I sold a 13 EB for a 18 5.0. I bought the 13 figuring it had been out 2 yrs and most things fixed. I would not get an EB that didn't have the 2sets of fuel injectors. If planning on towing and liking an EB a 3.5 only with a minimum of 3.55 gears and preferring 3.73's which my 13 had with max tow. My trailer was 8500# loaded and the 3.5 worked but did it fine. Newer vehicles of any kind run hotter than the past and you need to know that when towing especially in the hills. Good luck.

 

Just FYI, I looked for a truck for 6 months, drove 250 miles for a pretty good deal in Georgia and couldn't be happier. You need to test drive trucks and check features to see what you like, need, want. I test drove one to make sure it would fit in my garage. Do not get pressured into buying now.
Are you sure you are set on a F150?
What cab style?
Does color matter?
What trim?
4WD or 2WD?

You need to make a list of what you must have, what you absolutely don't want and start looking at trucks online.

 

^^^^THIS^^^^ You really should go online and look at all the options. Even do a 'build it yourself' to see just what you want, need or don't want. I, for example, would like a Lariat just for the optional upgraded stereo system. But I don't need leather, keyless ignition, etc. I would be perfectly happy in a loaded XLT. Which btw is what I pretty much have now. Plus the lower trim level trucks typically have a better payload rating.

 

I opted for the 2017 when I bought last week. They had $14,500 in rebates / incentives off of a $50K sticker and gave me full retail for my trade in 2005 GMC Duramax. I ended up paying about the same price for a new 2017 as I would have for a use 2015 or 2016 with low miles that were sitting on the lot.

 

I purchased an 18 Platinum last week. Sticker was 66500 and the dealer offered 61,700. I thought it was fair as there are not many 18's on the lots and still plenty of 17's.

Good luck with your search.

 

Same 10% I got when I bought my 2018...

 

Also, rebates on Lariat, King Ranch, Platinum and Limited trucks are less than those on XL and XLTs.

 

Around November is the time to buy a 2017. The MSRP price is usually around 20% above invoice, not always. Ford will have many incentives and the dealer also gets money (holdbacks). A dealership can sell a vehicle below the invoice price and still make money from the holdback (bonus the manufacturer pays to the dealership for each new vehicle sold) and bonuses they get for selling a set amount of vehicles. The absolute best time to buy is toward the end of December, but of course the inventory of 17s will be lower and there may not be much to choose from. The end of November is a good time as well. I would never buy the first of the month, most dealerships have a quota of vehicles that they need to sell each month. The last day, if they haven't met their objective, they will make deals that they may not otherwise. The 20% number is a good amount to focus on, that includes the rebates and incentives. I purchased mine October 2016, sticker was $42K, they gave me $5250.00 for my old truck. I paid $25K when it was said and done, I still have equity in my truck also, so it can be done. Timing is everything..they can sell a truck below invoice at a loss, even $2000 below invoice and if that truck gives them their bonus (helps them meet their quota), they still make money.

 

Great info. Thanks.

 

Invoice on F150s is more like the 10-12% range. If you try to demand holdback in the deal, they probably wont talk to you anymore. The dealer has to make something in order to keep their doors open.

 

The dealers make plenty of money. If you want to be "fair" with them, then you are falling for their rhetoric. Why be fair? Be the buyer who drives a hard deal. Don't be afraid to walk out. Unfortunately, the more specific your needs (10K towing) the less your chances of getting a "great" deal. I bought a 2016 on December 31. With all discounts and rebates it was 32% off of an XL 150. it took me 2-3 months of hunting to narrow my search to 3 dealers who had the model I wanted. Although, mine can only tow 7K lbs. have you checked on an F250? Happy hunting, Jag

 

I agree.

Remember something OP.........the dealer always need you more than you need them and you must be willing to walk away when you know you`re getting ripped off or you know that you can get a better deal from another dealer.

One of the worst things one can do when purchasing a new vehicle is to be committed to one dealer.

I drove from Atlanta GA to Mobile AL to get a great deal on my 2016 a year ago.

 

Incorrect..as stated, if the dealer gives you 20% off of the MSRP, they will still make money in the many ways I listed in my original response. Also, if you have a trade in, they will try to make it up there, you have to be very careful. My truck was traded in for $5250.00 and after they put new tires on it, they sold it for $9000.00. My price on my new truck was over 30% off of the sticker price in the end. As I said the first time, they will lose money on your deal if the timing is right, so they can get their bonus money. It may be a good idea to walk and go to another dealer that needs the sale for their quota.

 

If you're planing on towing, the 2018 max tow pkg. will include the larger fuel tank, 3.55 axle ratio, brake controller and all the other heavy-duty components which gives you more bang for your buck. With the 2017s, the larger fuel tank was in addition to the cost of the max tow pkg.

 

I wanted a daily driver upgrade from a 16 year old Jeep. I was also wanting a super cab truck. I found exactly what I wanted in a 2017 XLT with NAV, 3.55, electric lock rear, 3.5 EB, 10 speed with tow mod, FX4 and equipment group 302A etc etc. Drove it away for 24% off sticker price which was 48,395.00.


When I want to pull the boat while carrying the Lance slide in I will pull out the F350 DRW diesel for those trips.