Looking at '89 F250 7.3 Diesel to Purchase - Have Questions
#1
10-11-2017, 12:03 AM
Looking at '89 F250 7.3 Diesel to Purchase - Have Questions
Hello Enthusiasts, I'm new to diesels and this forum, would like some opinions on an '89 F250 XLT 7.3 Diesel 4x4 I am considering purchasing (in the Northwest). 109k miles, original owner, used on farm and to/from Alaska, is asking $5k. I am not set on this truck in particular, it just happens to be convenient and close to what I am looking for in my next vehicle (currently have a '97 Tacoma with 350k + miles... it's time may be short). I'm thinking this may be a good "lead in" vehicle to the diesel world; if I like it, I'll keep it. I will not be towing with it, will be a daily driver. I've been reading a few forums and have a general idea of the truck but have some specific questions based on research so far:
Cavitation - One of the main issues I've found is that cavitation is common if SCA is not maintained. How do I tell if the engine has cavitation?
Glow plugs/starting - I've looked at the truck once so far and rode in it while owner drove. He sprayed starter fluid in intake to start (it was a cool evening, appx 50 F). I've read starter fluid is not good for glow plugs, and also that hard startup is a symptom of bad glow plugs. Can I assume by my observations that the glow plugs will likely need to be replaced? From quick internet research this work appears fairly easy and inexpensive, however some people seem to think it is a concern. Any issues on this I may not be aware of and should consider?
Speed - I've read the 7.3 IDI engine is VERY SLOW. Does slow mean slow acceleration, or slow top speed, or both? I don't mind slow acceleration, but I would like to be able to drive at freeway speed comfortably - i.e. between 65 and 80mph.
Air conditioning - I tried the AC during my ride-along and it did not blow cold air. Any tricky things with recharging AC in this truck?
Price - is $5k a reasonable price for this vehicle?
Any other things I should consider when purchasing? Any other things I should be considering with diesels in general?
Cavitation - One of the main issues I've found is that cavitation is common if SCA is not maintained. How do I tell if the engine has cavitation?
Glow plugs/starting - I've looked at the truck once so far and rode in it while owner drove. He sprayed starter fluid in intake to start (it was a cool evening, appx 50 F). I've read starter fluid is not good for glow plugs, and also that hard startup is a symptom of bad glow plugs. Can I assume by my observations that the glow plugs will likely need to be replaced? From quick internet research this work appears fairly easy and inexpensive, however some people seem to think it is a concern. Any issues on this I may not be aware of and should consider?
Speed - I've read the 7.3 IDI engine is VERY SLOW. Does slow mean slow acceleration, or slow top speed, or both? I don't mind slow acceleration, but I would like to be able to drive at freeway speed comfortably - i.e. between 65 and 80mph.
Air conditioning - I tried the AC during my ride-along and it did not blow cold air. Any tricky things with recharging AC in this truck?
Price - is $5k a reasonable price for this vehicle?
Any other things I should consider when purchasing? Any other things I should be considering with diesels in general?
#2
10-11-2017, 12:17 AM
Cargo Master
Hello Enthusiasts, I'm new to diesels and this forum,
Welcome.
would like some opinions on an '89 F250 XLT 7.3 Diesel 4x4 I am considering purchasing (in the Northwest). 109k miles, original owner, used on farm and to/from Alaska, is asking $5k. I am not set on this truck in particular, it just happens to be convenient and close to what I am looking for in my next vehicle (currently have a '97 Tacoma with 350k + miles... it's time may be short). I'm thinking this may be a good "lead in" vehicle to the diesel world; if I like it, I'll keep it. I will not be towing with it, will be a daily driver. I've been reading a few forums and have a general idea of the truck but have some specific questions based on research so far:
Cavitation - One of the main issues I've found is that cavitation is common if SCA is not maintained. How do I tell if the engine has cavitation?
Don't freak out about Cavitation. It is overhyped. As long as you flush the coolant after you buy it, and put in proper SCA coolant thereafter, you'll be fine.
Glow plugs/starting - I've looked at the truck once so far and rode in it while owner drove. He sprayed starter fluid in intake to start (it was a cool evening, appx 50 F). I've read starter fluid is not good for glow plugs, and also that hard startup is a symptom of bad glow plugs. Can I assume by my observations that the glow plugs will likely need to be replaced? From quick internet research this work appears fairly easy and inexpensive, however some people seem to think it is a concern. Any issues on this I may not be aware of and should consider?
Hard starting could be a lot of things. How old are current plugs? Make sure they are Motorcraft plugs. Autolites and other non-Motorcraft plugs can swell and become a nightmare to remove.
Also, I'm assuming you are a gasser guy and not much of a diesel guy. The first instinct of a gasser guy is to inspect the sparkplugs on their engines, but diesels are very different. Forget anything you know about gassers, cuz nothing really translates to the diesel repairs. Hard starting on a diesel is likely a variety of factors, from compression, to the glowplug relay, to the GP's, to the IP, and so on. If he's using ether (which you shouldn't use anymore whatsoever), he might have air intrusion in the fuel lines, or a clogged filter, or the fuel lines are not holding their prime, and so on.. But for sure, toss in some good quality motorcraft plugs since you are going to need a decent baseline once you get it anyway. New plugs can't hurt it.
Speed - I've read the 7.3 IDI engine is VERY SLOW. Does slow mean slow acceleration, or slow top speed, or both? I don't mind slow acceleration, but I would like to be able to drive at freeway speed comfortably - i.e. between 65 and 80mph.
A non-turbo IDI will have reduced power. Back in 1989, the non-turbo IDI rolling out of the factory had only 180 HP. That means you 100K IDI probably has 130 HP. That means it'll be slower than the other cars. You can fix that by adding a turbo (not too hard to find on ebay or CL), or just understanding you are getting a non-computerized and easy to work on engine which will afford you reliability. A common phrase in this FTE IDI forum is "It may not drive fast up the hill, but it will always get you to the top."
Air conditioning - I tried the AC during my ride-along and it did not blow cold air. Any tricky things with recharging AC in this truck?
AC can be fixed. Has it already been converted to R134a?
Price - is $5k a reasonable price for this vehicle?
$5K is for a rust free non-turbo that runs immaculately. You are getting a 4x4, so that means a little bit more expensive, but honestly, I'd say $3-4K for a low-rust 100K 4x4 IDI pickup with new tires. If there is decent rust, then $2.5K. If there is lotsa rust, then $1.5K.
Any other things I should consider when purchasing? Any other things I should be considering with diesels in general?
Welcome.
would like some opinions on an '89 F250 XLT 7.3 Diesel 4x4 I am considering purchasing (in the Northwest). 109k miles, original owner, used on farm and to/from Alaska, is asking $5k. I am not set on this truck in particular, it just happens to be convenient and close to what I am looking for in my next vehicle (currently have a '97 Tacoma with 350k + miles... it's time may be short). I'm thinking this may be a good "lead in" vehicle to the diesel world; if I like it, I'll keep it. I will not be towing with it, will be a daily driver. I've been reading a few forums and have a general idea of the truck but have some specific questions based on research so far:
Cavitation - One of the main issues I've found is that cavitation is common if SCA is not maintained. How do I tell if the engine has cavitation?
Don't freak out about Cavitation. It is overhyped. As long as you flush the coolant after you buy it, and put in proper SCA coolant thereafter, you'll be fine.
Glow plugs/starting - I've looked at the truck once so far and rode in it while owner drove. He sprayed starter fluid in intake to start (it was a cool evening, appx 50 F). I've read starter fluid is not good for glow plugs, and also that hard startup is a symptom of bad glow plugs. Can I assume by my observations that the glow plugs will likely need to be replaced? From quick internet research this work appears fairly easy and inexpensive, however some people seem to think it is a concern. Any issues on this I may not be aware of and should consider?
Hard starting could be a lot of things. How old are current plugs? Make sure they are Motorcraft plugs. Autolites and other non-Motorcraft plugs can swell and become a nightmare to remove.
Also, I'm assuming you are a gasser guy and not much of a diesel guy. The first instinct of a gasser guy is to inspect the sparkplugs on their engines, but diesels are very different. Forget anything you know about gassers, cuz nothing really translates to the diesel repairs. Hard starting on a diesel is likely a variety of factors, from compression, to the glowplug relay, to the GP's, to the IP, and so on. If he's using ether (which you shouldn't use anymore whatsoever), he might have air intrusion in the fuel lines, or a clogged filter, or the fuel lines are not holding their prime, and so on.. But for sure, toss in some good quality motorcraft plugs since you are going to need a decent baseline once you get it anyway. New plugs can't hurt it.
Speed - I've read the 7.3 IDI engine is VERY SLOW. Does slow mean slow acceleration, or slow top speed, or both? I don't mind slow acceleration, but I would like to be able to drive at freeway speed comfortably - i.e. between 65 and 80mph.
A non-turbo IDI will have reduced power. Back in 1989, the non-turbo IDI rolling out of the factory had only 180 HP. That means you 100K IDI probably has 130 HP. That means it'll be slower than the other cars. You can fix that by adding a turbo (not too hard to find on ebay or CL), or just understanding you are getting a non-computerized and easy to work on engine which will afford you reliability. A common phrase in this FTE IDI forum is "It may not drive fast up the hill, but it will always get you to the top."
Air conditioning - I tried the AC during my ride-along and it did not blow cold air. Any tricky things with recharging AC in this truck?
AC can be fixed. Has it already been converted to R134a?
Price - is $5k a reasonable price for this vehicle?
$5K is for a rust free non-turbo that runs immaculately. You are getting a 4x4, so that means a little bit more expensive, but honestly, I'd say $3-4K for a low-rust 100K 4x4 IDI pickup with new tires. If there is decent rust, then $2.5K. If there is lotsa rust, then $1.5K.
Any other things I should consider when purchasing? Any other things I should be considering with diesels in general?
If it is truly a 100K truck, with the right maintenance, you could potentially have a solid diesel pickup for years and 100's of thousands more miles. They last forever, and they are a dream to work on.
#4
10-14-2017, 12:41 AM
Unloaded, NA is fine; 0-50 feels snappy, and 50-75-ish is decent. I haven't actually tried to go over that with a NA IDI; all my current rigs are turboed.
It's once you have a nice load on(like a 5-6K truck or a Bobcat on a car hauler) that it really starts to show the lack of power - On flat ground, you might do 60, but no more, and drop speed quite a bit going up a hill.
If you aren't towing with it, you probably won't notice the lower power unless you put a large wind-resistance load in the bed(like a fridge or two upright) and try to go 70.
When going slower, like in-town? IDIs handle great, even with a big load. Quite snappy off idle, etc.
It's once you have a nice load on(like a 5-6K truck or a Bobcat on a car hauler) that it really starts to show the lack of power - On flat ground, you might do 60, but no more, and drop speed quite a bit going up a hill.
If you aren't towing with it, you probably won't notice the lower power unless you put a large wind-resistance load in the bed(like a fridge or two upright) and try to go 70.
When going slower, like in-town? IDIs handle great, even with a big load. Quite snappy off idle, etc.
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