Not sure what your asking for KULTULZ?

No its not a canada truck i live in texas its been in texas all its life.

Here is the link to the distrubutor I purchased. Manifacotr part number is PPDST2899A

 

Don't sweat it, you can run either ported or manifold vacuum source. It's not that big a deal. Just take the time to set it up correctly. The initial or idle timing is just part of it. Here's a really good overview of what you're trying to achieve.

http://www.gofastforless.com/ignition/advance.htm

 

Don't feel like the LONE RANGER as most don't...

If you still have the take-out distributor, there are ID Nos on it (similar to carb tag). Can you post them?

Also, is there a decal on the left rocker cover with a bunch of info on it?

 

The distributor I removed has 12127 on it and is a motorcraft
No sticker on the vavle cover.
Just was messing with the truck got it idling good set the timing with vacuum unplugged and pluggged. When i plug the vacuum back up to the distributor the idle goes up alot(no RPM gauge) the truck idles good and has good throttle response but sputters and no power when I try to drive it.

 

12127 is the Ford part # for a distributor, they all say that. Need the prefix and the rest of it to decode.

What does the mechanical advance top out at on the damper at say 3000 RPM or so? That's the number you're interested in. For test purposes adjust the distributor to 36° BTDC at 3000 RPM, make sure it's done advancing all the way. Remember, vacuum advance disconnected and plugged. If the damper is horked, the timing marks won't be accurate. Common problem.

When hooked up to manifold vacuum the idle RPM is going to go up quite a bit, because the ignition advance just got goosed another 20°, back off on the idle RPM screw to 550-650 etc. May be difficult to get a steady idle. That's why ported vacuum was invented in the first place. You'll see a lot of ignition advance at idle, maybe 30° to 35° on the damper. This is no problem as there is no load on the engine at idle. Under load the vacuum advance goes bye-bye till the engine load levels back off at steady speeds and manifold comes back up. Focus on getting the mechanical setup right first. Leave the vacuum advance disconnected and plugged while setting up the distributor, take your test drives etc. When satisfied that it's running well re-connect the vacuum can and dial the vacuum advance in.

 

There should be four stamped characters before and two after the 12127.

That's why we need the original Dist I.D. No. and hopefully the Solenoid I.D. No. on the rocker cover. There has to be something that interferes with the constant manifold vacuum supply and it seems to have something to do with that solenoid and throttle kicker. The distributor may have a unique curve and possibly vacuum diaphragm as you experienced the results of full manifold vacuum advance.

 

I dont see any otehr numbers.

I got a new issue so this one is on the back burner. Zero compression on number #2
It started running really ruff so I did a compression test all were about 140-150 but #2 big fat ZERO

Pulled the valve cover rockers move up and down i can see piston going up and down, the vavle springs look good rockers are not loose and look like they are even.

What next?
Remove head?

 

Given that the vacuum advance was toast I would put money on a burnt exhaust valve.

Hook shop air to that cylinder through the spark plug hole in number 2 to pin it down. Make sure engine is TDC compression on Cyl 2

Hissing in the Carb/intake, bad intake valve.
Hissing in the crank case (can be heard though oil fill. Broken rings.
Hissing in the exhaust burnt exhaust valve.

 

Is this the decal on the valve cover?

 

No...something more like what is shown below.

Certain years had the vacuum schematic separate from that decal, maybe on the rocker cover(s), hood or core support.

Are those the original rocker covers? The Calib Code ain't jiving...

I have been trying to figure this arrangement out. Might have to buy a shop manual to satisfy my curiosity. The advance diaphragm being signaled from man vacuum has me confused...

It seems like an old LOAD-O-MATIC System-

 

The Load O Matic was fed from the Carb and used a mix of venturi vacuum and manifold vacuum. The Dist had no centrifugal advance.

This is just a straight manifold vacuum set up. There were calibrations that did this. But they were few and far between.

The truck may not be from Canada but who knows what has been done to the truck in the last 40 years.

 

...now that was moronic...

He replaced the distributor...

The original distributor was most likely exchanged, so there went the I.D. No. (and explains the missing replacing component ID
No.) to prevent any chance (other than Carb I.D. No.) of getting into the Calibration Parts List (the hard way) for the vehicle.

 

Unless you are in a state that has harsh emission laws, I would find another model 2150 with a spark port and use it.

The old argument of manifold/ported vacuum source has no bearing here as the signal is obviously modulated in some fashion (rocker cover mounted solenoid and VOTM), and I seriously doubt service replacement parts are still available.

There is a ported vacuum signal @ idle as you are instructed to remove that source when setting timing. Again, no need for argument. The spark port was not provided on this particular calibration carb to prevent emission calibration tampering.

This is some special setup that I have never come across personally (other than seventies GM).

I am thinking... ... that this is one of those applications that has a stepped up idle while running and unless the throttle solenoid circuit works properly will causing dieseling at shut-off.

DO NOT SH!AT-CAN the original carb as you may need it sometime in the future.

 

Thanks for the info. I didnt find any other stickers.
Most likely not oringal motor and trans in truck. Heads have smog hole on back and were plugged one with a fuel pump delete cover and the other was just cripped off. Trans has grease pencil in yellow saying 72 my truck is 78.

Trying to put a edelbrock performer and holley 4 barrel on it but gotta get the funds.
Truck bent a vavle and i pulled motor and trans. Got a roller 302 from a 92 tbird to replace it. Gather parts and cleaning up everything to go back in.

 

THANX! for getting back...

Good Luck on the upgrade...