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CAM sensor ?? Or something worse? -SOLVED

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  #31  
Old 09-01-2017, 11:07 PM
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Originally Posted by carguy3j View Post
But the pcm has power even when it won't restart, because the chip/switch has power and is lit up. If the PCM did not have power, the chip and switcher LED would be dead.



I am being stubborn and resisting the call to pull the chip, because it is not as easy for me, as some other people.
I have the S&B intake, which is a pain to remove and re-install, for access to the PCM bolt. Additionally, my plastic PCM case is only minimally trimmed, such that the chip can not be removed without completely unbolting the pcm support bracket, etc.. from the body. In turn, I have to unbolt and fight with the clutch pedal and e-brake pedal assembly. Its a process. An aggravating time consuming one.

I also called Dp this morning, and they don't think it sounds like a chip failure; although they also suggested pulling it.

The PCM relay sounds like a plausible possibility. Where exactly is that one, and does anyone have a part#? As long as its not stupid expensive, I'll just replace it, rather then messing around with swapping it for something else.
Originally Posted by carguy3j View Post
I just went on a test run, and to run errands. Sure enough, after about 30 minutes of run time, it did it again. This time I had Torque Pro running. I just slapped together a quick setup, and I'm sure I didn't really get it configured 100%, but I got enough to see that it wasn't really useful in finding this problem. The only things that may be a clue is that the tach was not readable by TP at first, but later was after I sprayed the pcm with freon. Also, when the truck is a no start, TP gauges freeze, and it has no PCM connection.

So, I JUST barely coasted into the auto parts store parking lot. I swapped the blower and pcm relay, and ran the truck at high idle. No change. The blower works fine, and the truck still stalls.

I jiggled all the under dash wires I could get my hands on. Nothing triggered the stall. It just happens.

Once it got to a no start condition, I tried unplugging the ICP sensor. No change, still no start.

I did notice that the pcm is very warm. I wouldn't call it hot, as it is not uncomfortable or burn the skin level. But, definitely much warmer then anything else around it. No, I did not have the heat on.
So, I went inside the store. They did not carry any "canned air", so I got the idea to use R134 and an open nozzle. So I bought a can of straight refrigerant with no oil in it.
I sprayed the pcm case until it was cold.

The truck started right up and drove fine until I got home; at which point the pcm was getting warm again.

So, does this point to a bad PCM? Is it not normal for the PCM to be warm after running for a while?

Its supposed to rain here the next couple of days. If it does not, then I will pull the chip and go on a test drive.
Disclaimer: This is probably going to come out blunt especially in text verses in person. I mean No disrespect but it's going to suck if your stubbornness regarding the chip is the problem.

Out side the box, this is what I'm hearing...
You're dealing with a real PITA issue, I feel your pain!! But your also complaining about the PITA process of removing the chip... I had to remove my PCM a dozen times last summer because of problems with it and my chip. Yeah, it's a pain, it's not that big of a pain though. The first couple of times 30 minutes, by the time I was done-10 minutes out and back in! 1/4" extensions and universal joint socket adapter make the job easier on the engine side.

Alright, I just watched a video of the S&B installation on a 7.3, you have approximately the same room I have with my Ford AIS intake. I was able to weasel my big hand straight down by the master cylinder and make it work without having to remove anything! So it's not as much work as you're making it out to be. I also had to remove the cover under the dash because my cover was cut and I taped it up. It wasn't easy but it's doable. I find it helpful if I start swearing right from the start, it seems to keep me calm and objective.


Electrical shorts create heat, you're PCM is getting warm, your Chip creates an electrical connection...what does your gut say??

Good luck,
 
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  #32  
Old 09-04-2017, 08:03 PM
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Ok, so its looking like it might be the stupid chip.......

I still refuse to deal with the S&B or removing the PCM. So, I got the Dremel out and carefully cut more out the plastic PCM box, until I was able to remove the chip.

I went on a drive, with the chip in and set to 80DD. I drove it until it exhibited the stutter>no start. The PCM felt hot. I immediately pulled the chip, and the truck started right up. I left it that way and went on my way. I did not experience another stumble or no start. However, I also didn't drive that far, and the truck did have some time to sit while I was in Walmart. So, I guess I'm not 100% confident I have found the problem, due to a lack of adequate testing. But, I think it is definitely looking that way.

I looked as best I could, and the J3 connectors on the PCM appear to be in good condition ( silver, no copper showing). Before installing a new chip I will clean them with alcohol, and maybe go over the traces with a silver trace repair pen. Any thoughts on that plan?

As a side note: The truck runs like real dog poop with no chip. The throttle is super twitchy and weird. Shifting is not fun. I also expect driving this thing in bumper-to-bumper traffic is going to be a real challenge.
 
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  #33  
Old 09-05-2017, 08:30 AM
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The first step in trouble shooting anything other than an obvious mechanical fault, is removing the chip in the PCM or setting it to stock sometimes works. Set the truck back to a known good working platform. Move forward from there.

I am glad you probably found the issue and have a way forward.
 
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  #34  
Old 09-13-2017, 09:31 AM
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Just to follow up/conclude things: It would appear that it was in fact the chip. I drove for several days with no chip. The problem disappeared. I have driven with the new Hydra installed for several days. Again, the stutter/stall/no start has NOT re-appeared.

When I installed the new Hydra, I looked again at the PCM contacts. They were definitely silver, with no copper showing. I ran an alcohol soaked q-tip over them and got some black residue off ( possible silver oxidation?) I then lightly buffed both sides with the small scotchbrite pad supplied with the Hydra, and re-cleaned again. That is all I did.
 
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  #35  
Old 09-13-2017, 11:04 AM
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Thanks for checking back with the fix! Your experience will help the next guy.
 
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  #36  
Old 09-13-2017, 11:37 AM
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You said you cut some plastic away around where the chip attaches. Word of warning: If the chip comes out or even partially out while driving you will be more than likely buying a new PCM. Be sure to secure it in if the plastic behind the chip has been removed.

Glad you you figured out the problem.

Good luck!
 
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