Ok so my 2004 5.4 just developed a exhaust tick on the drivers side again for the second time! I thought when I put Gibson stainless headers on the truck at 26k miles I wouldn't have the issues but here we go again. So when I did it originally I reused the stock studs but used copper antiseize, jump forward to I forget but about eight years ago the passenger side starting to tick. Gibson sent me a new header and then emailed me that the ball flange for the ypipe was leaking and not the mounting flange at the head.... so I'm going to call them tomorrow and see what they will do with the lifetime warranty again BUT I have a stainless stud kit from eBay seller https://m.ebay.com/itm/Ford-4-6-5-4-...257Ciid%253A16

but after doing more research I'm worried about stainless on stainless studs and then stainless headers that are getting rusty... I'm going to use a high temp exhaust antiseize on the studs into the head BUT I found M8 flange brass nuts I was going to buy? For 35ftlbs they will hold that and not strip out but if I ever habe an issues again or need to do motor work the brass nuts will come right off plus they will never rust apart.
Next I have the original manifolds with 26k on them in my garage that are PERFECT should I out them back on to get better low end torque or wait for Gibson to warranty the one header AGAIN for the second time?

 

It would be really dependent on your patience and how long it will take Gibson to do a turn around and get the product to you and then whatever time you have to do the reinstall.

I know when I did cam phasers on my 06 5.4 I said to myself there was no way in hell I was going in there twice so I replaced both phasers, both guides both tensioner, timing chain and sprocket, oil pump and vct solenoids along with water pump oring , front cover gaskets, oil pan gasket, valave cover gasket. I had doing stuff twice and no way was I planning on having to go in down the road anytime soon.

So really it is a matter of time and your patience, do you want to wait? Do you have confidence in the Gibson product to put it back on and ride with it again, or do you go back to the old OEM ones and different studs. That's never an easy call especially since this is going to be the second time you are doing a change because you have to.

Which ever way it goes your going back in again like it or not and that truly sucks man, I fell for ya, no one likes doing things a second time never mind a third

 

Worst part is the OEM studs and nuts are still there, little rusty but I can clearly see the hex on the nuts and none are missing. I camera scoped both sides and I can't see ANY smoke leaks on the aluminum head to indicate the leak....i used leak sector from work on the ball flange from the ypipe and when I started the truck and had my son rev it up NOT ONE BUBBLE FORMED but as soon as it's in gear and going down the road there is is that typical ford exhaust ticking! It's only been less than two weeks but I hear it echo off cars and buildings when I'm driving and I know people look up and are like WTF LOLOL I just want to fix it and be done! Which is why I asked about going back to the factory manifolds and using the new stainless studs with adding brass nuts I found at fastenal

 

Last time Gibson asked me to email the original receipt, then they sent me a new header so I could do the swap it out and I had to send the old one into them. A week or so later I received an email stating during their test the ball flange kept leaking so my warranty was covered in full. So either the new header has the same ball flange leaking or I just have a bad gasket even though all the studs are there and tight. Onky thing that has me worries is it's been another eight or so years since I had the originals out and with a total of 161k now on them I'm terrified they will snap this time around

 

I see your point about worrying about them snapping on you, that would lead to some headaches. You could take a crack at getting the old one out, but that's no picnic in itself and may cause the swear jar to fill at a rapid pace. this is going to be one of those catch 22 damned if you do damned if you dont scenarios

 

I'm coping with the same nonsense on my 5.4. The thing I don't like about this whole design is that the header/manifold ball flanges have to be PERFECTLY aligned with the Y pipe cups or it won't seal. Worse, forcing the seal by clamping down on the flange studs creates stress on the studs in the head, pulling on them and changing the torque preload in the bolts. I'm going to take the truck to a shop and maybe they can heat bend the Y pipe into alignment, but if they can't, I might add a flex pipe on the straight spot in the driver side down pipe. That should make it flexible enough to seal up right

 

Well i ordered the brass nuts so as soon as they get here im gonna dive into it. My buddy is the parts manager at the local ford dealer and he told me if i needed the aligment tool for drilling and tapping the gead studs he would bring it home for me