1950 239 Flathead V8 Hesitation
#17
Hey guys. Need some help.
I got the truck up and running after about 4 months. It had been sitting for 26 years. Replaced most things (wires/plugs/rotor/points/vacuum advance on distributor/all wiring/ignition coil/etc). I had it running well, but then all of a sudden it stopped running well. I would get hesitation when I gave it gas and especially under load (acceleration).
I changed out the power valve and jets to what is needed at my altitude (thanks to Ross!), checked plugs, and spark to wires. Everything seemed fine. So, i was thinking maybe the distributor... so i turned bolt and it broke. Ok, so then I had it sitting for about a month, and it was so hot i never worked on it. But I finally welded a nut on and got the bolt out, and replaced distributor back where it was.
So, that got it running again, but the hesitation started up pretty quickly, mainly after it got to operating temperature. It didn't run too bad actually when driving, but I came to a stop in driveway and it died on me. Then I guess it was flooded and wouldn't start (another issue and i need to figure out these old vehicle tricks). First time working with carb, etc.
Oh, one other thing. Could it be the gas? It was running great on 91 octane (non-ethanol), and I put 85 non-ethanol since it's closer to the house (I'm at 6800ft, so it's like the normal 87 everywhere else). Could it be the lower octane? Maybe just bad gas?
Any help appreciated. I just don't get what's going on.
I got the truck up and running after about 4 months. It had been sitting for 26 years. Replaced most things (wires/plugs/rotor/points/vacuum advance on distributor/all wiring/ignition coil/etc). I had it running well, but then all of a sudden it stopped running well. I would get hesitation when I gave it gas and especially under load (acceleration).
I changed out the power valve and jets to what is needed at my altitude (thanks to Ross!), checked plugs, and spark to wires. Everything seemed fine. So, i was thinking maybe the distributor... so i turned bolt and it broke. Ok, so then I had it sitting for about a month, and it was so hot i never worked on it. But I finally welded a nut on and got the bolt out, and replaced distributor back where it was.
So, that got it running again, but the hesitation started up pretty quickly, mainly after it got to operating temperature. It didn't run too bad actually when driving, but I came to a stop in driveway and it died on me. Then I guess it was flooded and wouldn't start (another issue and i need to figure out these old vehicle tricks). First time working with carb, etc.
Oh, one other thing. Could it be the gas? It was running great on 91 octane (non-ethanol), and I put 85 non-ethanol since it's closer to the house (I'm at 6800ft, so it's like the normal 87 everywhere else). Could it be the lower octane? Maybe just bad gas?
Any help appreciated. I just don't get what's going on.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post17135006
#18
Brian, Did you do what we suggested back in May? It looks like we are plowing over the same old ground again?
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post17135006
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post17135006
I did not. I got it working after some fiddling, but I don't know how well it was seated on the rod. At the time I didn't think it was on there real good, but it was working! If it ain't broke don't fix it. Now it's broke. lol. It may have jumped off the end. I'll let you know, working it this weekend when i can.
I am thinking about an electric though, but I haven't researched if they are available for 6 volt. I do recall that plate you made, nice work! I'd do something similar if i switched to electric. I guess an electric also prevents vapor lock, so probably better all around.
#19
Brand & type of fuel pump please . Where made ? Make sure you are getting full action w/ fuel cam mechanism . When you have it off look inside the little dome on the pump . The cam arm doesn't have a lot of throw.Check the cap on fuel pump arm . Found a POS china pump arm cap on one I had Measure the fuel pump rod against spec. May need to look at the condenser & inside the dist. for worn wires . This problem has me curious as to the cure . Please report back when found .
#20
Ok, so got the fuel pump fixed again. Looks like I did a bad job on install last time. The housing was a little loose and the basket was flipped over. This time, I definitely got the basket over the rod and it's tight. Working fine now. If it happens again I'll think about that in-line electric one.
I still have the hesitation, mainly under load. In fact, I thought it was running great until i took it around the block and the hesitation started again.
1. I used timing light to line up marks exactly.
2. I used vacuum gauge to check and set idle screws at max vacuum. It was only about 2 rotations from all the way in, and letting it out further did absolutely nothing. This is about where I had it set originally by ear.
3. Put the line back in the vaccuum advance and took it for a ride. Plugged the wiper vacuum port.
I'm getting 15.5 vacuum at idle, and it's steady. According to the chart above i may have poor rings or "oil" <-- not sure what poor oil means".
When i do a quick throttle, it goes to 2-3 or so and back up to 17, then back to 15.5. I didn't really notice the number it went back up to, but it definitely didn't go to 0 on throttle since I knew to look for that.
I did notice when i turned the distributor counter clockwise it ran a little "faster/better" and had a little better compression. I couldn't go far enough for it to run rough though because the vacuum advance was hitting the thermostat housing. Maybe I need to take distributor shaft out and make one turn and try timing it again?
I have the new power valve (5.5 for my altitude of 6800ft) and 0.049 jets. However, when this started I was at 7.5 and 0.051 and it was running VERY rich on spark plugs (lots of black soot). I haven't checked the spark plugs yet after having it running for 30 minutes working on timing.
The exhaust was not quite as smooth (I think). It was kind of popping a little maybe, but I never put my hand over it before it had this issue so it may be exactly the same.
Thoughts?
I still have the hesitation, mainly under load. In fact, I thought it was running great until i took it around the block and the hesitation started again.
1. I used timing light to line up marks exactly.
2. I used vacuum gauge to check and set idle screws at max vacuum. It was only about 2 rotations from all the way in, and letting it out further did absolutely nothing. This is about where I had it set originally by ear.
3. Put the line back in the vaccuum advance and took it for a ride. Plugged the wiper vacuum port.
I'm getting 15.5 vacuum at idle, and it's steady. According to the chart above i may have poor rings or "oil" <-- not sure what poor oil means".
When i do a quick throttle, it goes to 2-3 or so and back up to 17, then back to 15.5. I didn't really notice the number it went back up to, but it definitely didn't go to 0 on throttle since I knew to look for that.
I did notice when i turned the distributor counter clockwise it ran a little "faster/better" and had a little better compression. I couldn't go far enough for it to run rough though because the vacuum advance was hitting the thermostat housing. Maybe I need to take distributor shaft out and make one turn and try timing it again?
I have the new power valve (5.5 for my altitude of 6800ft) and 0.049 jets. However, when this started I was at 7.5 and 0.051 and it was running VERY rich on spark plugs (lots of black soot). I haven't checked the spark plugs yet after having it running for 30 minutes working on timing.
The exhaust was not quite as smooth (I think). It was kind of popping a little maybe, but I never put my hand over it before it had this issue so it may be exactly the same.
Thoughts?
#21
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#25
#26
Numbers. Remember I'm at 6800ft altitude. All tests at operating temp.
- I advanced the timing 2 degrees and it ran a little better, then 4 and it was even better. Should I keep going?
- 3psi from fuel pump to carb all the time even at WOT
- 1.5 psi vacuum advance at idle, drops to almost 0 at WOT
- Possible bad news... 2 cylinders have 75 psi, the others are between 65 and 70.
#27
Numbers. Remember I'm at 6800ft altitude. All tests at operating temp.
- I advanced the timing 2 degrees and it ran a little better, then 4 and it was even better. Should I keep going?
- 3psi from fuel pump to carb all the time even at WOT
- 1.5 psi vacuum advance at idle, drops to almost 0 at WOT
- Possible bad news... 2 cylinders have 75 psi, the others are between 65 and 70.
#28
#29
You know, my 51 used to bog out around 40 45 mph. Turned out to be gas tank . I had cleaned that thing to no end with all kinds of carb cleaner and chemicals. Then took it and had it steam cleaned. You would think that would be good. Turns out it still had crap in there that would restrict the flow of gas above high idle. I finally broke down and bought a new tank. Solved the issue.
#30