Smoke and 1 plug fouling
#16
10-20-2017, 06:05 PM
If it's chattering, be sure to get your flywheel resurfaced.
Mine would chatter in reverse, and then a few weeks ago while working on something else on the truck, I noticed two missing bell-housing bolts! Then I checked the remaining ones, and one was loose and the others weren't very tight. So I checked the transmission bolts, and they weren't very tight either. I replaced the missing bolts and tightened everything down, and that got rid of the chatter.
Mine would chatter in reverse, and then a few weeks ago while working on something else on the truck, I noticed two missing bell-housing bolts! Then I checked the remaining ones, and one was loose and the others weren't very tight. So I checked the transmission bolts, and they weren't very tight either. I replaced the missing bolts and tightened everything down, and that got rid of the chatter.
#17
10-20-2017, 06:10 PM
I really doubt you have 1 cyl with bad valve seals. Years ago I fought the same thing for a while till I figured out the intake gasket was bad for whatever reason on 1 cyl.
Usually you'll see valve seals causing smoke when you go down a hill coasting not so much on startup. I know I changed seals and it wasn't any better. I ran on it on a hill leaning each way till it smoked like crazy. If you're guides are good there really is nothing wrong with old style umbrella seals, obviously the newer style is better.
Heck some of our old tractors don't even have valve seals. Not saying it's right but that's the way it was back then and they don't spew smoke.
Usually you'll see valve seals causing smoke when you go down a hill coasting not so much on startup. I know I changed seals and it wasn't any better. I ran on it on a hill leaning each way till it smoked like crazy. If you're guides are good there really is nothing wrong with old style umbrella seals, obviously the newer style is better.
Heck some of our old tractors don't even have valve seals. Not saying it's right but that's the way it was back then and they don't spew smoke.
#19
10-20-2017, 07:57 PM
Don't forget the obvious. If a plug is not firing effectively it can become fouled. Make sure the ignition wire is seated on the plug and the distributor. Check the plug gap, the rotor, and cap. Check wire resistance.
I know this sounds like, "did you try unplugging it and plugging it in again." But it is the simple stuff we all tend to overlook.
My last rebuild I had three plugs foul despite running okay. In the rush of the build the wires were not fully seated on the cap. No more fouling once their was actual continuity.
I know this sounds like, "did you try unplugging it and plugging it in again." But it is the simple stuff we all tend to overlook.
My last rebuild I had three plugs foul despite running okay. In the rush of the build the wires were not fully seated on the cap. No more fouling once their was actual continuity.
#20
10-21-2017, 10:40 AM
#21
10-22-2017, 10:26 AM
If it's chattering, be sure to get your flywheel resurfaced.
Mine would chatter in reverse, and then a few weeks ago while working on something else on the truck, I noticed two missing bell-housing bolts! Then I checked the remaining ones, and one was loose and the others weren't very tight. So I checked the transmission bolts, and they weren't very tight either. I replaced the missing bolts and tightened everything down, and that got rid of the chatter.
Mine would chatter in reverse, and then a few weeks ago while working on something else on the truck, I noticed two missing bell-housing bolts! Then I checked the remaining ones, and one was loose and the others weren't very tight. So I checked the transmission bolts, and they weren't very tight either. I replaced the missing bolts and tightened everything down, and that got rid of the chatter.
#22
10-22-2017, 10:48 AM
So the new mechanic only used a camera to look at the cylinder? No compression check? No tests for a vacuum leak? Did he swap plug wires to see if the wire could be bad? Did you use the original wires?
What exactly does "rebuilt" mean? A complete tear down, new crank, rods, pistons, rings, etc.? Rebuild as in use the heads as is? Rebuild meaning new gaskets and soft parts?
Take it back to the rebuilder. 5000 mile warranty is 5000, so expect to pay but at least he knows what was included and excluded in the rebuild.
What exactly does "rebuilt" mean? A complete tear down, new crank, rods, pistons, rings, etc.? Rebuild as in use the heads as is? Rebuild meaning new gaskets and soft parts?
Take it back to the rebuilder. 5000 mile warranty is 5000, so expect to pay but at least he knows what was included and excluded in the rebuild.
#23
10-22-2017, 05:44 PM
So the new mechanic only used a camera to look at the cylinder? No compression check? No tests for a vacuum leak? Did he swap plug wires to see if the wire could be bad? Did you use the original wires?
What exactly does "rebuilt" mean? A complete tear down, new crank, rods, pistons, rings, etc.? Rebuild as in use the heads as is? Rebuild meaning new gaskets and soft parts?
Take it back to the re-builder. 5000 mile warranty is 5000, so expect to pay but at least he knows what was included and excluded in the rebuild.
What exactly does "rebuilt" mean? A complete tear down, new crank, rods, pistons, rings, etc.? Rebuild as in use the heads as is? Rebuild meaning new gaskets and soft parts?
Take it back to the re-builder. 5000 mile warranty is 5000, so expect to pay but at least he knows what was included and excluded in the rebuild.
#24
10-24-2017, 08:35 PM
The oil is more viscous when cold, and on some engines it takes a while for the oil to make its way to the rockers. (I'm not sure about the 390.) As mentioned already, you may be able to learn something by just inspecting the valve stem seals without removing the heads. But it also wouldn't be a bad idea to do a comprehensive compression test of the engine if it hasn't been done recently. You could save the results for future comparisons. If there is a ring or piston problem it will likely show up in the test.
#25
11-10-2017, 04:46 PM
Well that is very common, specially if it had the old umbrella seals on it, replacing them means pulling valve springs, which can be done with heads on and heads off.... heads on naturally is the preffered method and requires the air hose adapter and shop air to keep valve from dropping while your working on it.... 
also if any head work has ever been done on your truck finding the correct valve stem seal size can be some serious detective work.... and you want the new rubber type with spring that dosent require milling on the head...
The new seal can be slightly shorter but must be dam perfect for circumference.... heres where i ended up finding a good match for my FE heads.... use a micrometer to measure the seals you take off as a starting point to get a good match...
https://www.alexsparts.com/
also if any head work has ever been done on your truck finding the correct valve stem seal size can be some serious detective work.... and you want the new rubber type with spring that dosent require milling on the head... The new seal can be slightly shorter but must be dam perfect for circumference.... heres where i ended up finding a good match for my FE heads.... use a micrometer to measure the seals you take off as a starting point to get a good match...
https://www.alexsparts.com/
#26
11-21-2017, 01:44 PM
Found problem!
So the new mechanic only used a camera to look at the cylinder? No compression check? No tests for a vacuum leak? Did he swap plug wires to see if the wire could be bad? Did you use the original wires?
What exactly does "rebuilt" mean? A complete tear down, new crank, rods, pistons, rings, etc.? Rebuild as in use the heads as is? Rebuild meaning new gaskets and soft parts?
Take it back to the rebuilder. 5000 mile warranty is 5000, so expect to pay but at least he knows what was included and excluded in the rebuild.
What exactly does "rebuilt" mean? A complete tear down, new crank, rods, pistons, rings, etc.? Rebuild as in use the heads as is? Rebuild meaning new gaskets and soft parts?
Take it back to the rebuilder. 5000 mile warranty is 5000, so expect to pay but at least he knows what was included and excluded in the rebuild.
#28
11-21-2017, 02:27 PM
Tuned
#29
11-21-2017, 06:53 PM
Actually, Yes you would Win! It was not warped it was a Gasket that did not get set in place properly and eventually slipped outa place enough to start suck-in oil. That was a New Intake, Edelbrock performer in April so should not have been warped. Never overheated the engine so all is fine.
#30
11-21-2017, 07:33 PM
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