1993 F250 7.3NA 4x4 E4OD - Replaced Transmission, Doing System Checks, what are these codes? - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

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1993 F250 7.3NA 4x4 E4OD - Replaced Transmission, Doing System Checks, what are these codes?

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1993 F250 7.3NA 4x4 E4OD - Replaced Transmission, Doing System Checks, what are these codes?

  #1  
Old 09-18-2017, 07:13 PM
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Question 1993 F250 7.3NA 4x4 E4OD - Replaced Transmission, Doing System Checks, what are these codes?

So I have replaced the transmission in my 1993 F250 7.3NA 4x4 E4OD

I know that it is important for all sensors to be functioning and properly adjusted if you want to keep your E4OD in good health.

All the posts I have read always say first thing to do is pull codes, So I got an innova 3145 for $25 to make reading codes easier, I am Always going to own a Ford Truck so seems like a good investment.

The codes that I got were: 23, 10, 11

when I looked them up here https://web.archive.org/web/20050928...index.php?p=14

this is what I am seeing:
23 - Closed throttle TPS voltage higher or lower than expected
10 - Cylinder #1 Failed Cylinder Balance Test. EDIT: (just read the innova 3145 manual, code 10 is a seperation code after the last error has been received, so maybe the TPS is the only code.)
11 - System pass! EDIT: (just read the innova 3145 manual, code 11 indicates that all the relays and actuators(and their related circuits) that were tested are OK, and no faults were found.)

From these codes it looks like I need to either adjust or replace the TPS.

I have no idea what Cylinder #1 Failed Cylinder Balance Test means, or what sensor could even provide that feedback.

code 11 System pass! actually sounds like a good code, like oki dokie were all done, is that right?

The sensors I see discussed the most are:

TPS - throttle position sensor, test
MLPS - manual lever position sensor, (gear shifter sensor) test
VSS - Vehicle Speed sensor, (rear pumpkin) test

TCC - Torque Converter Lockup Solenoid? assuming its part of the solenoid Block.
IAC - Idle Air Control sensor

Another thing I remember reading about a year or so ago, but cant remember all the details, is something about a bad ground at the brake lights taking the E4OD in and out of gear and burning it up, or something to that affect, I cant really remember.

Which sensors should I be testing now that I have pulled the codes, I want this E4OD to last for as long as it can, and I drive like an old grandpa to conserve fuel most of the time, and dont usually haul more than 3,000 lbs and probably less than 2,000 miles in a year, so I am really hoping this tranny will last a bit.

I did a Flush according to Marks guide: https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...nsmission.html

so its got a new filter and Ford Motorcraft Mercon V fluid.

I found a 96 powerstroke at the wrecking yard last year and snagged the 3/8 lines as well as the stacked plate cooler and the bypass valve, but I have not installed it yet, would have grabbed the pan off that tranny too but they drill a hole in the pan even though the drain plug was right there genius!

Sorry I typed so much, and thank you very much if you took the time to read, hoping to get some feedback on anything else I should check or do before putting this truck back into service. I want this tranny to last a long while.
 
  #2  
Old 09-19-2017, 11:33 AM
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hey! something I may finally be able to help with!


my code reader gives a letter after the number "o" or "c"
if you get a 23o it is probably because you didn't have the accelerator pressed to the floor during the test,


if your not familiar somewhere in here is a very good write up about using the code reader
 
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Old 09-19-2017, 11:34 AM
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also, disconnect the battery for 30 minutes to clear "c" codes
 
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Old 09-19-2017, 11:37 AM
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OH! you have to put the pedal to the floor for the test? I had no idea. Thank You! (left ya some rep)

I went ahead and ordered a new TPS and MLPS. I have read that the TPS should be replaced every 50K miles because it is a wear item. Both of these sensors affect operation of the E4OD so I figured I would just replace them, they are a lot cheaper than having a transmission issue again. (and I can keep the ones im removing as emergency backups)

I am not going to buy a new VSS for the rear pumpkin though, it appears to be working, and since it also controls my speedometer I would think it would be obvious if it started to go bad, plus I have 1-2 extras as well.

I am also going to get some electrical contact cleaner spray, and clean all my plugs and then coat them with electrical grease when the new sensors arrive.
 
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Old 03-27-2018, 11:29 PM
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Question What would cause out of range OHM values on MLPS

So I replaced the MLPS, I immediately noticed that my reverse lights now come on easily just by changing the gear to reverse.
On the old one you had to kinda play with the shifter.

One thing that concerns me is I decided to test the OHM values...
Below is the value ranges you should see with ohm meter on pins 6 and 7, my recorded values are in parenthesis.

P - 3770-4607 (690)
R - 1304-1593 (525)
N - 660-870 (388)
D - 361-442 (269)
2 - 190-232 (167)
1 - 78-95 (78)

The only one that fits the spec range is gear 1. All the others are off, what could account for this? Is there anything else I should check?
The part I installed is new, Motorcraft SW5978

EDIT: The only thing I can think to do is clean any connectors I can find, the ones at the MLPS are squeeky clean, but I'll check the solenoid block connections tomorrow. (no idea if that connection could affect the MLPS readings)

OH! also the test did not indicate if the harness should be connected to the MLPS while doing the test, mine was, maybe I should repeat the test with the harness disconnected, and just use alligator clips on the pins in the sensor.
 

Last edited by jakegaisser; 03-27-2018 at 11:35 PM. Reason: title edit
  #6  
Old 03-28-2018, 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by jakegaisser View Post
So I replaced the MLPS, I immediately noticed that my reverse lights now come on easily just by changing the gear to reverse.
On the old one you had to kinda play with the shifter.

One thing that concerns me is I decided to test the OHM values...
Below is the value ranges you should see with ohm meter on pins 6 and 7, my recorded values are in parenthesis.

P - 3770-4607 (690)
R - 1304-1593 (525)
N - 660-870 (388)
D - 361-442 (269)
2 - 190-232 (167)
1 - 78-95 (78)

The only one that fits the spec range is gear 1. All the others are off, what could account for this? Is there anything else I should check?
The part I installed is new, Motorcraft SW5978

EDIT: The only thing I can think to do is clean any connectors I can find, the ones at the MLPS are squeeky clean, but I'll check the solenoid block connections tomorrow. (no idea if that connection could affect the MLPS readings)

OH! also the test did not indicate if the harness should be connected to the MLPS while doing the test, mine was, maybe I should repeat the test with the harness disconnected, and just use alligator clips on the pins in the sensor.
You should be checking pins 2 and 3 of the MLPS, when doing resistance tests you must always disconnect what your trying to test.

Pin 2 is blue/yellow and pin 3 is grey/red

 
  #7  
Old 03-29-2018, 01:33 PM
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Though I prefer to,you don't need to set the new range sensors (formerly called MLPS) with a meter.It's likely you just didn't line up the correct two lines before install.
Range sensor values also posted.

 
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