1996 Explorer Radio Volume
#1
#2
Does the display look normal, or is that dim? Cracked solder joints are a rather common issue with older car stereos, so if the volume is your only concern, opening the deck and reflowing questionable solder joints is a good plan. If the display is also having an issue, then replacing the electrolytic capacitors in the power supply and display board is a good idea.
-Rod
-Rod
#3
Display is perfect. When I turn the volume up, the little lines (-------) go up and go down when turned down. When vehicle is cold, I get no volume but I leave it turned up and it slowly becomes louder as the car warms up. I am in Phoenix Az, so does not get too cold here.
Thank you for your help..
Thank you for your help..
#5
#7
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#9
It does appear that your 1996 with the changer and subwoofer has a remote amplifier for the door speakers and another amplifier for the subwoofer.
To 49f68canadian's point, maybe your volume concerns are due to only the front speakers working at first, then the rear kick in later. If that's the case, it should be an easy theory to test and should also quickly narrow down your search. Similarly, could it be that the subwoofer isn't working at first and then kicks in later?
If all speakers are working and it's definitely a volume issue, and the subwoofer volume tracks with the speaker volume correctly, then the issue almost has to be in the head unit. If the subwoofer volume does not track with the speaker volume, then my first suspicion would be the remote amplifier for the door speakers. You might be able to narrow down whether or not the subwoofer volume tracks by just turning the bass all the way down while troubleshooting.
-Rod
To 49f68canadian's point, maybe your volume concerns are due to only the front speakers working at first, then the rear kick in later. If that's the case, it should be an easy theory to test and should also quickly narrow down your search. Similarly, could it be that the subwoofer isn't working at first and then kicks in later?
If all speakers are working and it's definitely a volume issue, and the subwoofer volume tracks with the speaker volume correctly, then the issue almost has to be in the head unit. If the subwoofer volume does not track with the speaker volume, then my first suspicion would be the remote amplifier for the door speakers. You might be able to narrow down whether or not the subwoofer volume tracks by just turning the bass all the way down while troubleshooting.
-Rod
#10
R
It does appear that your 1996 with the changer and subwoofer has a remote amplifier for the door speakers and another amplifier for the subwoofer.
To 49f68canadian's point, maybe your volume concerns are due to only the front speakers working at first, then the rear kick in later. If that's the case, it should be an easy theory to test and should also quickly narrow down your search. Similarly, could it be that the subwoofer isn't working at first and then kicks in later?
If all speakers are working and it's definitely a volume issue, and the subwoofer volume tracks with the speaker volume correctly, then the issue almost has to be in the head unit. If the subwoofer volume does not track with the speaker volume, then my first suspicion would be the remote amplifier for the door speakers. You might be able to narrow down whether or not the subwoofer volume tracks by just turning the bass all the way down while troubleshooting.
-Rod
To 49f68canadian's point, maybe your volume concerns are due to only the front speakers working at first, then the rear kick in later. If that's the case, it should be an easy theory to test and should also quickly narrow down your search. Similarly, could it be that the subwoofer isn't working at first and then kicks in later?
If all speakers are working and it's definitely a volume issue, and the subwoofer volume tracks with the speaker volume correctly, then the issue almost has to be in the head unit. If the subwoofer volume does not track with the speaker volume, then my first suspicion would be the remote amplifier for the door speakers. You might be able to narrow down whether or not the subwoofer volume tracks by just turning the bass all the way down while troubleshooting.
-Rod
Ok, I think I understand. I will test, probably on Tues. Thank you for your help.
#11
#12
Since it's both right speakers, it's probably not an issue with the wiring to the doors. Seems suspicious that it is either an issue with the amplifier or within the head unit. Short of getting in there with an oscilloscope and probing signals, it's going to be a bit tricky to confidently troubleshoot.
-Rod
-Rod
#13
96 Explorer radio issue
Well, I am finally getting back to this problem. I totalled my Windstar when the ABS brakes failed so I am back to driving the Explorer. Are oscilloscopes easy to use. I found this on Amazon, Oscilloscope Multimeter, LIUMY Professional Handheld LED Scopemeter Oscilloscope Multimeter with 200ksps A/D Automatic Waveform Capture Function, DC/AC Voltage /Current, Resistance Test with Backlight. Will I be able to self diagnose the problem with this multimeter? Mind you, I already have a different multimeter and all I know how to do with it is test batteries.
Thank you for all help..
Andrea
Thank you for all help..
Andrea
#14
Well, if the oscilloscope has an "Autoset" button they can be pretty easy to use. Since you have some speakers that are getting decent signal, you could autoset when connected to those while playing music, then move over to the suspect speakers to see if they have a signal of the same amplitude. Both of these steps would require removing door panels though and getting to the speaker wiring. I suppose the more cost effective approach would be to swap speakers from left to right and see if the issue follows the speaker or the door. The challenge then might be if it stays with the door, the oscilloscope would be very useful for tracing backwards toward the deck to determine where the signal gets attenuated.
-Rod
-Rod
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