1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

Hard choice...Lowering front suspension.

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Old 09-26-2017, 11:57 AM
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Hard choice...Lowering front suspension.

On my 67 I'm lowering it all around. I'm doing an axle flip out back and I have a set of dream beams for the front. I have been giving serious thought to relocating the I-beam pivot point location up two inches on each side and running 2" drop springs for a total of 5" drop up front. I know I would also have to modify the front crossmember to clear the beams.

Currently I have the whole front clip off the truck and the engine out. So if I'm going to do this modification now is the time to do it.

I would like to hear you guys opinion on the matter. Pros and cons.
 
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Old 09-26-2017, 12:05 PM
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Any time you use springs to lower something you lose suspension travel.
Now in your case maybe not if bump stops are moved higher also.
Also shorter spring are stiffer so you get a ruffer ride.

Now doing all this work and it will still handle & ride (ruffer) like the truck but lower.
Why not do a crown vic swap?
you get it lower, better handling and rides better.
Dave - - - -
 
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Old 09-26-2017, 12:21 PM
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If your going that low Seriously consider the Crown vic swamp and air bags .
remember the I beams have no adjust for camber . when CV does
 
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Old 09-26-2017, 05:44 PM
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Yeah, trying to go that low on beams is more work than it's worth. The CV swap isn't much more work than your already talking about, and the results are WAY better.
 
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Old 09-28-2017, 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by FuzzFace2
Any time you use springs to lower something you lose suspension travel.
Now in your case maybe not if bump stops are moved higher also.
Also shorter spring are stiffer so you get a ruffer ride.

Now doing all this work and it will still handle & ride (ruffer) like the truck but lower.
Why not do a crown vic swap?
you get it lower, better handling and rides better.
Dave - - - -

OP, to get away from the results Dave explained here you should use Explorer (the SUV) springs. There was a thread on here a while back where some gentleman did this and got a 2" drop. He used TRW part number CC870. He liked the ride they gave him.
GO HERE..... 2+" drop using explorer springs ( 1 2)
CraigerF100
 
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Old 09-28-2017, 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by JEFFFAFA
OP, to get away from the results Dave explained here you should use Explorer (the SUV) springs. There was a thread on here a while back where some gentleman did this and got a 2" drop. He used TRW part number CC870. He liked the ride they gave him.
GO HERE..... 2+" drop using explorer springs ( 1 2)
CraigerF100
I seen this thread. Was already considering running these springs.
 
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Old 10-13-2017, 10:18 AM
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Here's a pic of what you bare wanting to do. I personally can't complain bout ride quality it's a little stiffer bUT did just get her up to 85mph the other day and she felt great. Also if you move pivot points expect to get new shocks early 90s e150 shocks bolt in and are shorter and seem to fit right when extended and compressed.
Axle flip 3in drop beams pivot points moved up.
 
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Old 10-14-2017, 08:53 PM
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Here's what mine looks like after a 4" drop with DJM Lowering Kit. Handles like a dream now too. I have a slight camber issue (pulls to right) but it doesn't take away from the drive.
 
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Old 11-23-2018, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Oldcrowbarber
On my 67 I'm lowering it all around. I'm doing an axle flip out back and I have a set of dream beams for the front. I have been giving serious thought to relocating the I-beam pivot point location up two inches on each side and running 2" drop springs for a total of 5" drop up front. I know I would also have to modify the front crossmember to clear the beams.

Currently I have the whole front clip off the truck and the engine out. So if I'm going to do this modification now is the time to do it.

I would like to hear you guys opinion on the matter. Pros and cons.
OldCrowBar. Did you actually attempt to do this for a 5 inch drop? I'm putting all Jaguar independent suspension under my ford F100. I'd sure like to see some pictures of your truck if you did do this 5 inch drop up front.
 
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Old 11-23-2018, 09:55 AM
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The thing I see wrong with moving the pivot points up and using lowering springs is wheel travel or more the lack there of.
With the springs you are putting the beams closer to the bump stops maybe 2"? Now you move the pivots up 2" to get the front camber right but you still have less travel.
How do you think this will ride when you hit bumps or you not going to drive this truck?

Check to see how much space is between the beam & bump stop stock. Then see if it has hit the bump stop, my bet it has.
Now remove 2" from that space and guess what will happen to that beam & bump stop?

Now if you are do a Jag suspension front & rear why do you ask on the pivots?
You just have to make sure the suspension has enough travel and the camber / caster can be dialed in, toe is easy most of the time.
Dave ----
 
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Old 11-23-2018, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by FuzzFace2
The thing I see wrong with moving the pivot points up and using lowering springs is wheel travel or more the lack there of.
With the springs you are putting the beams closer to the bump stops maybe 2"? Now you move the pivots up 2" to get the front camber right but you still have less travel.
How do you think this will ride when you hit bumps or you not going to drive this truck?

Check to see how much space is between the beam & bump stop stock. Then see if it has hit the bump stop, my bet it has.
Now remove 2" from that space and guess what will happen to that beam & bump stop?

Now if you are do a Jag suspension front & rear why do you ask on the pivots?
You just have to make sure the suspension has enough travel and the camber / caster can be dialed in, toe is easy most of the time.
Dave ----
. FuzzFace2. I agree. I would never attempt a swap or job like this. My Jaguar set up is going really easy. I knotced my frame up about an inch & quarter. Then made a bracket on the K-member. I was going to make it a bolt in. Then when I went to set it up. It just became so much easier to weld it in.
I have the K-member all tacked in now. I need to finish boxing in the frame & welding everything together. Right now I'm grinding all the wish bones & a-frame casting Mark's off. Then when I get everything smooth I'll paint it all. I've already purchased all the rebuild parts. I'm also putting in all shiny Stainless Steel bolts and nilock nuts. It's starting to take shape.
 
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Old 11-23-2018, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by FuzzFace2
The thing I see wrong with moving the pivot points up and using lowering springs is wheel travel or more the lack there of.
With the springs you are putting the beams closer to the bump stops maybe 2"? Now you move the pivots up 2" to get the front camber right but you still have less travel.
How do you think this will ride when you hit bumps or you not going to drive this truck?

Check to see how much space is between the beam & bump stop stock. Then see if it has hit the bump stop, my bet it has.
Now remove 2" from that space and guess what will happen to that beam & bump stop?

Now if you are do a Jag suspension front & rear why do you ask on the pivots?
You just have to make sure the suspension has enough travel and the camber / caster can be dialed in, toe is easy most of the time.
Dave ----
Dave. Where are you from?
 
  #13  
Old 11-23-2018, 01:12 PM
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Eaton screwed up my order and I had to pay for return shipping, they were completely indifferent over their blatant mishandling.

I purchased a set from coilsprings.com and they are perfect, and a delight to deal with.

My springs are 2" lower and ride very well.

I would NOT change the mount position on the truck as this will alter your steering geometry. Alter the beams if anything.
 
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