My 7.3 with 240K needed injector cups due to a lot of diesel in the coolant. Was running ok prior to the job, just lots of diesel in the coolant. Changed all cups and injectors with the help of Riff Raff tools, etc. Replaced both valve cover gaskets and pigtails under valve covers. Injectors came from Full Force Diesel and were rebuilt injectors.

I've had hell getting this engine running again. New batteries and 2 days of cranking produced almost no results even after following all of the HPOP reservoir top offs and oil rail fills. Finally started and seemed to run ok at 1200+ RPM. Will not idle! I've run this engine at high idle for at least 2-3 hours total with breaks overnight. No matter what I do, I cannot get it to idle or shift into gear in order to run the **** out of it as suggested by other forums.

If it sits overnight, it will start with moderate throttle but after warming up, will not idle and will not start again after I attempt to let it idle. How can this be air in the system after all of this time? Hard to believe.

At this point, I'll take any advice.

Thanks in advance..

 

Do you have an OBD scan tool of some sort to connect to it and use Torque Pro or Forscan?

On a side not, it almost sounds like an IPR issue. The reason I say this is because of the no start after being warm issue. Get a can of compressed air and turn it upside down and spray the IPR after the engine is warm and will not start. Also, just to try, unplug the ICP and give it a try to start. This costs nothing and will have no adverse effects on the truck if it is unplugged.

 

I do have a Diablosport tuner that reads codes. Currently, it has nothing stored.

When I try to let the engine come down to idle, it feels like it's stumbling a little bit as though it has an injector or two that isn't opening. It doesn't seem like it's lost enough injectors not to idle though. Very puzzling.

 

I'd say it's time to pull the valve covers and have someone crank it while you watch.

If you can find something to monitor live data, it would be helpful to read ICP and IPR duty cycle first, but it sounds like you're not building enough oil pressure. See if you can find the leak visually, or see which injectors are not firing. (you won't make a mess and fling oil everywhere while doing this)

 

I'm not certain if my Diablosport Predator will stream live data from the ICS or any other sensors. I'm going to try a few more things before taking the covers off and digging back in to the injectors but I think it's inevitable. I spoke with Clay at Riff Raff and he seemed to think that I still had air in the system but I can't see how. I'd like to actually drive it under a load but I can't get it to run in gear to do so. Thanks for the advice.

 

Finally made some progress today. Cleaned the ICP plug as well as the IGR plug and attempted to start. Fired up right away and idled normally. Had great throttle response and seemed ok. Let it warm a little and then killed it. Would not start again so I cooled the IGR and it did start and idle normally. I attempted to drive it and it stalled blocking my street completely. Was able to get it started again and just parked it.

I have no real time OBD scanner to monitor any pressures but I assume that I have either a bad ICP sensor or IPR. It did throw the low ICP code. The good thing is, it did seem to run fine and not miss on any cylinders so I assume that I don't need to crack open the valve covers again. Maybe I'm on the right path......... In need of an ice cold beer at this point!

Thanks for the help.

 

Just FYI, I ordered the AutoEnginuity Ford bundle. I'm in the North Texas area, specifically North Dallas. If anyone needs a hand with scanning, I'd share the tool. One things for certain.... These forums and tool wielding folks here are priceless. I cannot stand to pay $4-5K for a repair that I can do for ⅓ the cost knowing that I likely did better work than any shop. In addition to that, if anyone knows of a reputable Powerstroke shop in the North Texas area, please post. I don't know of any that I trust and certainly would never go to the Ford dealer. Yikes!

 

Deleted, I missed some of your comments while talking to my wife and drinking some beer.

I would go with what Chris has suggested below as your next step.

 

ICP sensor won't cause that. You can drive with the ICP sensor unplugged and all it will do is throw the CEL.

Chaffed wires on either the ICP or IPR can cause that. Since unplugging and cleaning seems to have made the difference, I'd suggest you unplug both again and pay close attention to the wiring. Is the insulation brittle or missing anywhere? Wouldn't hurt to trim back the plastic wrap and tape for 6" or so and take a good luck. Sometimes if the plug gets twisted a few times with brittle insulation the wires will short against them selves.

If ice on the IPR fixed it, it could be an IPR issue as well.

 

Is it too late to cancel that order on the AE? There are much cheaper alternatives. I hate killin' an order from Clay, but I also know he is not at ease with a customer spending more than needed.

 

Checking wires will be next step. I've never had wire related issues despite being a 2002 with lots of miles and Texas heat. Once my AutoEnginuity scanner arrives I should be able to pinpoint some trouble spots.

Thanks for all of the advice. Much appreciated.

 

I've got 2 diesels and one other Ford so I figured it was worth the money. I don't mind spending money to get a good tool but I'd take suggestions. Clay has already mailed the tool. Plus, being a fireman, I've already offered to loan the tool to others if needed.

 

Where in ND? Im in Burleson but working in Irving. May have to have you change my tires or at least check them. I can't seem to figure out how to do it for Forscan.

 

Update: Found chaffed wire on IPR pigtail and repaired that issue. Still will not start without a little squirt of starting fluid. Once it starts, it feels like it's running ok but I do feel a little hitch in the idle. Maybe one injector is not opening? I can goose it and it will return to idle but not great. Finally, after several big throttle bursts, it died again. So, I think I'll wait until AE tool arrives tomorrow to do anything else. All I managed to do today was drain coolant and refill with degreaser for the second time in an attempt to get the diesel out of the cooling system before I change the water pump and all hoses. I'm going to order another pigtail to solder in for the IPR.

The puzzling thing here is that the truck ran fine before the cups, injectors and valve cover gaskets and pigtails were changed. It dumped a lot of diesel into the coolant but I could have driven it all over the U.S. if I had a wanted to do so. Strange that I'm having issues. Glad I did the work so I wouldn't be pissed at some poor shop mechanic or stealer. All I can do is scratch my head at this point. Still, I can't really complain. This truck has served me well and was used as my HVAC service truck for 8 years. I've done nothing to the engine other than the bolt on stuff such as starters, alternators and such. It still has the original water pump at 240K! It's been a good truck. Just want it to hummmm again with that classic 7.3 sound!

 

I'm in Plano area so not far from you. AE tool arrives tomorrow. Funny enough, I have the H&S tuner and just bought the TPMS module so that I could drop my rear tires to a reasonable empty load pressure without the TPMS alerting. Didn't work. Have tried several times and it won't do anything. That was $125 well spent.

I'm sure we can link up at some point and get you fixed up.