351w positive identification please (I read the sticky, still confused)

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Old 09-21-2017, 03:06 PM
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351w positive identification please (I read the sticky, still confused)

Just picked up what I really hope is a 351w. The valve cover bolts look correct.
Seller said he pulled it from a 1978 f100 but I think the casting says 1979 Galaxy?

By the starter facing down on the block I get:
D9AE 8015 - ED

Does that say 1979 Galaxy engine?

After that it says "76"
Below that is IK22 or LK22, hard to read.

Intake manifold has;
D5AE-9425-DC
And
18728548

And from what I understand you can't verify that it's a 351w from that number, is that correct?

Thanks!
- Joe -
 
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Old 09-22-2017, 06:24 AM
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"A" does not denote a Galaxie, but rather a full size Ford car. Be that as it may, the "A" does not mean it was installed in a full size Ford at the factory. These are the Engineering characters used to assign the engineering costs to a particular vehicle line (bean counter stuff) D9 would indicate that it's a 79 or later 351W block. The 1K22 is the date code, it was cast Oct 22, 1981. And yes, it's a 351W block , as none of the 302 blocks had an "A" in the Engineering numbers (that I'm aware of) Your numbers should read D9AE-6015-ED, 6015 is the part number for an engine block, not 8015
 
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Old 09-22-2017, 06:26 AM
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The intake numbers you posted should be 13726548, that's the firing order.
 
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Old 09-22-2017, 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by baddad457
"A" does not denote a Galaxie, but rather a full size Ford car. Be that as it may, the "A" does not mean it was installed in a full size Ford at the factory. These are the Engineering characters used to assign the engineering costs to a particular vehicle line (bean counter stuff) D9 would indicate that it's a 79 or later 351W block. The 1K22 is the date code, it was cast Oct 22, 1981. And yes, it's a 351W block , as none of the 302 blocks had an "A" in the Engineering numbers (that I'm aware of) Your numbers should read D9AE-6015-ED, 6015 is the part number for an engine block, not 8015
So the date code of 1979 is just the design of the cast, not the exact year? It's after 1981 then, any idea the range? Like 82-85 or similar?
thanks, very helpful!

Originally Posted by baddad457
The intake numbers you posted should be 13726548, that's the firing order.
Of course, more wire brushing would have helped. I should have put that together on my own, duh. I'll blame lack of sleep, I slipped a disc in my back and I've had a couple hours sleep in the last four days, not thinking so clearly anymore..
 
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Old 09-22-2017, 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by lvin4jc
So the date code of 1979 is just the design of the cast, not the exact year? It's after 1981 then, any idea the range? Like 82-85 or similar?
thanks, very helpful!



Of course, more wire brushing would have helped. I should have put that together on my own, duh. I'll blame lack of sleep, I slipped a disc in my back and I've had a couple hours sleep in the last four days, not thinking so clearly anymore..
A "K" date ( october ) in 1981 would mean it was installed in an. 82 model year vehicle. What vehicle is anyone's guess, could be anything offered with a 351W

​​​​​​
 
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Old 09-22-2017, 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by baddad457
A "K" date ( october ) in 1981 would mean it was installed in an. 82 model year vehicle. What vehicle is anyone's guess, could be anything offered with a 351W

​​​​​​
Ok, that's helpful to use for looking up parts. I'm needing a flywheel for it that will mate to my Borg Warner T-18. I didn't realize how hard finding a flywheel would be. Just looking online at my current 1969 240 the parts houses are saying 164 teeth. So i'm assuming that the new flywheel will need to be the same but now with a 28oz counter weight. It's weird, flexplates are easy to find, but flywheels seem to be rare online for some reason.

Thanks guys!
 
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Old 09-22-2017, 09:56 PM
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Are you shopping for a new flywheel ? Or used ? New shouldn't be a problem. If used my advice is to steer clear of a used flywheel. Nothing but trouble there. Both in how it could have been abused and how many times it could have been resurfaced before you get it. You'll need to also make sure it's compatible with the pressure plate you use.
 
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Old 09-23-2017, 12:31 AM
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Originally Posted by baddad457
Are you shopping for a new flywheel ? Or used ? New shouldn't be a problem. If used my advice is to steer clear of a used flywheel. Nothing but trouble there. Both in how it could have been abused and how many times it could have been resurfaced before you get it. You'll need to also make sure it's compatible with the pressure plate you use.
Where's a good place to buy new flywheels? The normal parts houses don't seem to have any
 
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Old 09-23-2017, 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by lvin4jc
Where's a good place to buy new flywheels? The normal parts houses don't seem to have any
Try Summit Racing
 
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Old 09-23-2017, 08:26 AM
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I used a Sachs NFW 1129 on my 351w. 164 teeth and 28oz imbalance. Reasonably priced.
 
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Old 09-23-2017, 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Uni Moe
I used a Sachs NFW 1129 on my 351w. 164 teeth and 28oz imbalance. Reasonably priced.
Perfect, thank you!
 
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Old 09-24-2017, 03:51 PM
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Flywheel

It looks like the Sachs unit is made in China, but how badly could they screw up balance and metallurgy?

 
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Old 09-24-2017, 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Beanscoot
It looks like the Sachs unit is made in China, but how badly could they screw up balance and metallurgy?

Some of it gets a bad rap and deservedly so. Other stuff is ok, like the Eagle crank in my 13 year old 331.
 
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Old 09-24-2017, 11:54 PM
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True. It's not all terrible, a big problem is quality control.

But when they get that figured out, so that their stuff is cheap and good, we are doomed.
 
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