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302 engine issues.

  #241  
Old 01-11-2019, 10:16 PM
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Could stand to be a little richer but look like the mixture's dead on.
 
  #242  
Old 01-11-2019, 10:21 PM
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Are you using the stock heat range plug? That's generally what you want to start with as a baseline. The ground strap should have a color transition about halfway up when the heatrange is correct. The idea is that the plug gets just hot enough to be self cleaning, but no more.

The base ring is jetting. Can't really use porcelain color to determine jetting. For wide open throttle AFR need to look deep inside the plug, where it transitions to the outer shell. There will be a fire ring or color ring there. I agree that looks pretty good!
 
  #243  
Old 01-12-2019, 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Tedster9 View Post
Are you using the stock heat range plug? That's generally what you want to start with as a baseline. The ground strap should have a color transition about halfway up when the heatrange is correct. The idea is that the plug gets just hot enough to be self cleaning, but no more.

The base ring is jetting. Can't really use porcelain color to determine jetting. For wide open throttle AFR need to look deep inside the plug, where it transitions to the outer shell. There will be a fire ring or color ring there. I agree that looks pretty good!
I have been using Autolite 26 which is one heat range hotter than stock. I need to get my exhaust welded instead of held together with clamps and band straps. I also am considering going to manual choke from my electric choke, I am not happy with how long it stays on before it idles down, I have tried and tried and can not get that happy spot so I'm done with it.
 
  #244  
Old 01-12-2019, 04:34 PM
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Right, that's what I was wondering, it looks like a hotter plug. I would use a stock heat range plug before making any AFR or jetting changes. Pretty much have to do a throttle chop too, any idle time is going to skew things looking rich. The worst that can happen with a colder plug is fouling, but too hot a plug can cause predetonation due to hot spots, so it's best to start out on the cold side and work hotter if necessary. So, general rule in tuning is the heat range of a spark plug should not be changed to try and compensate for an overly rich (or lean) condition. Get the carburetor dialed in correctly first, with the stock heat range plugs, and then look carefully at the heat range. It is tricky to tune with modern gasoline too, since there is hardly any "color".
 
  #245  
Old 01-12-2019, 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Tedster9 View Post
Right, that's what I was wondering, it looks like a hotter plug. I would use a stock heat range plug before making any AFR or jetting changes. Pretty much have to do a throttle chop too, any idle time is going to skew things looking rich. The worst that can happen with a colder plug is fouling, but too hot a plug can cause predetonation due to hot spots, so it's best to start out on the cold side and work hotter if necessary. So, general rule in tuning is the heat range of a spark plug should not be changed to compensate for an overly rich (or lean) condition. Get the carburetor dialed in correctly with the stock plugs, and then look carefully at the heat range. It is tricky with modern gas, since there is hardly and "color".
I'll do that, I am going to try Motorcraft plugs next.
 
  #246  
Old Yesterday, 07:58 PM
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I was having another tuning session with the truck and Holley carburetor tonight and this is the results. My electric choke has plagued me with it staying on in my opinion too long and now since I added a fuel regulator my truck won't start with one hard push of the gas pedal, now I have to pump and feather the gas peddle to keep it running. My experiment was to adjust the choke so that it was completely closed at initial startup instead of a slight gap but it did not change the hard startup I'm experiencing.
 
  #247  
Old Yesterday, 08:54 PM
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Keep in mind carbed engines always have at least a little bit of a routine or technique required prior to start when cold.

Here's what I think is happening: Remember when those spark plug pics earlier in the thread you posted were black as coal? I bet it started really easy then right? Choke, no choke, who cares, because, no cold weather technique is required when acre-feet of raw gas is being dumped down the intake!

When the carb gets setup and tuned right though, you'll have to pump more than used to, relying on the accelerator pump shot to deliver at least some raw fuel. The choke plate needs to be closed, or nearly so. The purpose of the choke is actually to deliver more fuel, not really "less air" as commonly thought of. It increases the velocity of the air through the Venturi and "pulls" extra fuel out of the well. When I got the 2100 dialed in nice on the old beast the engine did seem a bit more cold blooded, it just takes more pumps and full choke and starts right up.
 
  #248  
Old Yesterday, 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Tedster9 View Post
Keep in mind carbed engines always have at least a little bit of a routine or technique required prior to start when cold.

Here's what I think is happening: Remember when those spark plug pics earlier in the thread you posted were black as coal? I bet it started really easy then right? Choke, no choke, who cares, because, no cold weather technique is required when acre-feet of raw gas is being dumped down the intake!

When the carb gets setup and tuned right though, you'll have to pump more than used to, relying on the accelerator pump shot to deliver at least some raw fuel. The choke plate needs to be closed, or nearly so. The purpose of the choke is actually to deliver more fuel, not really "less air" as commonly thought of. It increases the velocity of the air through the Venturi and "pulls" extra fuel out of the well. When I got the 2100 dialed in nice on the old beast the engine did seem a bit more cold blooded, it just takes more pumps and full choke and starts right up.
Tedster9, that all makes sense except for the fact that the hard starts started after adding my Holley fuel regulator. Some additional information, after my choke experiment I cracked open the sight plug to check my float level on my primary fuel bowl and fuel poured out of the sight hole so I closed it and removed my needle valve and to my surprise I found some debris clogging the needle. I cleaned it and reinstalled, hopefully this will make a big difference.
 
  #249  
Old Yesterday, 11:08 PM
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When it's tuned right you shouldn't need more fuel to start it. Been my experience black sooty plugs make it harder to start cause they're harder to generate sparks with. You shouldn't have to pump the pedal more than 2-3 times to get it to light off, even without a choke. I don't run a choke at all on my carbed engines and it only takes 2-3 pump shots to get em started. I even had one 5.0 that would start and idle without a choke at 25*F without any pump shots. That one was an Explorer motor topped with a Ford A321 intake and 570 Holley. A good hot ignition and a cam that generates lots of vacuum at idle does wonders.
 
  #250  
Old Today, 01:15 AM
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Originally Posted by baddad457 View Post
Been my experience black sooty plugs make it harder to start cause they're harder to generate sparks with.
Right, but you know how they get black and sooty in the first place? Running pig rich.

You shouldn't have to pump the pedal more than 2-3 times to get it to light off, even without a choke. I don't run a choke at all on my carbed engines and it only takes 2-3 pump shots to get em started. I even had one 5.0 that would start and idle without a choke at 25*F without any pump shots.
Right, but if no choke is required below freezing it's tuned way on the rich side of things. Would it be safe to say you're a fan of, shall we say "spirited" performance engines & driving? Hm? Nod your head "yes"...


 
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