Notices
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

No Crank - 89' F150 5.0L

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 09-21-2017, 06:38 AM
Glaser67's Avatar
Glaser67
Glaser67 is offline
Tuned
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 497
Likes: 0
Received 28 Likes on 20 Posts
No Crank - 89' F150 5.0L

Hey all,

Recently when I went to start her up, I got no crank, and just the click of the starter solenoid.

What I verified solid connections/grounds visually, then tested battery voltage at 12.6. I tested voltage across the 2 large solenoid terminals when I had a buddy turn the key, and only got 0.2 volts, so I think it must be the (newer) solenoid. Jumping with a screwdriver just created a bunch of spark.

So, with jumper cables going from my buddies car to the starter motor terminal on the solenoid, the starter just started to click slowly and quietly, again with the cables starting to smoke.

So I crawled underneath to make sure my crank isn't seized, thank god it isn't.

I suspect an issue with the starter could have burned up the solenoid?

Is there any more test I can do or is my next step having the starter bench tested? I just don't want to throw parts at this, I prefer to learn to diagnose and add that experience for all of us to sufferance ya know?

Thanks all,
-Glaser67
 
  #2  
Old 09-21-2017, 07:41 PM
Glaser67's Avatar
Glaser67
Glaser67 is offline
Tuned
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 497
Likes: 0
Received 28 Likes on 20 Posts
Anyone have an idea?
 
  #3  
Old 09-30-2017, 09:40 AM
Glaser67's Avatar
Glaser67
Glaser67 is offline
Tuned
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 497
Likes: 0
Received 28 Likes on 20 Posts
So after I received the new starter and solenoid, I replaced the solenoid and no result. I removed the starter and had it bench tested; it was burnt up. I replaced the starter, charged the battery, tuned the key, and only get the click from the solenoid.

Crawled back under to turn over by hand thinking it may be a tooth on the starter or flywheel...seized. Tried turning CCW and nothing. Tried rocking back and forth, nothing. Oil level fine, coolant level fine. Mechanical oil pressure gauge and temp were fine when I last shut it off. A couple drives before that it was running a bit hot, but after a rest it was fine.

Damn, where do I begin...

Is it possible that sitting for a few weeks could have caused this? It turned over by hand when I went to diagnose a few weeks ago, what could have happened since then? Should I try and impact on the crank to try to get it to budge or start pulling it apart?

This is my 2nd rebuilt 302 in this truck after throwing a rod in the 1st one, I'm at a loss and could use some advise.

Thanks all,
-Glaser67
 
  #4  
Old 09-30-2017, 11:15 AM
88n94's Avatar
88n94
88n94 is online now
Cargo Master
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 3,006
Likes: 0
Received 125 Likes on 108 Posts
So if I understand you correctly, you can't get the engine to move with a socket on the crankshaft bolt? How long of a handle do you have on the socket?
 
  #5  
Old 09-30-2017, 12:07 PM
Glaser67's Avatar
Glaser67
Glaser67 is offline
Tuned
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 497
Likes: 0
Received 28 Likes on 20 Posts
Originally Posted by 88n94
So if I understand you correctly, you can't get the engine to move with a socket on the crankshaft bolt? How long of a handle do you have on the socket?
Just a standard 1/2 ratchet. It turned fine by hand a few weeks ago and has sat since waiting on parts. Do you suggest a breaker bar? I was think about taking the plugs out and squirting some pb or something down in there before I pull the engine alltogether.
 
  #6  
Old 09-30-2017, 01:01 PM
88n94's Avatar
88n94
88n94 is online now
Cargo Master
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 3,006
Likes: 0
Received 125 Likes on 108 Posts
Yhoa, it shouldn't have locked up that soon. I would try a longer bar on the socket to nudge it loose first thing. If that doesn't work the Pb blaster in the spark plug holes would be a good idea.
 
  #7  
Old 09-30-2017, 01:26 PM
joey2fords's Avatar
joey2fords
joey2fords is offline
Fleet Mechanic
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,301
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
take the plugs out first, to make sure the engine isn't hydrolocked.
 
  #8  
Old 09-30-2017, 02:48 PM
R&RFord's Avatar
R&RFord
R&RFord is online now
Fleet Mechanic
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Candy Mountain
Posts: 1,570
Received 253 Likes on 202 Posts
It is in park or neutral when you try to start it right?
 
  #9  
Old 09-30-2017, 03:34 PM
Glaser67's Avatar
Glaser67
Glaser67 is offline
Tuned
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 497
Likes: 0
Received 28 Likes on 20 Posts
Originally Posted by 88n94
So if I understand you correctly, you can't get the engine to move with a socket on the crankshaft bolt? How long of a handle do you have on the socket?
Originally Posted by R&RFord
It is in park or neutral when you try to start it right?
Of course, clutch to the floor and I hear the solednoid click. I took out the passenger side plugs to get the header out the way to remove the starter. Tomorrow I'll remove all plugs, spray in some pb blaster and try a breaker bar on the crank. God help me fellas! And thanks for the replies
 
  #10  
Old 10-05-2017, 05:31 PM
Glaser67's Avatar
Glaser67
Glaser67 is offline
Tuned
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 497
Likes: 0
Received 28 Likes on 20 Posts
Well gents,

for 4 nights I've pulled the plugs, sprayed in a liberal amount of PB blaster, pulled the plugs, and rocked it back and fourth in 5th gear to no avail.

She's seized.

I'm going to pull the upper, then the heads, and go from there.
 
  #11  
Old 10-05-2017, 05:59 PM
rla2005's Avatar
rla2005
rla2005 is online now
Hotshot
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 19,583
Received 1,163 Likes on 918 Posts
Originally Posted by Glaser67
Well gents,

for 4 nights I've pulled the plugs, sprayed in a liberal amount of PB blaster, pulled the plugs, and rocked it back and fourth in 5th gear to no avail.

She's seized.

I'm going to pull the upper, then the heads, and go from there.
Ouch.......
 
  #12  
Old 10-21-2017, 10:04 AM
Glaser67's Avatar
Glaser67
Glaser67 is offline
Tuned
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 497
Likes: 0
Received 28 Likes on 20 Posts
I thought about the problem all week and decided to pull the new starter before I removed the heads, and what do ya know...wrong starter binded up the flywheel. After I removed she turns over just fine. I feel like a fool but am relieved at the same time.





So now I already have the upper and lower manifold pulled. Lower gaskets will need to be replaced for sure, which means carefully scraping the RTV off without getting it in the lifter valley or in the cylinders. Given that and the fact that my cylinders have a bunch of PB in there, do you guys think it would be worth while to just pull the heads to scrape the RTV and suck up the PB and have a peak inside? or just put it back together and crank it with the plugs out for a bit? Also I have steel head gaskets.





Thanks all!
-Glaser67
The one to the right has the gear not recessed, I believe for automatics? Well not the M5OD!

That debris is from removing the upper...
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
lamenytro
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
3
07-03-2011 08:51 AM
JamesHajek
1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
24
01-12-2011 05:32 PM
84F-250HD460
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
7
04-29-2010 10:25 AM
stevetopps
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
4
11-11-2007 03:10 PM
BROCO
Electrical Systems/Wiring
2
02-05-2004 08:15 AM



Quick Reply: No Crank - 89' F150 5.0L



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:09 PM.