Hi, recently got news from my insurance company they they are declaring my 2007 Jay Flight 27BH a total loss.
So this means I need to go shopping for a new trailer with their money.
My needs are a bunk model with a separate "master" bedroom, under 10,000 lbs loaded weight, and max length is around that 28 foot mark (actual length 32 feet I know). A little shorter is better.

Would be awesome if I could get something with a "real" queen 60x80 mattress because that's a major issue with my wife, and I think I'm keeping her longer than the trailer.

A few questions about the current model year:
- What's the equivalent to the Jay Flight 27BH? I don't see that one on the website, seems like the smallest/ Cheapest Jay Flight is the 28BHS. Would the WhiteHawk or Jay Feather be more similar to my "lower end" ten-year-old Jay Flight?

Also, am I reading this right that in terms of price/features in the current Jayco Travel Trailer line it goes Jay Feather -> WhiteHawk ->Jay Flight SLX -> Jay Flight -> Eagle?

I'm not too fussed about fancy interior decorations, but I do care quite a bit about the "bones" of the trailer. I've had to spend some time messing with brakes and suspension on previous trailers, so do the higher versions have stronger frames/axles/brakes or other features that will make for a more reliable unit? I'm not too fussed about a few extra pounds of weight (within reason). Sure seems like the tanks get larger on the higher end units.

Really liking the look of the SLX 242 BHSW. That slide and the U-dinette would make it feel bigger, and the couple of feet shorter would be handy in one spot I am in regularly.

And of course, what other manufacturers are well-regarded for new and nearly-new similar models. I don't think my insurance will restrict me to brand new if the price of the lightly used model is similar or lower.

 

Had a chat with the local Jayco dealer and she was saying that the axles and brakes are "way better" than what would be on my 2007. I know that one is tandem 3500 lb dexter axles. Is there really much improvement with the newer stuff or is that just sales talk?
I guess these newer ones are heavier, so it's probably tandem 5000 lb axles now?

Not surprisingly she was also talking up the 2 year Jayco warranty and how they are more reliable than a different brand she used to sell. They do seem to have a good reputation with people I meet.

 

Trailer axles are rated at 3500lbs each with 14-15" wheels, brake size I think is 10 inch but don't quote me on that.

Next step up would be 5000lbs axles with 15-16" wheels not sure on the brake size but assume the size would increase. 12" maybe?

A Trailer can have a GVWR of nearly 8000lbs with 3500lbs axles, 7000 on the axles and 1000 on the tongue.

I think the more important thing to look for is what the GVWR is on the trailer compared to the rating of the axles. If one could find a 8000-9000# trailer with 5000# axles that would be ideal. It seams manufacturers like to take the ratings right to the max.

There is a sticker located on each axle indicating it's max load capacity. Next time you are RV shopping grab a flashlight and crawl under that bugger and read the axle rating. 5 bolt pattern is generally <3500# 6 bolt pattern would be <5000#.

If you can't find an RV that has heavy enough axles and you are mechanically inclined you can upgrade them on your own. 3500# axle is about $100 each 4000# springs are about $25 each. Brake kits for 3500# axles are about $200 per axle. The issue that might prevent upgrading would be the tire and wheel size would have to fit under the current frame.

 

2017 is the last year they made 27BHS. I currently own the 2016'.
You may still be able to find one left on a lot somewhere?
My front axle is rated at 4400lbs & rear is also 4400 with ST225/75R15D tires.
6180 dry weight & 2070 lbs of cargo.
Really like the layout but I also like the 28BHS for the U-shaped dinnette.
I've read the 25BHS is setup similar and I'm sure a little less in weight!

 

I went on Jayco.com and did see 27BHS is “dealer stock only”
I was on the site about a month ago and the 2018’s didn’t even list 27 BHS, but I guess there was an early run of them
Did you want the slide-out? There seems to be a lot to chose from - and quite a few that are 1/2 ton compatible
Last year I decided to get a 3/4 ton 2015 F-250 super cab long bed 6.2 gasser with only 4,800 miles. It handles the trailer much better, especially with braking, suspension & stability!
I,ve been reading a lot of complaints with the 2018 models, seems they are trying to get them pushed out the door too quickly these days but that’s probably with all RV’s, not just Jayco!
Good luck with your purchase!

 

I found a unit in dealer stock that I have a quote for. Sent the quote to my insurance company and once they approve it, I can shop around a bit for anything around the same price. Would love a u shaped dinette, 80" master bed and a couple feet shorter. Definitely no rush since camping season around here starts in may.

 

3500 and 4400 lb axles both have the same 10x2.25 drums, the 4400 is just a glorified 3500 with a 5k tube and slightly bigger spindle. They are odd ***** and parts are very expensive, avoid them if you can but good luck they seem to be every where now.

I have a Heartland Sundance xlt 283rb that has the 4400lb axles and a gross weight of 9600lb and im having braking problems. Controller turned all the way up and the manual override maxed out the brakes hardly stop. Dealer says its normal, and Dexter would only say that i am near capacity so braking performance may suffer. Probably swapping to a pair of 6k axles in the spring to get the 12" drums.

We like the layout because it has a slide on the rear which has a bunk and a half bath, our bedroom is in the front on a full bath. The living area is a bit smaller but we are hardly in it other than to sleep. It is long too, the box is 31' from bumper to the front of the shell giving an over all length of close to 34' and its just about 38' open.

 

Seems that nobody advertises the axles or even publishes the specs. Easy to find the water tank capacity but aside from crawling under the trailers I don't know how to look up the axle and brake specifications even though that's pretty important.

 

I was not comfortable with the same setup and added 5 leaf springs when I went wet bolt and Dexter EZ-Flex kit on mine. Maxed out suspension is never good in my book.

Griz

 

springs look good under mine, zero sag, if anything they feel stiff. Might change out to a cushioned equalizer if i swap the axles to try and take some of the shock out.

My biggest issue with it are the brakes, they are terrible. Need to go through them soon and make sure everything is right, but i think they just don't have the power to slow that camper down adequality.

 

I had only originally planned on doing the Dexter Kit, but I got it from someone selling one never used and saved enough bread to help cover the spring purchase. It was on the list, but was not in a hurry.

I was replacing the D rated tires with E rated ones too, so it was an "all in" type of thing. Only took 3.5 hours swapping it all over as I had my wife run tires/wheels to the shop while I did each side of springs and equalizers.

6 ton jack stands, a 20 ton bottle jack and 2 ton jack stands to support the axles. I also used my 2 ton floor jack to re-position them as needed while hanging things.

I like turning wenches on my stuff, so this is therapy to me.

Griz

 

It's going to be about $700 to swap them. Cheaper than converting to disk(if could that is) and the 12" drums should give me quit a bit more stopping power. Currently the truck's brakes are taking a beating any time i have to pull it. Plus i can sell the dexter 4400's off on craigslist and get a few hundred bucks, or make another trailer lol

 

How many miles do you have on those brakes? If you can't damn near lock the brakes on the trailer with the manual control I would look at the magnets and the drum face they ride against for wear.

I notice once I get about 10,000 miles of city driving on a set of brakes they don't work as well as they did when new. After pulling the drums they are usually well ribbed rather than flat and the magnets are about shot, sometimes the windings are showing through the magnet face.

 

About 600 miles, I've been hard on them the last few trips trying to get them to wear in. They grab a bit more aggressively but will not come near lock up like they should maxed out.

 

Shoot 600 miles they are still new, there went that theory!