No Crank - 89' F150 5.0L
#1
No Crank - 89' F150 5.0L
Hey all,
Recently when I went to start her up, I got no crank, and just the click of the starter solenoid.
What I verified solid connections/grounds visually, then tested battery voltage at 12.6. I tested voltage across the 2 large solenoid terminals when I had a buddy turn the key, and only got 0.2 volts, so I think it must be the (newer) solenoid. Jumping with a screwdriver just created a bunch of spark.
So, with jumper cables going from my buddies car to the starter motor terminal on the solenoid, the starter just started to click slowly and quietly, again with the cables starting to smoke.
So I crawled underneath to make sure my crank isn't seized, thank god it isn't.
I suspect an issue with the starter could have burned up the solenoid?
Is there any more test I can do or is my next step having the starter bench tested? I just don't want to throw parts at this, I prefer to learn to diagnose and add that experience for all of us to sufferance ya know?
Thanks all,
-Glaser67
Recently when I went to start her up, I got no crank, and just the click of the starter solenoid.
What I verified solid connections/grounds visually, then tested battery voltage at 12.6. I tested voltage across the 2 large solenoid terminals when I had a buddy turn the key, and only got 0.2 volts, so I think it must be the (newer) solenoid. Jumping with a screwdriver just created a bunch of spark.
So, with jumper cables going from my buddies car to the starter motor terminal on the solenoid, the starter just started to click slowly and quietly, again with the cables starting to smoke.
So I crawled underneath to make sure my crank isn't seized, thank god it isn't.
I suspect an issue with the starter could have burned up the solenoid?
Is there any more test I can do or is my next step having the starter bench tested? I just don't want to throw parts at this, I prefer to learn to diagnose and add that experience for all of us to sufferance ya know?
Thanks all,
-Glaser67
#3
So after I received the new starter and solenoid, I replaced the solenoid and no result. I removed the starter and had it bench tested; it was burnt up. I replaced the starter, charged the battery, tuned the key, and only get the click from the solenoid.
Crawled back under to turn over by hand thinking it may be a tooth on the starter or flywheel...seized. Tried turning CCW and nothing. Tried rocking back and forth, nothing. Oil level fine, coolant level fine. Mechanical oil pressure gauge and temp were fine when I last shut it off. A couple drives before that it was running a bit hot, but after a rest it was fine.
Damn, where do I begin...
Is it possible that sitting for a few weeks could have caused this? It turned over by hand when I went to diagnose a few weeks ago, what could have happened since then? Should I try and impact on the crank to try to get it to budge or start pulling it apart?
This is my 2nd rebuilt 302 in this truck after throwing a rod in the 1st one, I'm at a loss and could use some advise.
Thanks all,
-Glaser67
Crawled back under to turn over by hand thinking it may be a tooth on the starter or flywheel...seized. Tried turning CCW and nothing. Tried rocking back and forth, nothing. Oil level fine, coolant level fine. Mechanical oil pressure gauge and temp were fine when I last shut it off. A couple drives before that it was running a bit hot, but after a rest it was fine.
Damn, where do I begin...
Is it possible that sitting for a few weeks could have caused this? It turned over by hand when I went to diagnose a few weeks ago, what could have happened since then? Should I try and impact on the crank to try to get it to budge or start pulling it apart?
This is my 2nd rebuilt 302 in this truck after throwing a rod in the 1st one, I'm at a loss and could use some advise.
Thanks all,
-Glaser67
#5
Just a standard 1/2 ratchet. It turned fine by hand a few weeks ago and has sat since waiting on parts. Do you suggest a breaker bar? I was think about taking the plugs out and squirting some pb or something down in there before I pull the engine alltogether.
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I thought about the problem all week and decided to pull the new starter before I removed the heads, and what do ya know...wrong starter binded up the flywheel. After I removed she turns over just fine. I feel like a fool but am relieved at the same time.
So now I already have the upper and lower manifold pulled. Lower gaskets will need to be replaced for sure, which means carefully scraping the RTV off without getting it in the lifter valley or in the cylinders. Given that and the fact that my cylinders have a bunch of PB in there, do you guys think it would be worth while to just pull the heads to scrape the RTV and suck up the PB and have a peak inside? or just put it back together and crank it with the plugs out for a bit? Also I have steel head gaskets.
Thanks all!
-Glaser67
The one to the right has the gear not recessed, I believe for automatics? Well not the M5OD!
That debris is from removing the upper...
So now I already have the upper and lower manifold pulled. Lower gaskets will need to be replaced for sure, which means carefully scraping the RTV off without getting it in the lifter valley or in the cylinders. Given that and the fact that my cylinders have a bunch of PB in there, do you guys think it would be worth while to just pull the heads to scrape the RTV and suck up the PB and have a peak inside? or just put it back together and crank it with the plugs out for a bit? Also I have steel head gaskets.
Thanks all!
-Glaser67
The one to the right has the gear not recessed, I believe for automatics? Well not the M5OD!
That debris is from removing the upper...
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