new doors and door ajar light
#1
new doors and door ajar light
So, I've searched through many spray and go away posts on the issue.
I'd rather not spray each door and open/close 20 times.
Is there a way to determine the offending sensor?
Background: I just replaced all four doors (and bed) with southern rust free parts. I now get the door ajar light on constant. Previously, no issues.
The right rear door was from an 08 (mine is an 01) and I had to clip one plug to fit the newer style.
Couldn't one just either unplug or jumper the plugs to avoid this issue?
I'd rather not spray each door and open/close 20 times.
Is there a way to determine the offending sensor?
Background: I just replaced all four doors (and bed) with southern rust free parts. I now get the door ajar light on constant. Previously, no issues.
The right rear door was from an 08 (mine is an 01) and I had to clip one plug to fit the newer style.
Couldn't one just either unplug or jumper the plugs to avoid this issue?
#4
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Blairsville, Pennsylvania
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I don't remember what multiple doors do, if they are added together or what.
I don't think you can select the different door numbers on AE (then 0/1 for closed/open).
Sorry for the lack of details, it's been a while
FYI, Excursion hatches have TWO sensors on the side of the top rear hatch. From your sig, you have F250, but just in case someone else finds this post in a future search
Good luck, let us know how you make out
#5
So, AE does allow for each door to be read. From the GEM option when connecting the truck. Live data meter will show each individually.
So, the WD-40 trick didn't work for me. Any other suggestions?
Also, I have one door from an 08. The plug on the harness is different than the door. Since the 08+ have a disconnect between door and jam, I had the right plug. I just cut wires and spliced it in. That door does not read at all. Doesn't show as ajar, doesn't make interior lights come on when I open the door. I don't mind. But if there's a cheap fix, I'd do it.
BTW, I no longer have the old doors. Gave them away.
So, the WD-40 trick didn't work for me. Any other suggestions?
Also, I have one door from an 08. The plug on the harness is different than the door. Since the 08+ have a disconnect between door and jam, I had the right plug. I just cut wires and spliced it in. That door does not read at all. Doesn't show as ajar, doesn't make interior lights come on when I open the door. I don't mind. But if there's a cheap fix, I'd do it.
BTW, I no longer have the old doors. Gave them away.
#6
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Blairsville, Pennsylvania
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My Excursion doesn't have a GEM, rather the hybrid electronics gauge.
Which door is giving you trouble?
I'm not sure about the connectors being different, but if you have them working on a different door, can you swap those parts into the trouble door? You could have a wiring issue to that one door.
I don't know if you rewired to a plug or spliced directly to wires? Maybe a few pics could help?
Which door is giving you trouble?
I'm not sure about the connectors being different, but if you have them working on a different door, can you swap those parts into the trouble door? You could have a wiring issue to that one door.
I don't know if you rewired to a plug or spliced directly to wires? Maybe a few pics could help?
#7
My trouble is with the drivers side rear door.
I purchased a new door switch from Ford because I could not get the old switch to read anything. I tried ohms, continuity and voltage (while plugged in). The new switch did clearly show an ohm change. I don't recall if I did continuity.
Still no luck.
I didn't have a wiring issue prior to swapping doors. But, I guess I do now...
This is not the door that I changed the plug. That door (passenger rear) is working well.
I'll start at the plug and work my way back.
I purchased a new door switch from Ford because I could not get the old switch to read anything. I tried ohms, continuity and voltage (while plugged in). The new switch did clearly show an ohm change. I don't recall if I did continuity.
Still no luck.
I didn't have a wiring issue prior to swapping doors. But, I guess I do now...
This is not the door that I changed the plug. That door (passenger rear) is working well.
I'll start at the plug and work my way back.
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#8
Hey, me again. I've just been ignoring the light for a while. Today I opened the door back up because it really bugs me.
WD40 didn't work.
I've used AE to determine the drivers side rear is the issue.
I replaced the switch.
I cut the switch plug off and tested the connection. BTW, old switch is still good...
I sliced back the casing on the wires as they go into the jamb and have continuity through both wires from the switch plug to the jamb.
Help! what the hell can I do next?
WD40 didn't work.
I've used AE to determine the drivers side rear is the issue.
I replaced the switch.
I cut the switch plug off and tested the connection. BTW, old switch is still good...
I sliced back the casing on the wires as they go into the jamb and have continuity through both wires from the switch plug to the jamb.
Help! what the hell can I do next?
#10
Thanks. I appreciate any help.
When I swapped the doors, I gutted the wiring. Pulling the 2008 harness out and guiding the original 2001 wiring back in. The original wiring was never detached from the truck.
The 2008 door is not the one with the issue.
Although, the 2008 door still has the original sensor in it. I cut the plug from the 2008 harness and swapped it onto the original wiring because the door switch was slightly different plug.
The 2008 and 2001 sensors have different part numbers if I recall.
When I swapped the doors, I gutted the wiring. Pulling the 2008 harness out and guiding the original 2001 wiring back in. The original wiring was never detached from the truck.
The 2008 door is not the one with the issue.
Although, the 2008 door still has the original sensor in it. I cut the plug from the 2008 harness and swapped it onto the original wiring because the door switch was slightly different plug.
The 2008 and 2001 sensors have different part numbers if I recall.
#11
#12
Did you happen to find a solution? I've still just been living with it. I rarely drive after dark so it's not a big issue. I just hate seeing that door ajar light on.
#13
#14
No have not figured it out. Really have not worked on it a lot though. Trucks about done and ready to go on road so it'll have to be figured out soon. Original latches are gone for us, it was a stolen recovery and they stole the doors off it. May try to get a set from salvage yard though and see if that cures it.
#15
Got mine fixed. Finally found a crew cab parts truck near me and got all 4 latches. Door ajar light does not come on now. What a pain in the *** that was.
AE was showing only the rear driver side as not responding. But, if the rear passenger door was also opened, the dome lights would go out. Huh.
So, I first replaced the rear latches. Then the door ajar light would only go out if back doors were closed AND both front doors were open. AE confirmed door open/closed status now.
I then replaced the front latches and all is good. So, 4 latches from a 2000 put into my 2001.
Keeping in mind that I had no issues prior to getting rust free doors. I was in no hurry so I shopped for matching color. This had me sourcing doors from three unknown year trucks.
AE was showing only the rear driver side as not responding. But, if the rear passenger door was also opened, the dome lights would go out. Huh.
So, I first replaced the rear latches. Then the door ajar light would only go out if back doors were closed AND both front doors were open. AE confirmed door open/closed status now.
I then replaced the front latches and all is good. So, 4 latches from a 2000 put into my 2001.
Keeping in mind that I had no issues prior to getting rust free doors. I was in no hurry so I shopped for matching color. This had me sourcing doors from three unknown year trucks.
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