6.4 temp gauge and limp mode
#1
6.4 temp gauge and limp mode
So, I did an oil change, cleaned up the air filter, topped my fluids and closed out a basic service on my '08 F450. Shortly after, I hooked up an 18' bike trailer. Suddenly I had the wrench (service) light coming on. Swung by AutoZone to have them pull any codes. No codes. So the "tech" tells me, it's just trying to say the engine is due for service. Since I already did one, I just need to google resetting the code. OK... haven't gotten around to it. I had a trip to do.
So, I load the trailer, and get headed out. Hit the road and make it less than 10 miles. Suddenly the [water] temp gauge pegs all the way out and kicks me into limp mode. I switch on the defrost as I pull over and do a quick look for leaks and low fluids. Everything is good. The temp drops right back down. Pull out again, make it less than 10 miles and it does it again. Pull over, the temp drops almost instantaneously back to normal, and I can roll again. Every 10 miles... but only with a loaded trailer (not empty). We've hooked up the OBDII multiple times and no codes. The only thing we can come up with is a bad sensor somewhere.
I know similar questions have been posted in the past, has anyone actually narrowed down the exact cause of this BS?
So, I load the trailer, and get headed out. Hit the road and make it less than 10 miles. Suddenly the [water] temp gauge pegs all the way out and kicks me into limp mode. I switch on the defrost as I pull over and do a quick look for leaks and low fluids. Everything is good. The temp drops right back down. Pull out again, make it less than 10 miles and it does it again. Pull over, the temp drops almost instantaneously back to normal, and I can roll again. Every 10 miles... but only with a loaded trailer (not empty). We've hooked up the OBDII multiple times and no codes. The only thing we can come up with is a bad sensor somewhere.
I know similar questions have been posted in the past, has anyone actually narrowed down the exact cause of this BS?
#3
I have heard about some DPM/DPF issues. So, I'm starting to wonder if that may actually be the problem????
#7
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#8
#9
I didn't check really closely. The first time was whatever AutoZone uses. Absolutely no codes. Then, while I was out of town for an interview, a mechanic buddy took it to his shop and ran it through all the diagnostics. I can hit him up, to find out which tool he was using.
#10
I'll assume we are talking about the 'yellow wrench', along with a message which displays "power reduced" in the odometer window, is this correct? NOT the "Check Engine" light. If so, you will need to have it connected to IDS to retrieve CMDTCs (Continuous Memory Diagnostic Trouble Codes). A generic OBD II code reader won't read those type of DTCs. By what you describe, it sounds like either P00B7 or P012F has set in continuous memory. Both of those DTCs will put your truck into power derate mode (but P012F should also throw the "Check Engine" light on too). Thermostats are a common failing component to cause P00B7 to set. The replacement is updated. Here is a good youtube video:
#11
I'll assume we are talking about the 'yellow wrench', along with a message which displays "power reduced" in the odometer window, is this correct? NOT the "Check Engine" light. If so, you will need to have it connected to IDS to retrieve CMDTCs (Continuous Memory Diagnostic Trouble Codes). A generic OBD II code reader won't read those type of DTCs. By what you describe, it sounds like either P00B7 or P012F has set in continuous memory. Both of those DTCs will put your truck into power derate mode (but P012F should also throw the "Check Engine" light on too). Thermostats are a common failing component to cause P00B7 to set. The replacement is updated. Here is a good youtube video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_OgTp9xqVtw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_OgTp9xqVtw
I've been hearing horror stories.
#12
I had a similar problem to you, the only difference is it would do it empty as well. My issue ended up being a bad temp sending unit. As M-chang68 stated You really need to IDS scan tool to isolate the issue looking at the cmdtc's and monitor the pids, but you can also use a heat temp gun and check the actual temp of the engine, the gauge in the fords is a glorified idiot light it reads the same spot form around 140 to 230 degrees. Once you hit 230 on the water temp it moves faster then you can pull over, fyi the trans temp gauge operates the same way. Anyways atleast you will be able to see if its an actual overheat issue or a sensor issue while your waiting to get to a shop
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