter. I used M10-1.5 x 45mm bolts which provided a full contact mount through the holes and about 2mm out the back. Use locking washers to help prevent the bolts backing out.


 
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