Hard choice...Lowering front suspension.
#1
Hard choice...Lowering front suspension.
On my 67 I'm lowering it all around. I'm doing an axle flip out back and I have a set of dream beams for the front. I have been giving serious thought to relocating the I-beam pivot point location up two inches on each side and running 2" drop springs for a total of 5" drop up front. I know I would also have to modify the front crossmember to clear the beams.
Currently I have the whole front clip off the truck and the engine out. So if I'm going to do this modification now is the time to do it.
I would like to hear you guys opinion on the matter. Pros and cons.
Currently I have the whole front clip off the truck and the engine out. So if I'm going to do this modification now is the time to do it.
I would like to hear you guys opinion on the matter. Pros and cons.
#2
Any time you use springs to lower something you lose suspension travel.
Now in your case maybe not if bump stops are moved higher also.
Also shorter spring are stiffer so you get a ruffer ride.
Now doing all this work and it will still handle & ride (ruffer) like the truck but lower.
Why not do a crown vic swap?
you get it lower, better handling and rides better.
Dave - - - -
Now in your case maybe not if bump stops are moved higher also.
Also shorter spring are stiffer so you get a ruffer ride.
Now doing all this work and it will still handle & ride (ruffer) like the truck but lower.
Why not do a crown vic swap?
you get it lower, better handling and rides better.
Dave - - - -
#5
Any time you use springs to lower something you lose suspension travel.
Now in your case maybe not if bump stops are moved higher also.
Also shorter spring are stiffer so you get a ruffer ride.
Now doing all this work and it will still handle & ride (ruffer) like the truck but lower.
Why not do a crown vic swap?
you get it lower, better handling and rides better.
Dave - - - -
Now in your case maybe not if bump stops are moved higher also.
Also shorter spring are stiffer so you get a ruffer ride.
Now doing all this work and it will still handle & ride (ruffer) like the truck but lower.
Why not do a crown vic swap?
you get it lower, better handling and rides better.
Dave - - - -
OP, to get away from the results Dave explained here you should use Explorer (the SUV) springs. There was a thread on here a while back where some gentleman did this and got a 2" drop. He used TRW part number CC870. He liked the ride they gave him.
GO HERE..... 2+" drop using explorer springs ( 1 2)
CraigerF100
#6
OP, to get away from the results Dave explained here you should use Explorer (the SUV) springs. There was a thread on here a while back where some gentleman did this and got a 2" drop. He used TRW part number CC870. He liked the ride they gave him.
GO HERE..... 2+" drop using explorer springs ( 1 2)
CraigerF100
GO HERE..... 2+" drop using explorer springs ( 1 2)
CraigerF100
#7
Here's a pic of what you bare wanting to do. I personally can't complain bout ride quality it's a little stiffer bUT did just get her up to 85mph the other day and she felt great. Also if you move pivot points expect to get new shocks early 90s e150 shocks bolt in and are shorter and seem to fit right when extended and compressed.
Axle flip 3in drop beams pivot points moved up.
Axle flip 3in drop beams pivot points moved up.
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#9
On my 67 I'm lowering it all around. I'm doing an axle flip out back and I have a set of dream beams for the front. I have been giving serious thought to relocating the I-beam pivot point location up two inches on each side and running 2" drop springs for a total of 5" drop up front. I know I would also have to modify the front crossmember to clear the beams.
Currently I have the whole front clip off the truck and the engine out. So if I'm going to do this modification now is the time to do it.
I would like to hear you guys opinion on the matter. Pros and cons.
Currently I have the whole front clip off the truck and the engine out. So if I'm going to do this modification now is the time to do it.
I would like to hear you guys opinion on the matter. Pros and cons.
#10
The thing I see wrong with moving the pivot points up and using lowering springs is wheel travel or more the lack there of.
With the springs you are putting the beams closer to the bump stops maybe 2"? Now you move the pivots up 2" to get the front camber right but you still have less travel.
How do you think this will ride when you hit bumps or you not going to drive this truck?
Check to see how much space is between the beam & bump stop stock. Then see if it has hit the bump stop, my bet it has.
Now remove 2" from that space and guess what will happen to that beam & bump stop?
Now if you are do a Jag suspension front & rear why do you ask on the pivots?
You just have to make sure the suspension has enough travel and the camber / caster can be dialed in, toe is easy most of the time.
Dave ----
With the springs you are putting the beams closer to the bump stops maybe 2"? Now you move the pivots up 2" to get the front camber right but you still have less travel.
How do you think this will ride when you hit bumps or you not going to drive this truck?
Check to see how much space is between the beam & bump stop stock. Then see if it has hit the bump stop, my bet it has.
Now remove 2" from that space and guess what will happen to that beam & bump stop?
Now if you are do a Jag suspension front & rear why do you ask on the pivots?
You just have to make sure the suspension has enough travel and the camber / caster can be dialed in, toe is easy most of the time.
Dave ----
#11
The thing I see wrong with moving the pivot points up and using lowering springs is wheel travel or more the lack there of.
With the springs you are putting the beams closer to the bump stops maybe 2"? Now you move the pivots up 2" to get the front camber right but you still have less travel.
How do you think this will ride when you hit bumps or you not going to drive this truck?
Check to see how much space is between the beam & bump stop stock. Then see if it has hit the bump stop, my bet it has.
Now remove 2" from that space and guess what will happen to that beam & bump stop?
Now if you are do a Jag suspension front & rear why do you ask on the pivots?
You just have to make sure the suspension has enough travel and the camber / caster can be dialed in, toe is easy most of the time.
Dave ----
With the springs you are putting the beams closer to the bump stops maybe 2"? Now you move the pivots up 2" to get the front camber right but you still have less travel.
How do you think this will ride when you hit bumps or you not going to drive this truck?
Check to see how much space is between the beam & bump stop stock. Then see if it has hit the bump stop, my bet it has.
Now remove 2" from that space and guess what will happen to that beam & bump stop?
Now if you are do a Jag suspension front & rear why do you ask on the pivots?
You just have to make sure the suspension has enough travel and the camber / caster can be dialed in, toe is easy most of the time.
Dave ----
I have the K-member all tacked in now. I need to finish boxing in the frame & welding everything together. Right now I'm grinding all the wish bones & a-frame casting Mark's off. Then when I get everything smooth I'll paint it all. I've already purchased all the rebuild parts. I'm also putting in all shiny Stainless Steel bolts and nilock nuts. It's starting to take shape.
#12
The thing I see wrong with moving the pivot points up and using lowering springs is wheel travel or more the lack there of.
With the springs you are putting the beams closer to the bump stops maybe 2"? Now you move the pivots up 2" to get the front camber right but you still have less travel.
How do you think this will ride when you hit bumps or you not going to drive this truck?
Check to see how much space is between the beam & bump stop stock. Then see if it has hit the bump stop, my bet it has.
Now remove 2" from that space and guess what will happen to that beam & bump stop?
Now if you are do a Jag suspension front & rear why do you ask on the pivots?
You just have to make sure the suspension has enough travel and the camber / caster can be dialed in, toe is easy most of the time.
Dave ----
With the springs you are putting the beams closer to the bump stops maybe 2"? Now you move the pivots up 2" to get the front camber right but you still have less travel.
How do you think this will ride when you hit bumps or you not going to drive this truck?
Check to see how much space is between the beam & bump stop stock. Then see if it has hit the bump stop, my bet it has.
Now remove 2" from that space and guess what will happen to that beam & bump stop?
Now if you are do a Jag suspension front & rear why do you ask on the pivots?
You just have to make sure the suspension has enough travel and the camber / caster can be dialed in, toe is easy most of the time.
Dave ----
#13
Eaton screwed up my order and I had to pay for return shipping, they were completely indifferent over their blatant mishandling.
I purchased a set from coilsprings.com and they are perfect, and a delight to deal with.
My springs are 2" lower and ride very well.
I would NOT change the mount position on the truck as this will alter your steering geometry. Alter the beams if anything.
I purchased a set from coilsprings.com and they are perfect, and a delight to deal with.
My springs are 2" lower and ride very well.
I would NOT change the mount position on the truck as this will alter your steering geometry. Alter the beams if anything.
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