How hard of a job would this be? What am I looking at for a price and time in this project. Was a grandfathers truck

 

It wouldn't just be an engine swap it's a whole powertrain swap, and because so many systems besides engine control are integrated in the newer trucks the list of items that also have to be added is long and complicated. It's a doable job with a complete donor but it's on the advanced end of the scale.

 

Anything is possible, but yes agree, this is advanced swap skills and you would need a complete donor to make sure you have everything.

By the time you did all that, you could have a good running 351W and drivetrain with far less trouble.

Why do you want the V10? Wow factor at the car show? There is a difference between early and later V10s. I'm not fully up on them, but believe the split was in '05. We had work trucks with them - F350s and Utility Vans. I'm never kept accurate records for mpg, but they drank fuel pretty quick even in non-tow or heavy duty use. We never had a problem with them that I can remember, but they also didn't seem like they had an abundance of power.

 

People have different reasons for liking the 80-86 trucks. I think a valid reason for a good portion of them is these are the last years Ford sold trucks with the simpler carbed fuel systems. The 85-86 302 efi can be a headache when it wants to be, and even the 300 sixes with the computer and a carb can be a headache but easily converted to a simpler system.

Converting one of these trucks to a later model electronically controlled drivetrain would give it more power, easier starting, etc., but the complication to the whole thing would be overwhelming to me. What would you do if it had a problem? Could you work on it and repair it?

 

The truck has a 351w in in right now that ran good when parked 10 years ago. Need exhaust manifold thats reason it was parked. How much of a job would it be to get running?

 

A whole pile less work than putting a V10 in it. Even if it means installing a rebuilt engine.

You need asses the condition of the engine.
First thing is to make sure it is not seized from sitting.

Start from there and move forward.

 

Autozone and probably others carry that exhaust manifold brand new.

But dealing with old rusty exhaust parts can be a problem. The first thing I would do is get some good rust penetrate and squirt all the bolts, the two going down to the y-pipe and the ones going to the engine.

You will then have to get under the truck with a large ratchet and a bunch of extensions and try to get the nuts loose holding the y-pipe on. Either they come loose, or the break off. You are getting a new manifold, so you don't care if they break off.

Then there are the bolts going into the engine. Get anything out of your way like sparkplug wires and such. You have two ways to go here;

1. Go ahead and try to loosen the bolts, some or all of them may break off in the engine. If this happen you will have a project drilling them out and re-tapping the holes in the engine. or

2. Go ahead and grind the heads off all the bolts. Then slide the manifold off the remnants of the bolts. The squirt more penetrate onto the threads at the engine, and then take vise grips and gently work the bolt back and forth without breaking it off.

As you can tell, it can be very easy or very difficult. But it would be worth doing I think.

 

What if i bought a motor and transmission out of a 91 ford with a 6.9 international diesel motor.

 

That is still going to be more work than doing the 351W and you still need to fit a return line to the tank. Plus beef up the front suspension.
And in 91 it would be the 7.3L not the 6.9 and the 7.3 does not come with out risks. Such as potential cylinder wall cavitation erosion.

 

I found a motor and 5 speed transmission with relatively low miles cheap and was wondering what kind of job this would be. The person would give me all of the parts for a diesel because he is switching over to a gas job.

 

Several different ways to go. Things you need to deal with;

The wiring. If you went to manual pushbutton glowplugs that would make the wiring somewhat easier. You would have to move stuff around up front to make room for a second battery.

The radiator. The diesel radiator is huge and requires a special diesel only front radiator support(the piece that holds the whole front end together). You can try to find one, the later models won't work since they have different headlights and grille areas. You will need a 86-dwn diesel radiator support. Or if he gives you the radiator, you can stare at it for awhile and see if you can modify your support to work. Can you weld?

Fuel system. The diesel had a return fuel system, so dual lines and sending units with dual lines going into the tanks. All that will have to be changed out or modified, and you can't use any sending units after 1986, they changed the way the fuel gauge works after that.

You will need all the motor mounts and stuff. You will need to check for clearance to the crossmember. All the 460 and diesel f250's had a special "dent" in their crossmembers for clearance. I know on the 460's it's for oil filter clearance. Not sure if the diesel needs it or not.

Exhaust manifold with a few broken bolts sounds a lot easier to me.

 

Well, I'll give it to ya, at least you're not choosing cheesy easy conversions. First a Triton V10, and now a diesel. It sure is the long way around not wanting to deal with exhaust troubles and whatever it takes to get the long non-running stock engine going again. I think you should go ahead and take that truck apart in as many pieces as you can then decide!

 

I think il probably just keep the 351w that it has. Anyone know of any tricks to changing the exhaust manifold and firing the old engine? I know I will need to strap the gas tank back up but il probably go through the truck and replace all the fuel lines, tank, pump, brake lines, and a lot of other stuff. The truck is pretty solid rust wise for the year. Il probably do the rockers and cab corners since it sat 10 years and they are a little tender but not bad. Any advice?

 

Franklin gave you some good tips above on getting the exhaust manifolds off.

On starting the engine, make sure it turns over/not frozen. Clean the plugs and maybe prelube like you would if it was a fresh engine by removing the distributor and spinning the oil pump with a drill motor. Put the dizzy back in and time it correctly. Pour a little gas down the carb and see if it'll crank and fire. Maybe run the fuel system off a temporary container for a little bit to make sure all is OK. You can deal with the rest of it after that, but my thoughts would be to do the mechanicals first and get it running and driving before any body work. 1 step at a time -

 

Yes, ok so first thing i will do is put a battery in it and try to get it to crank/fire. If it doesnt then il do the header. Thanks for the information. Anyone know if different headers can make a difference in power or anything? Wondering if i should just buy anyone or if i should invest a little more for a little better one.