To trade in or to repair?
#31
It helps, but it doesn't prevent soot from building up. I think the biggest factor is usage. Short stops, stop and go driving, excessive idling etc. is the biggest contributor to soot build up. Being in California where there is an extremely high vehicle population, not to mention the eternal and inevitable traffic congestion that Californians have to contend with on a day to day basis likely doesn't help.
#33
It helps, but it doesn't prevent soot from building up. I think the biggest factor is usage. Short stops, stop and go driving, excessive idling etc. is the biggest contributor to soot build up. Being in California where there is an extremely high vehicle population, not to mention the eternal and inevitable traffic congestion that Californians have to contend with on a day to day basis likely doesn't help.
#35
Wow. First thing you need to do is breath and slow down. You've got some trusted posters helping you out. They'll steer you the right direction.
I haven't read the whole thread in detail, but I did not see where you verified the EGR was deleted. DO THAT FIRST because all your symptoms could be a ruptured EGR cooler--especially if that's soot in the degas bottle.
So, don't do anything else until you do the following.
1) Verify EGR is indeed deleted. Easy enough with a visual observation.
2) Verify good coolant flow. I don't know how to do this other than opening a hose up and getting a feel for the flow around 2000 rpm. Otherwise, pull the water pump and inspect the impellers and housing.
3) Never fill the degas bottle above the Min line. If I can touch the coolant with a finger, I've got too much coolant in my degas bottle.
4) Get some gauges and get some real data. $30 and you can have Torque pro read every gauge you have.
IF you do have an EGR cooler...I'd get rid of it and change your oil cooler. Your EGR rupture because the oil cooler is plugged. If you don't have an EGR cooler, then you likely have a blown HG.
Do the following
A) Get oil and coolant temps cold and follow them while you drive.
B) Put a pressure gauge on your degas bottle. Run it into the cab, or on the windshield where you can see it.
C) Go out for a drive. Pressure should stay below 16psi (+/-). If it gets into the 20s, you have a problem.
D) Release the pressure from your degas bottle while hot.
E) Continue driving. The pressure should not climb more than a couple degrees after you relieve the pressure. If it does, you have a problem.
F) This part is more interpretive and most will debate about this. If the pressure climbs fast, it's head gaskets. If the pressure climbs slower, its a ruptured EGR cooler.
I don't know if a plugged Oil cooler would cause you to puke coolant, but I could believe it. Getting some real data will tell if your oil cooler is plugged.
Most on this forum feel over half the time head gasket jobs are unnecessary and it was only an EGR cooler issue. If I ever have to put head gaskets on mine, the heads will be O-Ringed. I would stud and might also go with the Fel-Pro head gaskets. I recall them being used by a few users and it seems to have worked out well.
I haven't read the whole thread in detail, but I did not see where you verified the EGR was deleted. DO THAT FIRST because all your symptoms could be a ruptured EGR cooler--especially if that's soot in the degas bottle.
So, don't do anything else until you do the following.
1) Verify EGR is indeed deleted. Easy enough with a visual observation.
2) Verify good coolant flow. I don't know how to do this other than opening a hose up and getting a feel for the flow around 2000 rpm. Otherwise, pull the water pump and inspect the impellers and housing.
3) Never fill the degas bottle above the Min line. If I can touch the coolant with a finger, I've got too much coolant in my degas bottle.
4) Get some gauges and get some real data. $30 and you can have Torque pro read every gauge you have.
IF you do have an EGR cooler...I'd get rid of it and change your oil cooler. Your EGR rupture because the oil cooler is plugged. If you don't have an EGR cooler, then you likely have a blown HG.
Do the following
A) Get oil and coolant temps cold and follow them while you drive.
B) Put a pressure gauge on your degas bottle. Run it into the cab, or on the windshield where you can see it.
C) Go out for a drive. Pressure should stay below 16psi (+/-). If it gets into the 20s, you have a problem.
D) Release the pressure from your degas bottle while hot.
E) Continue driving. The pressure should not climb more than a couple degrees after you relieve the pressure. If it does, you have a problem.
F) This part is more interpretive and most will debate about this. If the pressure climbs fast, it's head gaskets. If the pressure climbs slower, its a ruptured EGR cooler.
I don't know if a plugged Oil cooler would cause you to puke coolant, but I could believe it. Getting some real data will tell if your oil cooler is plugged.
Most on this forum feel over half the time head gasket jobs are unnecessary and it was only an EGR cooler issue. If I ever have to put head gaskets on mine, the heads will be O-Ringed. I would stud and might also go with the Fel-Pro head gaskets. I recall them being used by a few users and it seems to have worked out well.
#36
#37
Wow. First thing you need to do is breath and slow down. You've got some trusted posters helping you out. They'll steer you the right direction.
I haven't read the whole thread in detail, but I did not see where you verified the EGR was deleted. DO THAT FIRST because all your symptoms could be a ruptured EGR cooler--especially if that's soot in the degas bottle.
So, don't do anything else until you do the following.
1) Verify EGR is indeed deleted. Easy enough with a visual observation.
2) Verify good coolant flow. I don't know how to do this other than opening a hose up and getting a feel for the flow around 2000 rpm. Otherwise, pull the water pump and inspect the impellers and housing.
3) Never fill the degas bottle above the Min line. If I can touch the coolant with a finger, I've got too much coolant in my degas bottle.
4) Get some gauges and get some real data. $30 and you can have Torque pro read every gauge you have.
IF you do have an EGR cooler...I'd get rid of it and change your oil cooler. Your EGR rupture because the oil cooler is plugged. If you don't have an EGR cooler, then you likely have a blown HG.
Do the following
A) Get oil and coolant temps cold and follow them while you drive.
B) Put a pressure gauge on your degas bottle. Run it into the cab, or on the windshield where you can see it.
C) Go out for a drive. Pressure should stay below 16psi (+/-). If it gets into the 20s, you have a problem.
D) Release the pressure from your degas bottle while hot.
E) Continue driving. The pressure should not climb more than a couple degrees after you relieve the pressure. If it does, you have a problem.
F) This part is more interpretive and most will debate about this. If the pressure climbs fast, it's head gaskets. If the pressure climbs slower, its a ruptured EGR cooler.
I don't know if a plugged Oil cooler would cause you to puke coolant, but I could believe it. Getting some real data will tell if your oil cooler is plugged.
Most on this forum feel over half the time head gasket jobs are unnecessary and it was only an EGR cooler issue. If I ever have to put head gaskets on mine, the heads will be O-Ringed. I would stud and might also go with the Fel-Pro head gaskets. I recall them being used by a few users and it seems to have worked out well.
I haven't read the whole thread in detail, but I did not see where you verified the EGR was deleted. DO THAT FIRST because all your symptoms could be a ruptured EGR cooler--especially if that's soot in the degas bottle.
So, don't do anything else until you do the following.
1) Verify EGR is indeed deleted. Easy enough with a visual observation.
2) Verify good coolant flow. I don't know how to do this other than opening a hose up and getting a feel for the flow around 2000 rpm. Otherwise, pull the water pump and inspect the impellers and housing.
3) Never fill the degas bottle above the Min line. If I can touch the coolant with a finger, I've got too much coolant in my degas bottle.
4) Get some gauges and get some real data. $30 and you can have Torque pro read every gauge you have.
IF you do have an EGR cooler...I'd get rid of it and change your oil cooler. Your EGR rupture because the oil cooler is plugged. If you don't have an EGR cooler, then you likely have a blown HG.
Do the following
A) Get oil and coolant temps cold and follow them while you drive.
B) Put a pressure gauge on your degas bottle. Run it into the cab, or on the windshield where you can see it.
C) Go out for a drive. Pressure should stay below 16psi (+/-). If it gets into the 20s, you have a problem.
D) Release the pressure from your degas bottle while hot.
E) Continue driving. The pressure should not climb more than a couple degrees after you relieve the pressure. If it does, you have a problem.
F) This part is more interpretive and most will debate about this. If the pressure climbs fast, it's head gaskets. If the pressure climbs slower, its a ruptured EGR cooler.
I don't know if a plugged Oil cooler would cause you to puke coolant, but I could believe it. Getting some real data will tell if your oil cooler is plugged.
Most on this forum feel over half the time head gasket jobs are unnecessary and it was only an EGR cooler issue. If I ever have to put head gaskets on mine, the heads will be O-Ringed. I would stud and might also go with the Fel-Pro head gaskets. I recall them being used by a few users and it seems to have worked out well.
#38
Wow. First thing you need to do is breath and slow down. You've got some trusted posters helping you out. They'll steer you the right direction.
I haven't read the whole thread in detail, but I did not see where you verified the EGR was deleted. DO THAT FIRST because all your symptoms could be a ruptured EGR cooler--especially if that's soot in the degas bottle.
So, don't do anything else until you do the following.
1) Verify EGR is indeed deleted. Easy enough with a visual observation.
2) Verify good coolant flow. I don't know how to do this other than opening a hose up and getting a feel for the flow around 2000 rpm. Otherwise, pull the water pump and inspect the impellers and housing.
3) Never fill the degas bottle above the Min line. If I can touch the coolant with a finger, I've got too much coolant in my degas bottle.
4) Get some gauges and get some real data. $30 and you can have Torque pro read every gauge you have.
IF you do have an EGR cooler...I'd get rid of it and change your oil cooler. Your EGR rupture because the oil cooler is plugged. If you don't have an EGR cooler, then you likely have a blown HG.
Do the following
A) Get oil and coolant temps cold and follow them while you drive.
B) Put a pressure gauge on your degas bottle. Run it into the cab, or on the windshield where you can see it.
C) Go out for a drive. Pressure should stay below 16psi (+/-). If it gets into the 20s, you have a problem.
D) Release the pressure from your degas bottle while hot.
E) Continue driving. The pressure should not climb more than a couple degrees after you relieve the pressure. If it does, you have a problem.
F) This part is more interpretive and most will debate about this. If the pressure climbs fast, it's head gaskets. If the pressure climbs slower, its a ruptured EGR cooler.
I don't know if a plugged Oil cooler would cause you to puke coolant, but I could believe it. Getting some real data will tell if your oil cooler is plugged.
Most on this forum feel over half the time head gasket jobs are unnecessary and it was only an EGR cooler issue. If I ever have to put head gaskets on mine, the heads will be O-Ringed. I would stud and might also go with the Fel-Pro head gaskets. I recall them being used by a few users and it seems to have worked out well.
I haven't read the whole thread in detail, but I did not see where you verified the EGR was deleted. DO THAT FIRST because all your symptoms could be a ruptured EGR cooler--especially if that's soot in the degas bottle.
So, don't do anything else until you do the following.
1) Verify EGR is indeed deleted. Easy enough with a visual observation.
2) Verify good coolant flow. I don't know how to do this other than opening a hose up and getting a feel for the flow around 2000 rpm. Otherwise, pull the water pump and inspect the impellers and housing.
3) Never fill the degas bottle above the Min line. If I can touch the coolant with a finger, I've got too much coolant in my degas bottle.
4) Get some gauges and get some real data. $30 and you can have Torque pro read every gauge you have.
IF you do have an EGR cooler...I'd get rid of it and change your oil cooler. Your EGR rupture because the oil cooler is plugged. If you don't have an EGR cooler, then you likely have a blown HG.
Do the following
A) Get oil and coolant temps cold and follow them while you drive.
B) Put a pressure gauge on your degas bottle. Run it into the cab, or on the windshield where you can see it.
C) Go out for a drive. Pressure should stay below 16psi (+/-). If it gets into the 20s, you have a problem.
D) Release the pressure from your degas bottle while hot.
E) Continue driving. The pressure should not climb more than a couple degrees after you relieve the pressure. If it does, you have a problem.
F) This part is more interpretive and most will debate about this. If the pressure climbs fast, it's head gaskets. If the pressure climbs slower, its a ruptured EGR cooler.
I don't know if a plugged Oil cooler would cause you to puke coolant, but I could believe it. Getting some real data will tell if your oil cooler is plugged.
Most on this forum feel over half the time head gasket jobs are unnecessary and it was only an EGR cooler issue. If I ever have to put head gaskets on mine, the heads will be O-Ringed. I would stud and might also go with the Fel-Pro head gaskets. I recall them being used by a few users and it seems to have worked out well.
#39
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