We've all told you how to do this. Just do it the easy way and find out. At least it will tell you what side it's on. Then if you have to pull each injector till you find it so be it. Not that hard, and would of saved you money already. Good luck.

 

My apologies. I am going to proceed with what's been suggested. Valve covers come off tomorrow and going to start the engine and watch for leaks on both sides.

I certainly didn't mean to suggest that I had not been given good shortcuts and diagnostic advice by everyone here. I appreciate everyone's input. I thought someone else might find the formal OEM diagnostic procedure that I posted worth reading if they had the same issue. Having done no work on a diesel engine before, it explained a great deal and I would have liked to have it from day one.

Cheers!

 

You need to apply air to the rails to listen for leaks. Watching it run is very hard to determine an oil leak as each injector is firing hundreds of times per minute and you have a 50/50 shot of guessing which side to pull. The passenger side isn't a lot of fun. I'm fairly confident you can hear the leak if you leave it pressured up long enough if you can't get someone with better hearing to come listen it was very obvious when I did mine. As I said earlier you will want to have it warmed up when you do the test. If I am right it will be very obvious what side is leaking when you put the air to it.

 

I'll get a stethoscope and see if I can hear it that way. I may have to find a pipe fitting with a hose barb to attach the compressed air hose to it so that my hands will be free. One way or the other I'll get it diagnosed. Thanks again.

 

Looking forward to this issue being resolved and you doing the "happy dance" as the truck runs healthy.

 

Pressurized both oil plugs and heard what sounded like air coming from both heads so I removed the drivers valve cover. I shot air into the head and could see nothing nor hear anything coming from the injectors. What I did hear was a lot of gurgling noise which sounded like air being pumped into the oil pan. I pulled the first injector and saw no sign of a bad O-Ring.

Here's the disturbing part. When I pulled the covers on the initial injector cup job, everything seemed clean. No visible dirt or anything to be concerned about. This time, I see what appears to be lots of particles on all of the surfaces. I was very clean when I did the first job. I used lint free, clean towels and was careful to place the covers back on at night so nothing would drift into the heads.

This job has become a nightmare. I honestly don't know what my next move will be. Do I pull all injectors for inspection, replace all O-Rings and then cross my fingers and hope for the best upon a second re-start? Do I run the engine, if possible, with covers off to look for oil leaks? This thing is kicking my ****.

 

Where did you apply the pressure?

 

Top oil rail. Plug where crossover hose would go if installed.

 

It is possible you have non check valve fittings in your HPOP and the air was going back through the HPOP to the pan. I had the best luck isolating each side and testing that way.

 

I've not touched the HPOP since I owned it. I have to assume it's stock. Maybe the previous owner made some modification during the 30K that he drove it.

Bought the rebuilt injectors from Full Force Diesel after reading the reviews on Riff Raff. I seriously hope it's not internal. I would have bet on my own mistake causing an O-Ring issue upon install but i was pretty careful and took my time.

Where did all of that effing crud come from? That bothers me. I took care of this truck and ran only Mobil 1 5-40 Diesel Truck and SUV oil. The valve covers looked new when I took them off the first time. Very puzzling.

 

You should discount the HPOP lines and plug off if your not using them to pressurize the rail. Do it over again. Not hard, you should not here anything in the pan just what cup mitt be leaking if that's the problem.

 

That's my next step then. Will do tomorrow and see what happens. Are the HPOP connections the same as the plug? I can't find anyone locally that has the metric plugs. If they are, I'll D/C the feed lines and plug with the existing ones. Thanks!

 

Don't know. Never had to do the test but have been around when it was done. I think they are larger. Pull the fitting and take it with you.

 

I'm 99% sure they are the same and they should be #5 ORB thread that goes into the oil rails. Do you have a hydraulic shop around you they should have a fitting that will work for what you need to do.

 

You don't have to get too complicated with an air test. Pull the HPOP hose off the head and use an air compressor gun with a rubber cone shape tip on it to pressurize just one side. You can also disconnect the line from the HPOP and pressurize the hose to do the test for each side.

Just be sure to remove the oil fill cap so you don't overpressurize the low pressure side if it leaks. The crank case vent takes care of one side, the fill tube handles the other.

Bubbling sound is oil being forced out of the rails it sounds like. If you didn't apply 12 volts to the IPR, it's likely bubbling back through there. Isolating the head will eliminate that as a possibility.