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I would add approx $15 more, and buy a test kit usable on multiple vehicles.
That's what I'm debating on doing as well, I would just like to have a permanent gauge in the engine bay. Do you know if the Schrader valves are the same size between the 5.0L and the 7.5L? That gauge kit is for the 5.0L but I believe someone said in a forum somewhere that it would fit the 460 as well
I'm guessing that off the assembly line, there was a matching/corresponding wire on the interior side of the plug.
It may be too big of a job to fix that, so you could tap into the wire that; “gets lost into the dash somewhere“ , and run it out to the wire on the outside plug.
Yes that's essentially what I have done. I've attached a little diagram I drew up showing how it's wired now. I will probably run a new large diameter wire from the interior to the engine bay and directly connect the large diameter GY/Y wires instead of tapping into the PR/OR wire
One of my concerns is that you may blow the #5 - 15 amp fuse by adding the load of the O2 Heater.
I believe the voltage flow is from the Battery to the Ignition Switch, back out, then spits off to the Fuse Box & O2 Heater. So, fuse #5 normally does not see the load of the O2 Heater. Now it does…….
So, keep an eye on Fuse #5, I think it powers Turn Signals & Back-up Lights.
I would change the 30 amp fuse for a 10 amp, this will protect the 15 amp and it’s circuits.
Thank you, that was a final draft for show purposes haha
That's a good idea about throwing in the 10 amp in place of the 30. I'll do that tomorrow when I replace some vacuum lines, sprk plug wires, cap and rotor button. I'm hoping this will finally correct the stumbling/sputtering issues, I've already cleared the afternoon so I have nothing to bother me. I will keep the post up to date. Thanks vjsimone, you've been a great help with this
Timing not right? I figured it was. When setting the timing to 10 degrees and plugging the spout in, the timing advances to 30 degrees (the manual that came with my code reader said it should do this). I figured that's why the guy I bought the truck from had the timing set to 30 degrees without the spout connector plugged in. Does that not make sense?
Yes, but the computer has no control of the timing with the Spout out, so, when you get up to 3000 rpm, she falls on her face. The timing should advance as the rpm increases, but it can't with the Spout out, it is stuck @ 30 deg. btdc.
The Fuel adapters that you tried on your Schrader valve, were they to big or too small ?
Well I actually haven't tried any yet, I was curious of the size difference between the 5.0L and the 7.5L Schrader valve. I was going to buy that "kit" with the schrader adapter for the 5.0L included, I just wasn't sure if it would fit the 7.5L
Originally Posted by vjsimone
Like willowbilly3 said and your code reader manual; "Do All Scheduled Maintenance Prior to Troubleshooting", well, better late than later….
Yes, I now understand just how much of a difference performing simple maintenance and a tune up can make. I'm definitely learning though!
Originally Posted by vjsimone
Yes, but the computer has no control of the timing with the Spout out, so, when you get up to 3000 rpm, she falls on her face. The timing should advance as the rpm increases, but it can't with the Spout out, it is stuck @ 30 deg. btdc.
Okay yes that makes sense to me, I was just confused on if you meant there was another issue in regards to the timing. Now that I have the truck drivable with the spout in, its noticeable how much easier and smoother it runs through the rpms now
Does anyone happen to know the sizes of the vacuum lines? I used a set of calipers and measured the ID of a couple lines but the calipers were giving me too tight of tolerances and was reading down to 1/128" so I would have to either round up or down. I've ordered 5 feet of both 3/8" line and 5/16" line to see how the fitment goes but it'd be great if I could get the correct sizes and order the rest of the lines at one time
When does your stumbling occur? As you initially accelerate, or at a higher rpm ?
It stumbles most right from a start, the first second or two once the clutch starts to engage. It kind of clears up around 1500-2000 rpms. Other than that, it's mostly when I accelerate mid-throttle or so and up that it stumbles. It also "pops" out of the exhaust (I'm assuming as if unburnt fuel is combusting in the exhaust, but im not sure exactly) more now than it did before. It seems to do it more when im decelerating and then disengage the clutch.
From my understanding, if it had a vacuum leak i would be adding more air to the fuel mixture causing it to starve for fuel under load/acceleration. That would mean this "pop" could be caused when i let off of the throttle relieving vacuum pressure and in turn richening the fuel ratio temporarily, causing unburnt fuel to make in to the exhaust and combust. Am I on the right thought path here?
Originally Posted by vjsimone
Are you still getting a fluctuating Idle ?
Yes still getting a fluctuating idle which would make even more sense of a vacuum leak, correct? I planned on performing the idle adjustment procedure you showed me after i install the new vacuum lines, plug wires, cap and rotor button (as long as I don't find more issues).
Originally Posted by vjsimone
After troubleshooting is complete, I recommend soldering all outside electrical connections.
I dont think that would be a bad idea either, thank you
10-17-2017, 01:34 PM
