By the way, a catch can doesn't stop carbon buildup on your valves. Since there is no gas cleaning the backs of the valves, they are going to get buildup faster than the new dual injection engines. I've seen where using ethanol fuel can make the buildup worse, so I have been using 100 percent gas, which in the long run is much better. A bottle of chevron Techron every now and then is advantageous as well.

 

This was specific to the intercooler building up moisture which led to misfire on acceleration.

 

Mine sits for a week or two, but when I do drive it, or when I travel, I let my turbo's whine out. (an Italian tune) I agree these Eco boost motors need to be pushed every now & then. Before I got my F150, I was lucky enough to meet two engineers at the Ohio Assembly Plant in Avon Lake. Both engineer's that were part of the 2.7EB team kept telling me that these engines are Design & Engineered very strong & need to be worked. If you have rough idle, your EB is letting you know it needs to be Exercised
.

 

I drive it hard quite a bit. I highly doubt that is my issue.

Will be swapping plugs tomorrow - haven’t had a chance to do it on a cold motor as of yet.

 

Got the plugs swapped.

All of them have burned ceramic - one of them had cracked ceramic.

 

Broke one of the red tabs on one of the plugs getting the connector off [screwdriver I was using to press the gray tab slipped]. Beyond that - it was a b*tch to get the coils off the plugs. Put di-electric grease on the plugs and boots and anti-seize on the plugs themselves. The next time I have to do plugs it should be *much* easier.

Haven't driven the truck just yet - about to.

 

Thank God it's not a Ram Hemi - 16 plugs in that bugger and only a handful are easy to get out...

 

That looks like leakage. I strongly suspect (and this is NOT a shot) that the cracked one was done in removing it. I bet it runs a lot better now.

 

I don’t think I cracked it in removal. I used a universal joint behind the plug socket to make sure I didn’t apply any lateral force. Not saying it’s impossible though.

 

So I was sitting here waiting on somebody and idling for a while. I had the A/C on and I found that when the A/C kicked on that the idle actually smoothed out. With the compressor off it runs rough.

When looking at the charting from OBD2 - when the A/C compressor is running the cylinder timing is at 0 Degrees and the engine runs extremely smoothly. When the compressor kicks off timing goes to -15 degrees and the idle is rough.

I turned off the A/C and the idle stays rough and does not smooth out and timing stays at -15 to -12 degrees.

Here's a chart - up until you see the hills/valleys it was idling rough. When you see a hill in the green [timing] up to 0 degrees it runs smoothly.

 

I wonder if that tuning logic can be changed through FORscan?

 

Not entirely sure - it could just be that with the compressor running the engine is under a little bit of a load so the idle smooths out. Putting it in gear brings timing to around -6 degrees and the idle is smoother but still a tad rough.

 

Back up....did the spark plugs fix this issue?

 

Did new plugs fix the rough idle?

 

I would consider a quality fuel system cleaner and a new set of spark plugs. Even though you have fairly low mileage it's not unusual at all to have a fouled plug.