1965 N600 gets a new life
#1
10-01-2017, 07:18 AM
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1965 N600 gets a new life
Hello to the forum. Introducing myself with my new truck! More pics follow.
As she's currently indisposed (and who wants to be photographed in the hospital?) pics are limited to the basics:
The Vin is wrong as this is a V-8, not a six.
The fuel tank has been changed to one of Chinese manufacture. (Just to get her to the shop)
and I need a favor: I need info on replacement options for the U-joint in the steering column if anyone has any ideas, or one laying about.
I wonder if the basket around the joint was there to prevent debris from wrapping around the shaft;
Or if its true purpose was to hold the shaft in place in the event of the joint breaking, which is what it has done. There is an ear or piece thereof allowing some control, but the shaft can move in the socket like a spoon in a mixing bowl.
Looking to get the girl back to work ASAP. Help wanted please!
As she's currently indisposed (and who wants to be photographed in the hospital?) pics are limited to the basics:
The Vin is wrong as this is a V-8, not a six.
The fuel tank has been changed to one of Chinese manufacture. (Just to get her to the shop)
and I need a favor: I need info on replacement options for the U-joint in the steering column if anyone has any ideas, or one laying about.
I wonder if the basket around the joint was there to prevent debris from wrapping around the shaft;
Or if its true purpose was to hold the shaft in place in the event of the joint breaking, which is what it has done. There is an ear or piece thereof allowing some control, but the shaft can move in the socket like a spoon in a mixing bowl.
Looking to get the girl back to work ASAP. Help wanted please!
#2
10-06-2017, 08:41 AM
1965 N600
The VIN (N60AU664386) is correct, but you are wrong, because you are unaware that Ford used different VIN engine codes in 1964/65 than they did 1966 and later.
1964/65: A = 330 2V Medium Duty FT engine // 1966/74: A = 240 1V I-6 // 1966/78: C = 330 2V Medium Duty FT engine.
1965 F100/350: D = 352 2V // 1966/67 F100/350: Y = 352 2V
1964/65: M = 330 2V Heavy Duty FT engine // 1966/78: D = 330 2V Heavy Duty FT engine.
N60AU664386: N = N600 (gas); A = 330 2V Medium Duty FT engine; U = Louisville KY Assembly Plant; 664386 = 1965.
1964/65: A = 330 2V Medium Duty FT engine // 1966/74: A = 240 1V I-6 // 1966/78: C = 330 2V Medium Duty FT engine.
1965 F100/350: D = 352 2V // 1966/67 F100/350: Y = 352 2V
1964/65: M = 330 2V Heavy Duty FT engine // 1966/78: D = 330 2V Heavy Duty FT engine.
N60AU664386: N = N600 (gas); A = 330 2V Medium Duty FT engine; U = Louisville KY Assembly Plant; 664386 = 1965.
#4
10-13-2017, 05:44 PM
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Steering intermediate shaft normal?
Well, I found a replacement shaft on Fleebay and I was wondering if the shaft is supposed to slide on the pin.
We pulled out the original (the one that stained my shorts) and found it slid back and forth between the ears. Of course it also rotated a few degrees on the pin because of excessive wear. And as a bonus the ears were loose on the pin and everything was maintaining proximity out of habit but not integrity.
Observing the double camber on the ears in both directions makes me think that the pin is intended to be stationary and the ears slide in the cup grooves as the angle changes. If that's not the case I be needing to pull it back out. I wonder because it exhibited a "pop" when I first turned her.
I would post a pic but I lost brakes 500 yards from the garage and had to leave her in a public parking lot as the shop had closed for the weekend.
Nothing spells fun like a downhill run to a blind T-stop in the middle of town. So glad I checked the driveshaft brake!
Frustrating Old Restoration Details
Keeping the faith, and imagining her working.
We pulled out the original (the one that stained my shorts) and found it slid back and forth between the ears. Of course it also rotated a few degrees on the pin because of excessive wear. And as a bonus the ears were loose on the pin and everything was maintaining proximity out of habit but not integrity.
Observing the double camber on the ears in both directions makes me think that the pin is intended to be stationary and the ears slide in the cup grooves as the angle changes. If that's not the case I be needing to pull it back out. I wonder because it exhibited a "pop" when I first turned her.
I would post a pic but I lost brakes 500 yards from the garage and had to leave her in a public parking lot as the shop had closed for the weekend.
Nothing spells fun like a downhill run to a blind T-stop in the middle of town. So glad I checked the driveshaft brake!
Frustrating Old Restoration Details
Keeping the faith, and imagining her working.
#6
10-16-2017, 06:48 PM
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Thanks for digging up the parts list friend.
The slip joint I was having problems with is the 3B676 assembly. It has a pin through the bottom of the shaft that mounts two blocks that mate into the socket. I was wondering if the pin was a press fit or a sliding fit.
The original is so worn in every direction that I have no forensic.
Steel brake line blew and its back in the replacement shop.
The original is so worn in every direction that I have no forensic.
Steel brake line blew and its back in the replacement shop.
#7
01-17-2018, 01:51 PM
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#9
02-20-2018, 05:44 PM
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Still alive and....well?
Hey unilover6163! And thanks for the shout. It came at just the right time. Been down with all the setbacks and she's still not on the road.
Looking for a carb. Rebuilt and gone over and we think there is air leaking in @ the butterfly shaft that keeps her from idling. Pull out the choke and she runs fine. Haven't found anything on Fleebay under 2Franks that looks trustworthy. Hate to spring for a new Holley. Here's some pics. She is still alive, out of intensive care, but not the shop!
Looking for a carb. Rebuilt and gone over and we think there is air leaking in @ the butterfly shaft that keeps her from idling. Pull out the choke and she runs fine. Haven't found anything on Fleebay under 2Franks that looks trustworthy. Hate to spring for a new Holley. Here's some pics. She is still alive, out of intensive care, but not the shop!
#11
02-27-2018, 03:00 PM
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I look forward to the time when I am able to share your enthusiasm with regards to this truck.
It has been a long road untravelled getting her running dependably.
Waiting to see if the Chinese carb will perform. Fingers crossed.
I am not certain if my fans will cool it sufficiently. The supposedly 90 watt fans blew a 10 amp (each) fuse. So much for my math skills....or theirs.
So far:
New radiator @ $260 from fleebay
New brake booster ~$150 from NAPA
New water pump ~ $150 from NAPA
New Old Stock regulator Motorcraft (sitting on the shop shelf for who knows how long)
New plugs
New distributor HEI (I hate to disclose the price, when my mechanic buddy just bought one for $50 with wires!
New wires. TWO sets! The first from Jegs would not fit either end: I had to trim the distributor ends because it was pushing back too much and would disconnect with any slight vibration. The plug boots pushed the connectors back into the boot ends, which I thought was fused together.
AND they were bloody hell to get in in the first place.
New battery tray.
New battery cables and starter ground strap. I made these from #4 welding cable.
Nearly new 22.5 michelins (from a motorhome)
Reclaimed wheels ($200), cleaned, powdercoated, valved and mounted ($325)
New led tail lights, as yet unwired
New grease, oil and fluids
New shifter boot
New shifter boot housing (I made this as new rubber this long is unfindable
Hoist works, but leakes like a sieve @ pump shaft and hose
But not as enthusiastically as the transmission, at several possible places
I am anxiously anticipating my mpg with baited breath
It has been a long road untravelled getting her running dependably.
Waiting to see if the Chinese carb will perform. Fingers crossed.
I am not certain if my fans will cool it sufficiently. The supposedly 90 watt fans blew a 10 amp (each) fuse. So much for my math skills....or theirs.
So far:
New radiator @ $260 from fleebay
New brake booster ~$150 from NAPA
New water pump ~ $150 from NAPA
New Old Stock regulator Motorcraft (sitting on the shop shelf for who knows how long)
New plugs
New distributor HEI (I hate to disclose the price, when my mechanic buddy just bought one for $50 with wires!
New wires. TWO sets! The first from Jegs would not fit either end: I had to trim the distributor ends because it was pushing back too much and would disconnect with any slight vibration. The plug boots pushed the connectors back into the boot ends, which I thought was fused together.
AND they were bloody hell to get in in the first place.
New battery tray.
New battery cables and starter ground strap. I made these from #4 welding cable.
Nearly new 22.5 michelins (from a motorhome)
Reclaimed wheels ($200), cleaned, powdercoated, valved and mounted ($325)
New led tail lights, as yet unwired
New grease, oil and fluids
New shifter boot
New shifter boot housing (I made this as new rubber this long is unfindable
Hoist works, but leakes like a sieve @ pump shaft and hose
But not as enthusiastically as the transmission, at several possible places
I am anxiously anticipating my mpg with baited breath
#12
06-28-2018, 06:50 PM
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Congrats on your progress.
It is truly a process to diagnose and fix all the stubborn little issues as they present themselves.
Keeping that piece of motoring history alive will be rewarding once you get past the nuances that are bleeding your brain and pocketbook down somewhat.
Once she is healthy enough to be road worthy, you will see the fruits of your labour.
Best of luck with your project and don't give up on her.
It is truly a process to diagnose and fix all the stubborn little issues as they present themselves.
Keeping that piece of motoring history alive will be rewarding once you get past the nuances that are bleeding your brain and pocketbook down somewhat.
Once she is healthy enough to be road worthy, you will see the fruits of your labour.
Best of luck with your project and don't give up on her.
#13
06-30-2018, 08:37 PM
Hi ya, Joe! I just wanted to add a couple of words of encouragement to unilovers post. I have been going through a lot of similar issues bringing a long-neglected 1957 F600 back to life and I have had questions about whether I was doing the right thing both within my own mind and from friends. Well, just the other day I helped a buddy pick up a bunch of bales of hay to feed his horses using my truck and saving him an expensive delivery fee. I am a really lucky man and I get to do a lot of fun things in my life but I cannot recall ANYTHING that gave me more joy than knowing that my efforts have saved a truck that was sure to be scrapped and to see it actually do work that it was designed to do! Keep the faith, brother and don't give up because I PROMISE you, that first day back on the road and that first time you put that incredible machine back to work doing something productive are going to make it ALL worthwhile!
Most sincerely,
Dave
Most sincerely,
Dave
#14
07-22-2019, 10:19 PM
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#15
07-25-2019, 10:12 AM
Keep up the info joenative! I have a N600 that is red like yours. I too have carb problems, accelerator pump spits out the fuel rather than getting it to the throat of the carb. If you remember, can you let me know what kind of motor home it was where you got the 222.5's I have military 2.5 ton wheels now but would like to switch to tubeless radial tires. I just picked up a great looking fuel tank for my Lucy (AKA lucifer, by my wife). I also picked up a Ross, power steering gear box, that I hope to put on. Keep up the good work, the N-series guys are watching. If you have a number for that dizzy, please share it, I would like to swap to an electronic ignition myself.