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  #16  
Old 09-12-2017, 09:14 AM
Walleye Hunter Walleye Hunter is offline
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Originally Posted by Tugly View Post
All fuses are out... in both boxes? Relays too? Make sure they're labeled or you take a picture before moving things around.
LOL, yep, pictures first but not all fuses out at same time, one to four at a time depending on the cluster. I have not pulled the relays out but I will when I get back out there. And I need pictures just to remember what hole one fuse came out of when there are extra holes like there are inside the cab.
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  #17  
Old 09-12-2017, 01:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colorado350 View Post
Mark,
I would have your batteries load tested, individually of course. I had the same issue when I bought my truck, NAPA tested everything (in) the truck and said everything was good! I had gut feeling, pulled both and had Sears load test them. One dropped to 4% with only 10% load, the other they said was fine but wouldn't charge past 70%. Swapped both, problem gone.
^^^ X2 ^^^ On the 99 I picked up in Arizona earlier this year. Batteries were 2 years old but were 750 CCA, which is spec. Guess the AZ heat got to them. Anyway truck could sit only for a few days and hardly turn over. We blamed everything except the batteries because the volt meter showed them to be OK. Got the rig back to Oregon and had them load tested. Passenger battery was toast as described above with drivers side battery OK. Replaced both with 850 CCA and now it can sit for over a month and fires up like new.
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  #18  
Old 09-12-2017, 02:14 PM
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With the engine cold, put your hand on the alternator. If it's warmer than the rest of the engine it may be shorting internally.

If someone is watching throw your other hand in the air and loudly beseech Henry Ford for healing powers.
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  #19  
Old 09-12-2017, 04:27 PM
DieselDenny DieselDenny is offline
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Mark,

Your output can be all that. But if you haven't load tested the batteries, they may charge and be accepting charge but may not hold the charge.

I've had batts that charge, get great volts at sit and start up but generally just go to sleep at will and nothing was wrong with the truck in the first place, they just didn't hold the charge. Age/use/overdrainage from winching or plowing. Poor grounds, etc...

Load test will tell it all.

I believe your ready age/use wise to renew and your fighting too hard to solve this issue.

Denny
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  #20  
Old 09-12-2017, 04:34 PM
DieselDenny DieselDenny is offline
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Mark,

One more thing that just jumped in my face.

I have a battery in my garage I use as a rescue device (two daughters and 1 wife, 1 has auto head lights off).

If I don't keep a trickle on it always, it goes south within a day. Sound familiar.

Denny
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  #21  
Old 09-12-2017, 05:58 PM
Walleye Hunter Walleye Hunter is offline
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You guys are missing what's going on here...when I disconnect the batteries I get an arc and smoke from whatever is sucking electricity. When disconnected I get waaayyyyyyyy over 250 mA of draw when testing from the battery to the disconnected cable. Prior to this I had about 125, which is still a bit on the high side. Something is shorting out somewhere. New batteries, old batteries have no effect on this. Today I disconnected all of the relays (not all at the same time) and still no luck. I have also completely disconnected the alternator and no luck. The only thing that I have not disconnected is the starter but there is a relay on the fender and it checks out OK. I guess I'll have to go underneath and disconnect that too just to rule it out. What else is left?
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Old 09-12-2017, 07:36 PM
DieselDenny DieselDenny is offline
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Do you have a dvm you can set to continuity??

Lowest scale, disconnect your battery cables both sides.

Find a good ground, very clean (if it's a parasite it won't ring the bell loud)

Probe your positives and see what you see, If you have a draw it will be registering.

Your negative probe should be way off the chart or therein lies your problem. (ground issue)

You've been compromised in some regard.

I just have to ask again, did you try new batteries? Did you have the old load tested?

I understand what your saying that there may be a draw, but if you do either it will strictly start pointing.


Denny
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  #23  
Old 09-12-2017, 07:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Walleye Hunter View Post
You guys are missing what's going on here...when I disconnect the batteries I get an arc and smoke from whatever is sucking electricity. When disconnected I get waaayyyyyyyy over 250 mA of draw when testing from the battery to the disconnected cable. Prior to this I had about 125, which is still a bit on the high side. Something is shorting out somewhere. New batteries, old batteries have no effect on this. Today I disconnected all of the relays (not all at the same time) and still no luck. I have also completely disconnected the alternator and no luck. The only thing that I have not disconnected is the starter but there is a relay on the fender and it checks out OK. I guess I'll have to go underneath and disconnect that too just to rule it out. What else is left?
I remember someone earlier in the thread mentioning to check the relays as well. It sounds like you eliminated anything routing through the fuse panels.

If all else fails I would enlist a helper to monitor the current draw on your meter while you thoroughly go through the cable bundles grabbing (gently, we don't want to break something trying to fix ) the wires/bundles and shifting them around. The goal is to find a short from broken insulation. If this is the case one should be able to "toggle" the short with movement. I would check all other ideas first. Eliminate as much from the equation as possible without mixing up relays and fuses.

The current is definitely going somewhere!

EDIT: Some items that come to mind: alternator (never heard of this though), glow plug relay, starter... EDIT2: PCM?
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  #24  
Old 09-12-2017, 07:53 PM
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Let me throw in some other things...

AIH, GP and/or their solenoids. Make sure the INPUT wires aren't mixed up with the OUPUT side, LOL.

GP's could be on constantly. AIH if not assembled in the correct order (ie insulator) could short.

When my starter died, I had been tracing a parasitic draw as well. Tried all kinds of things, then one day my starter wouldn't....replaced it and the parasitic draw was gone, too.

I had recently had an alternator problem that likely hurt the batteries and killed the starter or vice-versa. These things are often related or not too far behind each other.

When I tested the starter off the truck, it wouldn't budge.
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  #25  
Old 09-12-2017, 07:54 PM
Walleye Hunter Walleye Hunter is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselDenny View Post
Do you have a dvm you can set to continuity??

Lowest scale, disconnect your battery cables both sides.

Find a good ground, very clean (if it's a parasite it won't ring the bell loud)

Probe your positives and see what you see, If you have a draw it will be registering.

Your negative probe should be way off the chart or therein lies your problem. (ground issue)

You've been compromised in some regard.

I just have to ask again, did you try new batteries? Did you have the old load tested?

I understand what your saying that there may be a draw, but if you do either it will strictly start pointing.


Denny
No, have not load tested or installed new as of yet. I have a drain on the batteries, that will not change with new batteries.
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  #26  
Old 09-12-2017, 07:59 PM
Walleye Hunter Walleye Hunter is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ExPACamper View Post
Let me throw in some other things...

AIH, GP and/or their solenoids. Make sure the INPUT wires aren't mixed up with the OUPUT side, LOL.

GP's could be on constantly. AIH if not assembled in the correct order (ie insulator) could short.

When my starter died, I had been tracing a parasitic draw as well. Tried all kinds of things, then one day my starter wouldn't....replaced it and the parasitic draw was gone, too.

I had recently had an alternator problem that likely hurt the batteries and killed the starter or vice-versa. These things are often related or not too far behind each other.

When I tested the starter off the truck, it wouldn't budge.
No IAH on the E99 and check on the other stuff except for the starter itself. The GPR I actually disconnected the power side. Normally electricity is logic to me but this one has me puzzled. I am under the impression that the PCM, the IDM and a GEM (if it has one) should all be fused and pulling the fuse should identify the bad guy. I also disconnected the plow relay.
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  #27  
Old 09-12-2017, 08:13 PM
DieselDenny DieselDenny is offline
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Got you on the load test and the new battery gig.

Can you do the test I inferred? Kinda gives insight on which direction to go. But which side?

That will tell you if the casualty is left flap or right or none of the above. This does run downstream. I'd also say to disconnect your starter hot wire to eliminate the ignition side.

You left your dome light on didn't you :')

Denny
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  #28  
Old 09-13-2017, 07:28 AM
Walleye Hunter Walleye Hunter is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselDenny View Post
Got you on the load test and the new battery gig.

Can you do the test I inferred? Kinda gives insight on which direction to go. But which side?

That will tell you if the casualty is left flap or right or none of the above. This does run downstream. I'd also say to disconnect your starter hot wire to eliminate the ignition side.

You left your dome light on didn't you :')

Denny
Do you mean a load test? I don't have a load tester, can I do something like leave the headlights on for a minute and check them?
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  #29  
Old 09-13-2017, 07:56 AM
pirschwagon pirschwagon is offline
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One of the processes that is essential in testing for a Parasitic Draw is to "wait up to and hour for the Modules Sleep". Without this step, you can't identify if the draw is being a faulty transistor in a Modules.

Once everything is setup, set your meter to record the lowest voltage. Then check it in an hour to see the lowest voltage. If it hasn't dropped to 500mA or below, begin with removing NON Module Fuses FIRST. I.E. GEM.

If you're leaving the Door open to remove fuses, the Modules do not "Sleep". They "Wake" in anticipation of Operation So, you will have to disconnect that harness for the door.

The easiest way is to use a Fuse-Loop Adapter and a Low-Amp Clamp on each Fused Circuit to identify draw.
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  #30  
Old 09-13-2017, 08:41 AM
Walleye Hunter Walleye Hunter is offline
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The door harness is a good point, any tips on where to do that? It would save me a little time if I know exactly where to go. My meter only goes as high as 250 mA so I can't read anything above that. It used to just suck 125 mA until this week. Those clamp on amp readers are a tad out of my price range right now.

Thanks for the help.
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