Borrowed my dad's 03 Expy with 181k miles. This is a spare truck so it was sitting for 3-4 months. Started right up with a jump per dad and was running fine for the 4 days I had it and no check engine light.

While driving at slow speed engine just shut off then would crank but wouldn't start. Had one code P0457 (Evap - gas cap) that I figured was new from cranking the engine. Wouldn't start with a jump.

Mechanic noted no RPM on start and replaced crankshaft position sensor, didn't help. He said he tested the wiring, fuses and fuel system as well and wanted to try replacing the PCM for more than the car is worth to us. I said no thanks and its sitting at my house now.

Today I checked the following:
Fuel - Fuel pump turns on with ignition, fuel sprays when opening Schrader valve. Have not tried starter fluid to intake.

Electrical - All fuses in passenger kick panel have continuity, PCM getting power, fuel relay working.

Start - No RPM via scanner still, security light turns off when key in, odometer displays and cluster lights up normally. No codes now.

Still cranks but doesn't start. Now car wont crank due to low battery.

Mechanic focused on the no RPM during start and they did not work up the evap code. Would a crank/no start issue be related to evap system?

Any other suggestions? I have a cheap, refurb, pre-programmed PCM with keys on the way, but I want to be sure there isn't something else wrong before installing.

Thanks!

 

No, unless the fuel tank was under a significant vacuum.

Should have, it would be useful to know if you have an ignition issue or a fuel issue. As of right now, you don't know.

 

Thanks, I'll grab some starter fluid tomorrow and give it a try. Going to grab an ignition coil and spark plug just in case.

 

Save your money, a bad coil or spark plug would cause the engine to misfire but it would still start. Even though fuel sprayed doesn't mean you have sufficient fuel pressure to run the engine. The starter fluid will answer the fuel question for you. Have you tried removing a coil and spark plug, reconnect it out of the engine, then cranking the engine to see if the plug fires. If it doesn't and assuming you have compression the ECM is probably the issue.

 

Roller coaster of a day:

No spark with coil out and spare spark plug (old plug from a Nissan Altima laying around). Ok so must be PCM.

Sprayed starter fluid and started up after a few cranks. Car would stay on if I kept the RPM over 3-4k (with RPM displayed on the dash so the PCM was getting signal). Seemed to run fine with revs.

Ok so not PCM and must be fuel. After cursing at my mechanic, I ran to Auto Zone while they were closing to grab a fuel filter and borrow a fuel pressure tester (didn't have to research). Switched the fuel filter and the truck ran 3-4 minutes at idle like a dream. More cursing at my mechanic.

Then car shut off at idle and threw P0320! Back to PCM/Crank position sensor/wiring.

While digging around testing for spark I found some critter had made nests all over the engine bay using insulation from the hood.

Could bad, chewed up wiring from crankshaft position sensor be sending intermittent signal to the PCM causing all my issues? If so, what pins to I have to test on the PCM side? Or is it really the PCM?

 

Yes and the only solution is to trace the wires and look for chew spots.

 

If you continue to have idle issues check the IAC and vacuum lines.
You may still have an intermittent fuel pump relay or pump issue instead of a fuel filter issue.
You can get an adequate fuel pressure tester at Harbor Freight, 62623, for under $20.
The crankshaft position sensor wiring is on PCM connector 175e pins 30 DB (+) and 41 GY (-).
Pins 3,4,5,6,7,8,14 & 15 should have 12v coming in from the fuel injectors when in Start or Run.
Pins 1,11,12,23,24,34,35 & 46 should have 12v coming in from the COPs when in Start or Run.

 

THANK YOU!!!!! Just saved me a ton of research!

To clarify, I am still at crank no start without starter fluid. I hooked up an inline spark tester and still no spark checking 2 coils... which doesn't make sense since I can start the car with starter fluid. I guess I may have a spark AND fuel issue or electrical gremlins or I'm too dense to test for spark correctly.

I unplugged the harness from the crankshaft sensor and where it connects to the AC compressor and pulled it up and it looked fine and as far back as I could see to the firewall.

I have a fuel pressure testing kit on loan from Auto Zone, didn't have time to test today (we are also moving).

The ECU is coming tomorrow, if I can test it without voiding my return policy that will be my next step, then fuel pressure then pin outs.

If I still can't find the issue my next post will be in the classifieds. With my sub par mechanic's skills I can't justify throwing more money (and really time) at a car we don't want.

I appreciate all the help thus far, this forum rocks

 

I would first be sure the fuel pressure is holding.
You may need to check out the fuel pump relay & pump.
You will need a VOM to test for 12v getting to the Inertia Switch.
The fuel pump relay outputs 12v to the Inertia Switch, then on to the pump.
The fuel pump relay is soldered on the bottom of the fuse panel so not easily replaced.
You can get a free VOM with a coupon if you buy the fuel pressure tester at Harbor Freight.
Since it runs with starter fluid the PCM is probably ok.
Next I would check the crankshaft sensor wires for continuity from the sensor connector to the PCM connector.
If needed you could splice two wires (18 AWG) in to get the sensor connected again.
When checking the crankshaft sensor wires in PCM connector 175e also use the voltmeter to check for 12v on all the COP and fuel injector input pins with the ignition switch in Run.
My guess is they are fine - the engine runs.
I just got back from shopping and got a P0457 for the first time.
My aftermarket locking gas cap was not tightened down properly.
Our 2003 Exped has 171k and we love it.